The Patek Philippe 5924 is a wonderful option for those looking for something a little out of the ordinary and a demonstration of the lengths to which Patek Philippe will go to push the envelope. The brand’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph features two desirable complications in one gorgeous package, made to stand out from other model lines the brand is known for. Patek Philippe goes above and beyond for every watch it makes, and the 5924g is no exception.
Key Takeaways:
- Dual Complications: The 5924g has both a flyback chronograph and a dual time zone function. Perfect for travelers and aviation enthusiasts.
- Bold Aesthetics: It features a white gold case and the option for either a sunburst blue-grey dial (ref: 5924g-001) or a lacquered khaki green dial (ref: 5924g-010).
- Exceptional Movement: The movement is a self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, the same caliber found in the Nautilus 5990.
- Collector’s Choice: Once a controversial watch, the 5924G has become a favorite among collectors for its mix of tradition and modern aesthetics.
This complete review of the Patek Philippe 5924g will aid both buyers and enthusiasts eager to explore what makes this watch such an exquisite piece. The 5924g is dissected from every angle, from its retro dial design elements to its highly complex movement functions.
The Evolution of the Patek Philippe Pilot Watch
Patek Philippe’s history in aviation watches is longer than many people think. The company produced a small series of “hour angle” watches in the 1930s for pilots using aerial navigation. This original Patek aviation collection served as the jumping off point for the current Calatrava Pilot collection.
The current lineup began in 2015 and it was the first major departure from the classic Patek aesthetic in recent memory. The new collection was controversial among collectors. Some people loved the new design direction, while others thought it was far too modern for Patek. The 5924g released later solved a lot of the early issues with this collection by addressing the proportions and dial legibility.
The 5924g adds a chronograph complication to the existing travel time complication. It creates a tool watch that provides useful information in an easy to read format. The watch has the signature Patek Philippe level of refinement and accuracy. Plus, it borrows design elements from early pilot watches with modern materials and techniques.
A Deep Dive into the Patek Philippe 5924g
In the world of luxury timepieces, the 5924g is truly a testament to Patek Philippe’s meticulous craftsmanship and design prowess. Each aspect of this watch, from its elegant case to its intricate movement, has been thoughtfully engineered to achieve balance. By taking a closer look at these elements, we can gain a deeper appreciation for the artistry and technical excellence embodied in the 5924g.
The Case: A Study in White Gold
The 5924g case is crafted from luxurious white gold and features a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 13.05mm. These dimensions are slightly on the larger side compared to traditional Patek Philippe watches, aligning the watch more with modern sports-luxury standards. However, this size is well-justified given the watch’s aviation-inspired aesthetic and the need to accommodate its complex dial layout.
Case Specifications:
- Material: 18k white gold with a combination of polished and brushed finishes
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 13.05mm
- Water Resistance: 30 meters (suitable for daily wear but not swimming)
- Lugs: Faceted design that catches light and adds visual interest
The screw-down crown is positioned at 3 o’clock and features a very secure seal, but is not hard to operate. To its left and right are two round pushers for the chronograph. At 8 and 10 o’clock are two recessed pushers for adjusting the second time zone. This pusher configuration takes a moment to get used to, but is quite intuitive.
The Dial: Legibility Meets Luxury
Patek Philippe offers the 5924g in two distinct dial variants. Reference 5924g-001 has a sunburst blue-grey dial with a grained texture that changes its appearance in different lighting. Reference 5924g-010 has a lacquered, military-inspired khaki green dial. Both dials have the same overall aesthetics and features. The hours are marked by applied gold Arabic numerals, which have been treated with luminescent material. The hands, which are gold and luminescent as well, ensure great legibility against either dial color. This focus on legibility is a nod to the watch’s pilot watch inspiration, where fast time reading can be essential.
Dial Features:
- Date Display: Positioned at 12 o’clock in an aperture format
- Chronograph Counter: A 60-minute totalizer sits at 6 o’clock, displaying elapsed time
- Day/Night Indicators: Two small apertures show whether it’s daytime or nighttime in both the local and home time zones
- Minute Track: A railroad-style track circles the dial perimeter for precise minute reading
The sub-dial at 6 o’clock serves double duty, displaying both the chronograph minutes and providing a visual balance to the date window above. The day/night indicators represented by sun and moon symbols will be especially beneficial for travelers across different time zones..
The Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS
Driving the 5924g is the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, a self-winding movement that was created by Patek Philippe especially for watches that offered the chronograph function in combination with a travel time feature. It’s also used in the Nautilus 5990.
| Feature | Specification |
| Caliber | CH 28-520 C FUS |
| Type | Self-winding mechanical |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph, dual time zone, date |
| Power Reserve | 45-55 hours |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Components | 370 parts |
| Jewels | 34 |
The movement uses a vertical clutch for the chronograph, which ensures smooth engagement and disengagement of the chronograph function. The chronograph is controlled by a column wheel, which is a traditional mechanism that is favored for its smooth, precise action and reliability. The chronograph also features a flyback function, which allows it to be reset and started again with a single press of the pusher, without having to stop it first. This is particularly useful for timing consecutive events.
The travel time mechanism is independent of the home time mechanism, so the user can adjust the local time forward or backward in one-hour increments, while the home time continues to run. The date automatically changes when the local time passes through midnight, and the day/night indicators are updated to reflect the current time in the home and local time zones. Finishing throughout the movement is of Patek Philippe Seal standards, of course, with Geneva striping on the bridges, beveled and polished edges, and polished screw heads on display through the sapphire caseback.
The Strap and Buckle
The 5924g features a hand-stitched calfskin leather strap in a color that complements the dial. The blue-grey dial is accompanied by a dark blue strap and the khaki green dial strap is olive green. Greenwas chosen to match the vintage look of the dial and case.
The strap is secured via a white gold clevis prong buckle. This is a design unique to the Calatrava Pilot collection of watches and is an homage to vintage aviation kits. The buckle provides a secure closure and the use of white gold helps the buckle match the case material.
Owners sometimes customize their 5924g with aftermarket straps and the 22mm lug width allows for many options. It wears comfortably on leather but the white gold case and aviation styling of the watch mean it’s usually only a dress-casual watch, rather than a true sports watch.
Patek 5924g vs. 5990: A Tale of Two Titans
It’s important to note that while the 5924g and the Nautilus 5990 share a movement, there’s some fundamental differences in these two timepieces beyond their caliber. Both watches offer the same combination of travel time and chronograph functions, but they speak to two different design aesthetics and collecting predilections.
| Feature | Patek Philippe 5924g | Patek Philippe 5990 |
| Collection | Calatrava Pilot | Nautilus |
| Case Material | 18k white gold | Stainless steel or rose gold |
| Case Size | 42mm | 40.5mm |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters | 30 meters |
| Strap/Bracelet | Calfskin strap | Integrated metal bracelet |
| Dial Options | Blue-grey or khaki green | Sunburst blue-gray with black-gradient rim |
The 5990’s familiar Nautilus design and integrated bracelet give it an unmistakable presence on the wrist. Its stainless steel version was meant to be one of the brand’s more attainable models, but demand quickly outpaced supply.. Also, the5990’s 40.5mm case size feels a bit more compact than the 5924g[4] . The 5924g, while inspired by the pilot watch aesthetic, comes across as more formal in overall presentation. The white gold material places it in a higher price category than the steel 5990, making it a precious metal companion to the sports watch format.
From the wearing standpoint, the 5990’s integrated bracelet unifies the watch in a way that makes it a purpose-built sports watch. The 5924g’s leather strap allows it to be dressed up or down, but lacks the casual aplomb that the Nautilus’ styling exudes. The Calatrava Pilot collection’s lower demand allows enthusiasts to find the 5924g model with less difficulty due to fewer instances of speculative buying. The movement execution is at the same technical level for both pieces, so this choice is largely a question of style and intended use.
The Ownership Experience: Living with the 5924g
What’s it like to own and wear the 5924G? We’re genuinely excited about this new addition to the Calatrava Pilot line. It’s worth taking a closer look at what makes it special before adding one to your collection.
Wearability and Comfort
Size wise the case falls into the sweet spot. At 42mm it’s bigger than a traditional dress watch but still not as big as some of the sportier models coming from Patek in recent years. The watch will look very proportionate if you have a wrist of 7 inches or more but will look like a larger case on small wrists. Thickness wise 13.05mm is chunky but not ridiculous, and heavier at 165 grams, but it’s nothing you won’t be able to shove under your shirt cuff.
The calfskin strap provides comfort for all-day wear, though white gold’s weight means the watch has more heft than a steel equivalent. This substantial feel communicates quality but may feel excessive to those accustomed to lighter timepieces.
Practicality
The dual time zone is useful for frequent travelers. Setting the local time takes a few seconds with the recessed pushers on the left side of the case. The day/night indications make it immediately clear which time zone is which. The flyback chronograph is perhaps less frequently used in everyday life. When needed, the split-second timing can be performed, and it’s a nice visual focus point on the dial.
Some users mention that the chronograph pushers need to be pushed with some force. This is the nature of column-wheel chronographs, it makes them less likely to be operated accidentally. The travel time pushers can be activated with a lighter pressure and they give a noticeable click when pushed.
Value and Investment
The 5924g does fall in a nice sweet spot on the Patek Philippe spectrum. The brand’s Nautilus and Aquanaut tend to have significant markups above retail in the secondary market. The Calatrava Pilot line, however, has historically traded closer to retail in pre-owned circles. This gives prospective buyers a chance to wear their watch, rather than speculate.
Retail pricing on the 5924g is already a little high at around $97,022 for both dial variants. Pre-owned pricing is all over the board, depending on condition, completeness of papers and box, etc. White gold’s intrinsic value will at least give the price a floor.
As with any luxury watch purchase, it should first and foremost be bought to be enjoyed by the wearer. Patek Philippe’s track record of quality and limited production runs will likely allow for some retention of value in the future.
The Enduring Allure of the Patek 5924g
The Patek Philippe 5924g is proof that the brand can deliver fresh and modern designs, while maintaining their core values and heritage. The technical specification is up to Patek Philippe’s famously high standards, and the case and dial offer a more modern and practical option to the classic Calatrava.
We think that if you’re looking for a travel watch with chronograph functions, the Patek Philippe 5924g is well worth consideration. The 5924g will hold its value over time, and there are blue-grey and khaki green dial options.
At Bob’s Watches, our passion for fine timepieces runs deep. Few names embody the art of Swiss watchmaking quite like Patek Philippe, a brand synonymous with heritage and, of course, precision. We’re proud to carry a vast selection of Patek Philippe models for discerning collectors, each 100% authenticated and ready to become part of your watch box.
