Rolex Reference Number Guide

Have a Rolex reference number and want to know what it means? You’re in the right place. Rolex model numbers might look random at first, but there’s a clear system behind them. In this guide, we’ll break down how to read any modern reference, from model family and case material to bezel type and more. But before we dive in, let’s decode yours.

Rolex Reference Number Guide: Understand Every Code

So you’ve decided to buy a Rolex watch – Congratulations! That means you’re either about to join the Rolex owners club or move one step closer to the throne as an existing member that has just added to their ever-growing collection.

That’s where this guide comes in. Below, we’ll break down the structure of modern Rolex reference numbers and explain what all those letters and digits mean – from bezel types to case materials and gem-set indicators.

Let’s start with a popular example: 126710BLRO. If that looks familiar, it’s because it belongs to the Rolex GMT-Master II with the red and blue “Pepsi” bezel, black dial, and Jubilee bracelet – one of the most recognizable modern models in Rolex’s catalog.

That wasn’t always the case, though. Earlier Rolex models often had just four digits, like the legendary GMT-Master 1675, a favorite among vintage collectors. These shorter reference numbers were common until Rolex gradually transitioned to longer, six-digit formats starting in the early 2000s.

Today, most modern references – like 126710BLRO – include six digits plus a letter code to indicate features like bezel color or crystal type. So, what do those numbers and letters actually mean? Let’s break it down.

Rolex Model Codes

The vast majority of modern Rolex reference numbers begin with either a “1” or a “2.” This leading digit can offer clues about a model’s generation, but it’s not always definitive. For example, Rolex has steadily transitioned newer models to start with a “2,” while some collections – like the Sky-Dweller, Pearlmaster, and Cellini – follow their own numbering conventions.

More important are the three digits that follow, which typically identify the watch’s model family. While Rolex has never officially published this system, collectors have recognized consistent patterns over the years. Here’s a quick reference:

3-Digit Code | Collection / Model Family
124 | Explorer
126 / 116 | Datejust
140 | Submariner (no date)
166 | Submariner Date (5-digit era)
168 | Submariner Date (precious metals)
165 | Explorer II or Daytona*
162 | Datejust 36 (older models)
167 | GMT-Master / GMT-Master II
214 | Milgauss
226 | Sea-Dweller / Deepsea
268 | Lady-Datejust / Pearlmaster
278 | Datejust 31
279 | Lady-Datejust 28
326 | Sky-Dweller

* While the Rolex Daytona and Explorer II both use the “165” family code, they’re distinguished by the number that comes before it: Explorer II references begin with “2” (like 216570), while Daytona references begin with “1” (like 116500). That prefix is key to telling them apart.

Keep in mind that some family codes – especially for Submariner, Datejust, and GMT models – have evolved over time or vary by case material. The list above reflects the most commonly used identifiers for modern six-digit references.

Rolex Bezel Codes

The next number in the sequence will tell you the bezel type (so that’s the fifth number). Bezel types are coded in the following way:

0: Smooth

1: Rotating

2: Engraved

3: Fluted

4: Gem-set

6: Rotating (again)

7: Various

Rolex Metal Codes

Following the bezel style, another single digit (the very last one) expresses the type of metal (or metals) from which the watch and bracelet are crafted. The codes are as follows:

0: Stainless steel

1: Everose Rolesor (steel & Everose gold)

2: Rolesium (steel & Platinum)

3: Yellow Rolesor (steel & yellow gold)

4: White Rolesor (steel & white gold)

5: Everose (Rolex’s proprietary pink gold)

6: Platinum

8: Yellow gold

9: White gold

Understanding the Letters in Rolex Reference Numbers

The letters in modern Rolex reference numbers have always bothered many collectors. They look so much like they stand for something obvious, and if you’ve ever had that feeling, you’ll be glad to know you were correct! The letters in Rolex references are actually abbreviations for French words.

As a Geneva-based company, French is the official language of Rolex. Therefore, if you know a few French words – namely colors, gems, and a small handful of watch components – the Rolex reference numbers’ letters will be quite a bit easier to understand.

Bleu: Blue

Brillants: Faceted diamonds

Chocolat: Chocolate (aka brown)

Emeraude: Emerald

Glace: Window (aka crystal)

Jaune: Yellow

Lunette: Bezel

Noir: Black

Rouge: Red

Rubis: Ruby

Saphirs: Sapphire

Vert: Green

Rolex Letter Codes

With that handy dictionary in hand, the following popular Rolex reference codes will now make quite a bit more sense to you:

Code | French Meaning | Description / Where It’s Found
BLRO | Bleu/Rouge | Blue and red bezel (e.g., GMT-Master II “Pepsi”)
BLNR | Bleu/Noir | Blue and black bezel (e.g., GMT-Master II “Batman”)
CHNR | Chocolat/Noir | Brown and black bezel (e.g., GMT-Master II Root Beer)
GRNR | Gris/Noir | Gray and black bezel (e.g., GMT-Master II 126713GRNR)
GV | Glace Verte | Green sapphire crystal (e.g., Milgauss 116400GV)
LB | Lunette Bleu | Blue bezel (e.g., Submariner Date 126619LB)
LN | Lunette Noir | Black bezel (e.g., Submariner 126610LN, GMT 116710LN)
LV | Lunette Verte | Green bezel (e.g., Submariner “Hulk” 116610LV, “Starbucks” 126610LV)

Gem-Set Rolex Watch Codes

When it comes to gem-set Rolex watches, we have to dive back into the past to find a few more working examples of what the following letter codes mean. It is always worth having this list as a reference point because some of these letter codes drift in and out of Rolex’s catalog depending on which ultra-exclusive models the brand is producing in any given year.

If at any point you get lost in some of the Rolex terminology, you can always reference our complete Rolex glossary guide. Additionally, you will also see them on a number of vintage and pre-owned Rolex watches, and knowing exactly what they mean will significantly help you with your search.

Code | French Meaning | Description / Example Model
TBR | Tessellate Brillants | Diamond-set (e.g., Daytona 116576TBR)
TEM | Tessellate Émeraude | Emerald-set (e.g., Day-Date 40 228396TEM)
SABLV | Saphirs Bleu Vert | Blue & green sapphires (e.g., Pearlmaster 86348SABLV)
SABR | Saphirs, Brillants | Sapphires & diamonds (e.g., Submariner 116659SABR)
SACO | Saphirs Cognac | Cognac-colored sapphires (e.g., Daytona 116598SACO)
SAFUBL | Saphirs Fuchsia Bleu | Fuchsia & blue sapphires (e.g., Pearlmaster 86349SAFUBL)
SAJOR | Saphirs Jaune Orange | Yellow & orange sapphires (e.g., Pearlmaster 86348SAJOR)
SANR | Saphirs Noir | Black sapphires (e.g., GMT-Master II 116759SANR)
SARU | Saphirs, Rubis | Sapphires & rubies (e.g., GMT-Master II 116759SARU)

Making Sense of Rolex References

Now that you know how to read Rolex references, identifying a model’s collection, case material, bezel type, and dial features becomes second nature. Whether you’re decoding a six-digit modern reference or spotting gem-set letter codes, the system is far more logical than it first appears.

At Bob’s Watches, we specialize in helping collectors, first-time buyers, and enthusiasts navigate the world of Rolex. Ready to put your knowledge to use? Explore our curated collection of Rolex watches for sale and find the perfect model with confidence.