Why The Cartier Roadster Matters Now

The Cartier Roadster made its debut in 2002. It was an interesting collection with a design that was not a historical reinterpretation, a type of watch that Cartier very successfully and very often issues.

The original Cartier Roadsters incorporated “masculine” functions like GMT/second time zone and a chronograph that came out one year after launch in 2003. A limited edition was even dedicated to former Formula 1 world champion Emerson Fittipaldi. At the time, and even for years after, the Cartier Roadster was something of a Hollywood watch, but not only worn by its intended audience (men); female celebrities such as Jennifer Aniston and Kristen Wiig have also been spotted wearing the Cartier Roadster.

This may go a long way to explaining why the Cartier Roadster was discontinued only 11 years after its launch, in 2013. In the modern era, Cartier has consistently been on the lookout for its “perfect” male watch, one that largely appeals to the more masculine side of watch wearers and is primarily bought and worn by men.

Five years later, in 2007, Cartier launched the Ballon Bleu with its uniquely integrated crown, hoping it would fill this gap in the collection. But, alas, it was also adopted for wear by equally as many, if not more, women. However, the Ballon Bleu has been successful enough in terms of sales that it still graces the permanent collection.

Then there was 2016’s Drive de Cartier, which also did not end up filling the need management had thought it would. In terms of design, the Drive de Cartier fits between the sporty Roadster and the brand’s numerous more classic vintage pieces.

The Cartier Roadster of 2002

© Courtesy of Elizabeth Dorr

The Cartier Roadster speeds down a different highway of timepieces than almost all other Cartier watches. Its eye-catching shape might seem familiar at first since it is not dissimilar to Cartier’s popular Tortue line, and its shape is accentuated by interesting details. Although the watch was of stately dimensions at just about 38 x 42 mm, as befit the style in 2002, it had a sophisticated feel thanks to the sleek lines of the bezel that cleanly follow the rounded curves of the case. The case architecture, inspired by the world of automobiles, displayed its strength most in the crown area: functioning as perfect flank protection, the region surrounding the screw-in crown assured both water-resistance and offered a sensual three-dimensionality, not unlike the curve in the hood of a sports car. The brushed sunray pattern and the railroad minute scale offered more than just beautiful dial design; they suggested movement and speed.

The original Cartier Roadster was powered by a relatively run-of-the-mill ETA 2892-A2 base movement but contained a few fun details like the shiny chrome-plated rotor coated with ruthenium to become a matte grey. This was certainly a fun element at the time of its release.

The real novelty for 2002 was that this watch offered an interchangeable system to remove and reattach the bracelet and strap. Seen for the first time in a men’s watch, the Cartier Roadster thus adapted to suit the (male) wearer’s mood perfectly. The watch was available in stainless steel with a choice of three dial designs and came with both strap and steel bracelet. The yellow gold version came with three different straps; and the owner of the gold version on bracelet also received a black alligator-skin strap.

And now in 2026, the Cartier Roadster comes back

© Courtesy of Elizabeth Dorr

This is the first time Cartier has brought back a watch that was born in the 2000s.

After a 14-year absence, the Cartier Roadster made its comeback in April 2026 in seven different variations and two sizes. While this watch continues to offer a distinctive tonneau-shaped, Tortue-like case, its distinctive magnifying glass over the date window at 3 o’clock,and that unusual bump that the magnifying glass morphs into as it edges toward the elongated crown, along with many other details, have been updated for today’s consumer.

One is the movement: while an ETA movement with a personalized rotor powered the original, Cartier has reached into its bag of manufacture calibers this time. The large Cartier Roadster is powered by Caliber 1847 MC, while the medium variation takes Caliber 1899 MC as its engine.

Another is the refined case specs, 47 x 38 x 10.06 in the large size, which comes in throwback two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel; yellow gold; and stainless steel.

The medium-sized model, which measures 42.5 x 34.9 x 9.7 mm, comes in the same case metal variations. All of the dials are sportily outfitted with Super-LumiNova.

The new bracelet has been updated with polished central links and brushed outer links. And, of course, it comes with Cartier’s QuickSwitch system, which allows the owner to quickly and easily exchange the bracelet to the included alligator skin straps and rubber strap (large steel model). This is now pretty standard throughout the luxury watch industry, and it makes a lot of sense. But it is nice to remember that Cartier already did it for this model back in 2002, even if back then it was a simple pin system.

Why now?

This launch may have been unexpected, but it is not unwelcome. There has been a definite renewed interest in Cartier’s neo-vintage watches, with some focus on highly shaped models like the Crash, which have been bringing in high results at auction. But perhaps tellingly, it seems to me that Cartier has been working its ambassador program hard, with many of their celebrities (ambassadors, friends of the brand) wearing vintage, neo-vintage, and shaped watches to high-profile events. This has helped to create a lot of consumer interest (and there is indeed some collector nostalgia surrounding the Cartier Roadster).

Cartier regularly dips into its historical files for inspiration, and reissuing a past model is not new. What is new is doing it with a watch that only came out after the turn of the millennium.

Cartier CEO Louis Ferla, who I know well from his time as CEO at Vacheron Constantin, is a shrewd businessman and has a keen eye on the market. I would be sure that Ferla has recognized that the time is right to bring out a reissued Cartier Roadster now, with Cartier at the height of its powers as perhaps the most consistently solidly performing brand in the watch space at Richemont in the turbulent past couple of years.

Ferla understands the market like few others. And this unexpected move might prove to be the right thing for the Cartier Roadster, which was never really forgotten. The surprise definitely works in Cartier’s favor.

People always look for sure things in times of instability. An iconic brand bringing a relatively popular past design back is sure to please and sure to be viewed as a sure thing.

And, finally, what also works in its favor is that Ferla has seemingly decided to stop the continuous Cartier obsession over what is a men’s watch and what is a watch for women. This, I believe, could be the biggest contributor to its success. In today’s age of everyone and anyone collecting “neo-vintage,” this could be a perfect move.