Like all of its sibling brands that make up the Richemont Group’s watchmaking division, IWC also announced its novelties for 2020 via the Watches & Wonders digital rollout. This year, IWC chose to focus on expanding the Portugieser collection with new models, ranging from straightforward time-only models to sporty water-ready watches to high-complication timepieces. Here are some of the highlights from the new IWC Portugieser range for 2020.
New IWC Portugieser Automatic 40
Drawing inspiration from the original IWC Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939, the new Portugieser Automatic 40 combines a new case size and movement to great effect. Like the very first model named after the two Portuguese businessmen who requested wristwatches with the precision of a marine chronometer, the new IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 features a minimalistic dial layout comprised of Arabic numeral indexes, a chapter ring, a pair of hands at center, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
While the exterior of the watch retains an aesthetic that can be directly linked to one established 80 years ago, inside the compact 40.4mm (12.4mm thick) case is the new in-house Caliber 82200, complete with the famed Pellaton winding system. Offering users a 60-hour power reserve, the new IWC automatic movement can be seen through the sapphire caseback.
IWC currently offers the new Portugieser Automatic 40 in steel with a choice of three different dials or in pink gold – but we wouldn’t be surprised if this particular Portugieser model ends up welcoming plenty of new styles over the next few years.
New IWC Portugieser Chronograph
As far as elegant chronographs go, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph has been one of the best in the business since the 1990s. Earlier this year, IWC announced that an in-house movement, the Caliber 69355, would now power its flagship 41mm chronograph, which of course is visible through a sapphire caseback.
For the online Watches & Wonders 2020 release, IWC unveiled three new Portugieser Chronograph models with vibrant dial shades to expand the range – a steel version with a green dial, a steel version with a burgundy dial, and a pink gold version with blue dial – to bring the total to nine current references.
Despite the vibrant colors, the new dials still retain the beloved layout of the Portugieser Chronograph comprising of two sub-dials at 6 and 12, along with the familiar Arabic numerals for hour markers.
New IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42
With its trimmed-down diameter, streamlined dial, and new steel option, IWC’s famous perpetual calendar complication is now accessible to a wider audience in the form of the brand new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 model.
The 42.4mm case size is significantly smaller on the wrist than the 44.2mm size typical of Portugieser Perpetual Calendar watches thanks in part to the simplified and slimmer automatic movement (Caliber 82650), which replaces the usual 7-day power reserve in favor of a 60-hour one and forgoes a few indicators found on the larger versions.
The reworked cleaner dial now includes a trio of sub-dials – day, date combined with leap year indication, month combined with moon phase – all set from the winding crown as Kurt Klaus had originally invented in 1985. In addition to the pink gold versions customary to the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar lineup, IWC now offers buyers the option of stainless steel.
New IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph
The sportiest iteration of the Portugieser, the Yacht Club Chronograph model has been around since 2010. Ten years later, IWC is now releasing the third generation of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with larger cases, a revamped dial, and a new integrated-style (but still attached with lugs) bracelet.
Available in steel or two-tone steel and rose gold, this 44mm flyback chronograph is water-resistant to 60 meters and powered by the in-house Caliber 82835, which is observable through the sapphire caseback. The duo of sub-dials is placed at 6 and 12, where the date window is set into the running seconds register at the bottom and the elapsed minutes and hours of the central chronograph hand together up top.
In addition to these new IWC Portugieser Watches for 2020, the brand also added new high horology complications to the collection including the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph and the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. As such, IWC illustrates that whether for vintage-inspired everyday timepieces, sporty luxury watches, or haute horlogerie creations, the venerable Portugieser lineup offers something for almost every type of watch enthusiast.
*All images courtesy of IWC