Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Other than the all-new generation of 41mm Submariner watches, the update to the Oyster Perpetual collection was the biggest Rolex news for the collection. Positioned as Rolex' entry-level watch collection, the line has historically been among the last to receive updates, so it came as a surprise to many collectors that a number of key updates occurred, including Rolex's all-new Caliber 3230 movement joining the collection.

The biggest single update to the collection is an all-new 41mm model joining the lineup, replacing the 39mm version that previously occupied the position of the largest size available. While the new 41mm size is welcomed by many collectors, there are an equal number that are sad to see the 39mm model discontinued, as it occupied a bit of a sweet-spot in terms of case sizing within the brand's catalog.

Additionally, the smallest size available for the collection has been increased from 26mm to 28mm, bringing it more in-line with the sizing options available for the Datejust. As of 2023, the line is available in the following sizes and reference numbers.

• Ref. 276200: 28mm case diameter
• Ref. 277200: 31mm case diameter
• Ref. 124200: 34mm case diameter
• Ref. 126000: 36mm case diameter
• Ref. 124300: 41mm case diameter

The new Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 watches are both powered by Rolex' new-generation Cal. 3230 movement, while the 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm models all run on the Cal. 2232, which was introduced in 2020. Official retail prices range start at $6,400. However, despite their different sizes, movements, and pricing, all of the new models in this collection are exclusively offered in stainless steel, and provide the same exact timekeeping performance of +/-2 seconds per day.

The addition of all-new movements and new case sizes is certainly big news for the collection, but just as exciting to collectors are the dial colors available. For a number of years, the collection has been offered with dials that are often more colorful and playful than those found on other Rolex timepieces. However the introduction of bright and vivid colors offered in 2020 to the present brought in colors that are highly reminiscent of the vintage Stella Dials from the 1970s.

Relative to other watches offered by the brand, this timepiece has historically not been a very difficult model to acquire. While watches in this collection have always retained their value extremely well, the massive price premiums found on sports models often do not exist for this model, and rarely do pre-owned examples sell for more than their brand-new retail prices.

However, the bright new dial colors are particularly appealing to collectors, and there are some that speculate that there is a strong possibility that certain dial colors - particularly for the 36mm and 39mm sizes - will be difficult to find at a retail level. Should this happen and waitlists start to build, you can almost guarantee that second-hand prices will start to increase. If so, it is highly likely that we may see used prices for the collection exceed their brand-new values for the first time in modern history.

Founder, Hans Wilsdorf always believed that a wristwatch could be as indispensable and as reliable as a pocket watch. One of the key elements in convincing the public was improving the water resistance of a wristwatch, which up until that point had been something that manufacturers had been able to reliably achieve. His revolutionary invention - the Oyster Case - came about in 1926 and included a screwed down caseback, winding crown, and bezel to create a hermetically sealed environment for a reliable, high performance movement.

The Waterproof Rolex Oyster Case

The watch took its name from the mollusk which, just like the watch itself, protects the inside of the shell from water, creating a dry habitat. Demonstrating the performance and capability of this newly developed watch the model secured to the wrist of English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who became the first English woman to swim the English Channel. She wore the watch for around 15 hours in cold water while she completed her record-breaking mission. The watch was found to be performing beautifully after the swim, cementing Rolex's reputation for creating a waterproof wristwatch made from the highest quality materials and a reliable in-house movement.

Rolex became the first watch manufacturer to create a waterproof wristwatch in 1926. The famous Oyster case design features a patented system that screwed the bezel, the winding crown and the caseback to fit onto a solid steel, gold or platinum middle case. It remains one of the most recognizable and most popular wristwatches in the entire history of luxury watchmaking, and its basic design serves as the foundation for countless modern waters from a wide variety of brands.

With the exception of certain vintage models, most watches in the collection are equipped with the Twinlock Crown system, which features two separate sealed gaskets zones to prevent water from leaking into the case. This system helps provide these watches a 100-meter water resistance rating, despite not being specifically designed for underwater use.

The Self-Winding Rolex Perpetual Movement

Just five years after pioneering the revolutionary waterproof case, the brand developed a rotor-based self-winding mechanism for the model, which pre-dates the self-winding models. The technological advancement was made up of an oscillating weight (rotor) that would rotate with the natural motion of the wearer's arm, winding the mainspring in the process.

The invention of the automatic-winding rotor helped solve a problem for Wildorf who believed that a watch with waterproof qualities was not merely enough if the crown still needed to be constantly unscrewed to wind the mechanism of the watch. Automatic winding movements marked an important breakthrough in the evolution of waterproof watches since it meant that the wearer no longer had to unscrew the crown to wind the watch manually on a daily basis, which increases the amount of wear and tear on the gaskets that help to keep water out.

A simple yet robust in-house made movement powers on relentlessly at the heart of every watch. Despite its basic design, the watch has stood the test of time and Rolex's younger generation of movements now fitted with the patented "paramagnetic" blue Parachrom hairspring (as well as the manufacturer's own Paraflex shock absorbers) equals the quality and reliability of other more complicated movements created by Rolex.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Name

The "Oyster Perpetual" name is referenced in a number of other models, including the likes of the Daytona, GMT-Master, and the Submariner: however those actually just named the 'Rolex Oyster Perpetual' relate to the simplest of the company's design - the no-frills version that has served as the foundation of virtually every watch that Rolex has ever put forward.

All of Rolex's legendary purpose-built sport and tool watches are built upon the foundation of the original Oyster Perpetual model, and before the very first Rolex sports watch - the Explorer - was first introduced, it was Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches that were being used in some of the most demanding conditions on this planet. A Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch was worn by Sir Malcolm Campbell while breaking land speed records in the iconic Bluebell in 1935; and Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore this model on the first ever summit of Mount Everest in 1953. 

All modern examples are crafted from 904L stainless steel (known as Oystersteel); however the cost of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch depends on its size. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Prices

In more recent years, this timepiece has been a collection of exclusively stainless steel models, which all feature smooth bezels, and matching steel Oyster bracelets. However, Rolex previously offered the these models in both two-tone and solid gold variations, along with the options of fluted bezels and Jubilee bracelets. In most instances, it will be the modern variations that will be accompanied by the highest price tags, but solid gold models and rare or collectable vintage references can both sometimes cost significantly more than many brand-new examples.

Among the current-production models, the price is typically correlated with the case size of the watch. Generally speaking, the least expensive models will be the smallest 28mm versions, while the most expensive are the largest models with 41mm cases. This price trend also holds true for used Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches on the secondary market; however a slight discount can often be found compared to retail, when shopping for a pre-owned Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch.

How Much is A Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

Current 2023 retail prices for Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches start out at $6,400 for the smallest 28mm version in stainless steel and increase from there, depending on case size. The Oyster Perpetual lineup is the least expensive Rolex collection and consists of time-only watches (no date displays) that are available in a variety of different sizes. The price of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch generally increases with its case size; however, solid gold vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are the most expensive due to their use of premium materials.

Buying A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watch

When considering purchasing a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, decide firstly on whether you want to invest your money in a new model or aim for something higher with a pre-owned model. While the Oyster Perpetual in its simplest form will provide you with a daily companion and a straightforward three-handed design, models like the modern Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller will allow you to travel with a sophisticated timepiece that combines the fundamental elements of the iconic Oyster case with technical features for keeping on track of a busy business trip schedule.

As with all Rolex watches, new or pre-owned, it is always important to ensure you are purchasing from a reputable dealer. We offer the industry's best selection of pre-owned Rolex watches, all our Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are assessed, serviced, and authenticated by our team of in-house experts. 

Due to their different size cases, modern examples run on different movement. However, despite the use of different calibers, they all offer virtually identical timekeeping performance. despite their different sizes and variations in their construction, they are all guaranteed to the exact same 'Superlative Chronometer' standards of +/-2 seconds per day of timekeeping accuracy.

Both the new 36mm and 41mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual models are powered by the brand's new-generation Caliber 3230 movement. However, the 28mm, 31mm, and 34mm versions are all powered by the Caliber 2232. The Cal. 3230 features a Blue Parachrom hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve, the Cal. 2232 features a Syloxi hairspring and power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Additionally, while in the past, three different calibers were used throughout the Oyster Perpetual range, this update means that all Rolex Oyster Perpetual models are powered by either one of two calibers, simply depending on their case size.

Despite their different sizes and structures, all of the different modern movements promise the same timekeeping accuracy, and like all Rolex calibers, they are singularly reliable.

Technically speaking, all of the modern Rolex watches outside the Cellini collection are Oyster Perpetual models, even though the vast majority of them fall outside the actual 'Oyster Perpetual' collection. With that in mind, Rolex offers a number of models that offer all the hallmark traits of the iconic Oyster Perpetual watch and a similar overall aesthetic, but with the added functionality of a date display.

Rolex Oystrer Perpetual Datejust

In 1945 Rolex created the first ever self-winding wristwatch with a date indicator. The Datejust featured a date aperture nestled underneath a cyclops lens and a special Jubilee bracelet in celebration of its unique design. The exclusive bracelet featured a 5-link design made from stainless steel, white gold, yellow gold or Everose - the gold designs of which were and still are crafted in-house at Rolex’s foundry where all their own gold is produced.

The Datejust is a perfect companion for the wrist if you're looking for an everyday Rolex watch. Combined with a robust case construction, a practical and well-proportioned dial and a date feature, it can pair well with both professional attire and a casual outfit. The case sizes vary from a lady's 28mm to a men's 41mm. Watches developed from white gold, yellow gold or Everose are more luxurious, and their dials feature distinct characteristics like the Roman numeral hour markers and a fluted bezel.

Today, the Datejust is available on an Oyster bracelet with 3-link design and some lady’s versions have been adorned with mother of pearl dials and diamond-set bezels. Rolesor models made from stainless steel and gold are a classic option for many whereas the dials of the models from this iconic collection vary from chocolate, black, white, silver, rhodium, blue, pink, or champagne.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

Several US presidents have sported the Day-Date watch, which became the first waterproof wristwatch to display the day and date fully written out on the dial at the time of its release in 1956. The watch was named the Rolex President but is also worn by many actors and celebrities.

The Day-Date watch is only available in 18k gold or platinum and comes complete on the President Bracelet formed from an elegant three-piece link design made exclusively for the Day-Date line. The dials of the Day-Date include green, blue, silver, ice blue, orange, black and brown as well as mother of pearl dials adorned in diamond detailing, and a choice between a fluted bezel or the more recent glossy domed bezel. Additionally there are many other rare dial variants, such as the 'Stella dials' that feature brightly colored lacquered surfaces.

The Oyster Perpetual has been in production for decades. One of the most sought-after editions on the pre-owned market today is the ref. 116000. A modern edition of the series, this 36mm reference includes a Twinlock waterproof screw-down crown, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal over the dial, and a COSC-certified automatic movement. With several contemporary dial options available (such as red grape and striking silver), it's no wonder why ref. 116000 is currently trending.

Vintage Rolex watches are always hot on the secondary market. Whether you're new to the Rolex game or have spent years collecting them, chances are that the vintage models will prove too hard to resist. Popular options currently available on the pre-owned level include the stainless-steel ref. 1002, two-tone ref. 1005, and solid gold ref. 6636.

For those looking to get top dollar on their timepiece, be sure to visit our sell Rolex watch page.

What is A Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the brand's entry-level line of luxury watches. All Rolex watches from the Oyster Perpetual collection will be three-hand, time-only models, with self-winding automatic movements. Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are available in a number of different sizes, however all modern models are crafted from stainless steel and fitted with sapphire crystals.

What Does Oyster Perpetual Mean?

In Rolex terminology, the word "Oyster" means that the caseback screws down for water resistance, and the word "Perpetual" means that the movement is self-winding. Today, nearly all Rolex watches are technically considered Oyster Perpetual models; however, Rolex's entry-level watch collection is actually just called the Oyster Perpetual as an expression of these two defining Rolex technologies.

How To Tell if A Rolex Oyster Perpetual is Real?

There are a number of ways to tell whether or not a Rolex Oyster Perpetual is real; however, what to look for when verifying the authenticity of an Oyster Perpetual watch will differ from one generation to the next. Check out our 'How to Spot a Fake Rolex' guide on our resource center. Counterfeiters are getting better and better each day and copying Rolex's designs, and sometimes the only way to truly confirm that a Rolex Oyster Perpetual is genuine is to open it up and inspect it with high-powered magnification.

Do Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches Tick?

Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are powered by mechanical movements, rather than quartz movements, which means that they do not "tick" once every second like most watches. In reality, an Oyster Perpetual watch still ticks, but it ticks multiple times per second, which means that the seconds hand appears to glide smoothly around the dial, rather than jumping forward once every second like with standard quartz movement.

Does A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Have A Battery?

Regardless of the age or specific model, all Oyster Perpetual watches are powered by self-winding movements, which means that Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches do not have batteries. Automatic movements are powered by the natural motion of your arm, and they are comprised of many tiny interworking metal pieces. Therefore they do not run on electricity and consequently do not require batteries.

How To Change The Time On A Rolex Osyter Perpetual?

The winding crowns on Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches screw down to their cases to create a seal that keeps out both moisture and dust. To change the time on a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, you must first unscrew the winding crown from the case, before pulling out to the time-setting position. Rotate the crown to move the hands forwards or backwards, then push it back in and screw it down to finish setting the time.