{"id":38791,"date":"2020-08-21T01:01:16","date_gmt":"2020-08-21T08:01:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bobswatches.com\/rolex-blog\/?p=38791"},"modified":"2020-09-01T11:37:22","modified_gmt":"2020-09-01T18:37:22","slug":"rolex-submariner-bezels-ultimate-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bobswatches.com\/rolex-blog\/watch-101\/rolex-submariner-bezels-ultimate-guide.html","title":{"rendered":"Rolex Submariner Bezels Ultimate Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Rolex Submariner has been a part of the brand’s catalog for well over 60 years, and it is often said that the Submariner is the archetype of the modern dive watch. While the Rolex Submariner was not the absolute first dive watch ever created, it has served as the blueprint for underwater timepieces for over half a century, and virtually all dive watches in existence today were in some way influenced by the design and features of the original Rolex Submariner<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner Bezel Types & Evolution<\/h2>\n

Easily among the most famous and recognizable Rolex watches ever created, the Submariner has an overall design that has remained largely unchanged throughout the years. However,\u00a0the famed Rolex dive watch has undergone plenty of design and mechanical enhancements over the past six decades, including a number of updates and improvements to its all-important rotating timing bezel. Read on to discover all the different types of bezels of the Rolex Submariner.<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner<\/h3>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

Key Features:<\/h4>\n

Case Diameter:<\/strong> 40mm
\nMaterials:<\/strong> Stainless Steel, Yellow Rolesor (steel and gold), 18k Yellow Gold, 18k White Gold
\nFeatures:<\/strong> Time + running seconds; date complication (Submariner Date models)
\nBezel:<\/strong> 60-minute rotating timing bezel
\nCrystal:<\/strong> Sapphire Movement: Cal. 3130; Cal. 3135 (Submariner Date)
\nWater Resistance:<\/strong> 300 meters \/ 1,000 feet
\nBracelet:<\/strong> Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock safety clasp<\/p>\n

Click here to learn more about the very first Rolex Submariner.<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Shop<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

The Evolution of the Rolex Submariner Bezel<\/h2>\n

The bezel on a dive watch is designed to allow divers to keep track of elapsed time while they are underwater. To use the Submariner’s bezel, simply rotate the bezel to align the inverted triangle with the minute hand just before a dive (or any other event you want to time). Then, as time elapses, look at where the minute hand is pointing to on the bezel (which is graduated to 60 minutes) and that’ll tell you how many minutes have passed.<\/p>\n

Like all Rolex watches, the Submariner has, of course, evolved over the years – particularly in regards to the design of its bezel. Over the course of the Submariner’s history, Rolex has used both bidirectional and unidirectional bezels. Furthermore, Rolex has also used aluminum inserts and Cerachraom (the brand’s proprietary ceramic alloy) inserts for the Submariner’s bezel. Below is a general overview of the various Submariner bezel types used throughout the last 67 years. Note that there is some overlap in years between the aluminum inserts and the ceramic inserts since new Submariner models with Cerachrom bezels were introduced over the course of a four-year period.<\/p>\n

1953 \u2013 1979<\/strong> \u2013 Bidirectional rotating bezels with aluminum inserts<\/p>\n

1979 \u2013 2012<\/strong> \u2013 Unidirectional rotating bezels with aluminum inserts<\/p>\n

2008 \u2013 Present<\/strong> \u2013 Unidirectional rotating bezels with Cerachrom inserts<\/p>\n

Rolex has also tweaked the way that the Submariner bezels have displayed their 60-minute scales. While every Rolex Submariner bezel includes an inverted triangle at 0\/60, batons at 5\/15\/25\/35\/45\/55, and Arabic numerals at 10\/20\/30\/40\/50, there have been some modifications in regards to the hash marks that are used to signify individual minutes.<\/p>\n

No hash marks<\/strong> \u2013 generally found on the earliest examples of vintage Submariners<\/p>\n

Hash marks for the first 15 minutes<\/strong> \u2013 first appeared around 1957 on some references. Still used today on current Submariners<\/p>\n

Hash marks throughout the bezel<\/strong> \u2013 Military-issued “MilSub” Submariners only<\/p>\n

Some vintage Rolex Submariner references have a red inverted triangle on the bezel to mark the 0\/60 minute location. Over the years, the red coloring was prone to fading, and certain vintage Submariner watches that originally had red triangle bezel inserts now appear to have standard black and silver ones. Additionally, due to their short period of production, surviving red triangle bezels are now highly prized by collectors. Below is a list of some of the Rolex Submariner references that can be found with red triangle bezel inserts.<\/p>\n

Submariner 6536\/1<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 Some examples had them and some did not<\/p>\n

Submariner 6538\u00a0\u2013\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Submariner 5510\u00a0\u2013\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Submariner 5508<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 Early examples only, eventually replaced with a silver triangle<\/p>\n

Submariner 5512<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 Early examples only, eventually replaced with a silver triangle<\/p>\n

Although the original Submariner models only came with black bezels, when Rolex introduced a solid yellow gold reference in the late 1960s, a blue-colored bezel (and dial) became an option on the brand’s dive watch for the very first time. The Rolex Submariner has benefitted from three different colored bezels through its history. However, these bezel colors are not available across all case materials.<\/p>\n

Black\u00a0Submariner bezels<\/strong> \u2013 Stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel\/yellow gold cases only<\/p>\n

Blue\u00a0Submariner bezels<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 White gold, yellow gold, two-tone steel\/yellow gold cases only<\/p>\n

Green\u00a0Submariner bezels<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 Stainless steel cases only<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner models that offer more than one bezel color option will typically have letters at the end of the reference numbers to denote the color of the bezel. These letters are abbreviations of French words, which translate to the following:<\/p>\n

LN<\/strong> = Lunette Noir<\/em> = Black Bezel<\/p>\n

LB<\/strong> = Lunette Bleu<\/em> \u2013 Blue Bezel<\/p>\n

LV<\/strong> \u2013 Lunette Verte<\/em> \u2013 Green Bezel<\/p>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner Bidirectional Bezels With Aluminum Inserts<\/h2>\n

When Rolex debuted the Submariner in 1953, the stainless steel dive watch included a rotating bezel marked to 60 minutes to allow divers to track immersion times. The steel bezel turned both ways for simple timing and adjustment, the edge of the bezel was knurled for easy gripping underwater, and the insert was fashioned from anodized black aluminum.<\/p>\n

The printed 60-minute scale on the earlier versions included markings for every 5 minutes, alternating between batons and Arabic numerals. By the late 1950s, Rolex started to include hash marks for the first 15 minutes on the bezel to facilitate a more precise reading, followed by 5-minute markings for the rest of it.<\/p>\n

Around 1969, Rolex introduced the first yellow gold Submariner, the Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680\/8. Accordingly, the knurled rotating bezel ring was fashioned from 18k yellow gold. Additionally, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680\/8 now offered the choice of a black or blue aluminum bezel insert.<\/p>\n

Submariner References With Bidirectional Aluminum Bezels<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Reference<\/strong><\/td>\nApproximate Production Dates<\/strong><\/td>\nCase Material<\/strong><\/td>\nBezel<\/strong><\/td>\nHash Marks<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 6204<\/td>\n1953<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nNone<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 6205<\/td>\n1954<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nNone<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 6200<\/td>\n1955 \u2013 1956<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nNone<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 6538<\/td>\n1956 \u2013 1959<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nNone or First 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 6536\/1<\/td>\n1956 \u2013 1958<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nNone or First 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5510<\/td>\n1958<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5508<\/td>\n1958 \u2013 1962<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5512<\/td>\n1959 \u2013 1980<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5513<\/td>\n1962 \u2013 1989<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5513 Milsub<\/td>\n1972 \u2013 1976<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nAll the way around<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 5514 COMEX<\/td>\n1972 \u2013 1978<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 1680<\/td>\n1969 \u2013 1979<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 1680\/8<\/td>\n1969 – 1979<\/td>\n18k Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Aluminum<\/td>\nFirst 15-Minute<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner Unidirectional Bezels With Aluminum Inserts<\/h2>\n

While bidirectional rotating bezels may be easier for wearers to quickly turn to the appropriate spot, in terms of their function as a dive bezel, it’s not the best option. If the bezel gets accidentally knocked, this could cause divers to miscalculate how long they have been underwater. Therefore, a unidirectional bezel is more prudent because any accidental knocks to the bezel can only result in overestimating immersion time \u2014 it’s better to take an unnecessary safety stop on your way to the surface, rather than being under the impression that you do not need to take one and suffering from decompression sickness as a result.<\/p>\n

Rolex began equipping the Submariner with unidirectional bezels starting with the Submariner Date ref. 16800, which was first introduced around 1979. With that in mind, the classic, no-date Submariner model did not receive a unidirectional bezel until 1990 with the introduction of the Rolex Submariner ref. 14060.<\/p>\n

Like the previous generation, the new unidirectional bezels included anodized aluminum bezel inserts. In 1983, Rolex introduced the first two-tone Submariner model in the form of the Submariner Date ref. 16803, which sported a yellow gold knurled bezel ring fitted with a black or blue aluminum insert. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner in 2003, Rolex introduced the stainless steel Submariner Date ref. 16610LV with a green bezel insert (also crafted from anodized aluminum).<\/p>\n

Submariner References With Unidirectional Aluminum Bezels<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Reference<\/strong><\/td>\nApproximate Production Dates<\/strong><\/td>\nCase Material<\/strong><\/td>\nBezel<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16800<\/td>\n1979 \u2013 1988<\/td>\nStainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16808<\/td>\n1979 \u2013 1988<\/td>\n18k Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16803<\/td>\n1983 \u2013 1988<\/td>\nTwo-Tone Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 168000<\/td>\n1987 \u2013 1988<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16610<\/td>\n1988 \u2013 2010<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack or Green Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16618<\/td>\n1988 \u2013 2008<\/td>\n18k Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 16613<\/td>\n1988 \u2013 2009<\/td>\nTwo-Tone Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 14060<\/td>\n1990 \u2013 1998<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 14060M<\/td>\n1998 \u2013 2012<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel<\/td>\nBlack Aluminum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner Unidirectional Bezels With Cerachrom Inserts<\/h2>\n

In 2008, Rolex introduced the first Submariner models equipped with unidirectional bezels featuring Cerachrom inserts. Cerachrom is Rolex\u2019s proprietary ceramic alloy that is not only highly resistant to scratching but also virtually impervious to fading. The 60-minute graduations are engraved into the bezel and then the ceramic bezel insert is fully coated with either 18k yellow gold (for yellow gold and two-tone models) or 950 platinum (for white gold or steel models). The gold\/platinum is then polished away from the ceramic surface until only the recessed numerals and markings are left with the precious metal filling.<\/p>\n

By 2012, Rolex had rolled out the new Cerachrom bezels across all Submariner models, replacing the previous generation of aluminum bezel inserts entirely. Additionally, color options for Rolex’s new ceramic bezels include black, blue, and green, and all of these are current-production Rolex Submariner models.<\/p>\n

Submariner References With Unidirectional Cerachrom Bezels<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Reference<\/strong><\/td>\nIntroduction Year<\/strong><\/td>\nCase Material<\/strong><\/td>\nBezel<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 116619<\/td>\n2008<\/td>\n18k White Gold<\/td>\nBlue Cerachrom<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 116618<\/td>\n2008<\/td>\n18k Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Cerachrom<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 116613<\/td>\n2009<\/td>\nTwo-Tone Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold<\/td>\nBlack or Blue Cerachrom<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner Date 116610<\/td>\n2010<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel aka Oystersteel<\/td>\nBlack or Green Cerachrom<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Submariner 114060<\/td>\n2012<\/td>\n904L Stainless Steel aka Oystersteel<\/td>\nBlack Cerachrom<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Rolex Submariner Gem-Set Bezels<\/h3>\n

Although the rotating bezel serves to measure elapsed time while diving, this has not stopped Rolex from making a few ultra-lavish Submariner watches with precious gem-set bezels that forsakes the original tool watch nature of the model. First, there\u2019s the white gold Submariner 116649 EMBR (presented in 2010) featuring a bezel set with 36 emeralds and 12 diamonds. Then in 2018, Rolex introduced the white gold Submariner 116659 SABR with a bezel set with nine light blue sapphires (to mimic the first 15-minute markings), 27 dark blue sapphires, and 12 diamonds (to mimic the 5-minute markings found on standard Rolex Submariner bezel inserts).<\/p>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n

Rolex Submariner Bezel Nicknames<\/h2>\n

Although the bezel of the Rolex Submariner has been black in color for most of the watch’s existence, the various colored options have picked up informal nicknames among members of the collecting community. The bezel of the Rolex Submariner is such a distinctive part of the watch\u2019s overall look that many of them have paved the way for now-ubiquitous Submariner nicknames.<\/p>\n

“Kermit”<\/strong> \u2013 Submariner ref. 16610LV with a green aluminum bezel<\/p>\n

“Hulk”<\/strong> \u2013 Submariner ref. 116610LV with a green Cerachrom bezel<\/p>\n

“Smurf”<\/strong> \u2013 Submariner ref. 116610LB with a blue Cerachrom bezel<\/p>\n

“Bluesy”<\/strong> \u2013 Submariner ref. 16803 and 16613 with a blue aluminum bezel or 116613LB with a blue Cerachrom bezel<\/p>\n

“Ghost”<\/strong> \u2013 Any vintage Submariner with highly faded aluminum bezels<\/p>\n

From bidirectional aluminum bezels to unidirectional aluminum bezels to today\u2019s high-tech Cerachrom bezel, the Rolex Submariner bezel has evolved significantly and steadily over the years. However, what has remained the same is the importance of the bezel – both to the overall look and functionality of the iconic Rolex Submariner.<\/p>\n

\"Rolex<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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