Rolex GMT Master

The Rolex GMT-Master is the brand's line of multi-timezone watches for pilots and frequent travelers. Originally developed during the 1950s as international jet travel was really starting to take off as an industry, the Rolex GMT-Master II was created specifically as a means for pilots and crew members to simultaneously be able to reference two different time zones.

Over the years, the Rolex GMT-Master has evolved into the GMT-Master II, and it has also gained a strong audience among a far wider audience than just the aviation crowd. Today the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II are popular favorites among in incredibly diverse range of individuals, and can be spotted on the wrists of everyone including actors and musicians to military personal, and everyone in between.

Designed in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines, Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master watch to the market in 1954 (although most models did not get delivered and sold until 1955 and after). As the airline company embraced international travel in the mid-20th century and rapidly expanded its transcontinental flights, pilots needed a watch that was capable of simultaneously displaying two time zones. Rolex answered this request with the GMT-Master, which featured an additional 24-hour hand and a rotating bezel that allowed airline crews to quickly reference two time zones at once.

The revolutionary watch offered a simple and elegant solution to the dual time zone dilemma. Rolex's then-new aviation timepiece included an additional hour hand, which would complete one full rotation of the dial per day. This arrow-tipped hand was designed to point to a rotating bezel with corresponding hour markings to indicate local time while reference time was displayed via the traditional 12-hour hand on the dial. Consequently, each time a plane landed in a new time zone, pilots simply had to turn the bidirectional rotatable bezel to correspond with the number of hours offset from the reference time zone and read the local time zone with the GMT hand against the bezel, all without disturbing reference time or even having to unscrew the crown to adjust their watches.

Although the model was developed as an airline pilot watch, specifically intended for professional use, a much wider audience has since adopted it over the last six decades thanks to its striking design and practical functionality. Enjoyed by pilots, world travelers, and fans of versatile luxury watches alike, the GMT has become one of Rolex's most iconic sport watch collections. 

The popularity of the collection has continued to rise in recent years with the release of the current reference 126710 Pepsi and Batman models. The abundance of variation offered by vintage and modern GMT watches ensures that there is a model worthy of both classic and modern styles.

The price of Rolex GMT watches has significantly increased on the secondary market in recent years due to surging demand. This is particularly true of the stainless steel GMT-Master models, which are some of the most sought after Rolex watches in the world right now, and used examples consistently trade hands for significantly more than their brand-new retail prices on the secondary market.

For example, the 2019 editions of Rolex’s iconic pilot's watch are currently sold out in boutiques worldwide with waitlists stretching for multiple years. Many collectors are willing to pay well-above retail to ship the waiting list, which has resulted in a massive increase in price on the open market, similar to what can be seen with vintage or discontinued models which are no longer available at retailers or boutiques.

Depending on the model (vintage, discontinued, or current-production models), examples of the stainless Rolex GMT for sale on the secondary market can have prices that range anywhere from $10,000 to $22,000. Additionally, precious metal versions can reach up to $35,000 and even higher, depending on the materials of its construction and use of diamonds or other precious gemstones.

The first model to kick off Rolex's aviator watch collection in 1955 was the reference 6542, which was loosely based on the Turn-O-Graph ref. 6202 that was first introduced in 1953. Like the Turn-O-Graph 6202, the GMT-Master 6542 featured a 38mm stainless steel case without crown guards, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a black dial with luminous hands and hour markers for optimal legibility. However, unlike the 6202, the ref. 6542 included a red and blue bezel insert with 24-hour markings and a modified self-winding mechanical movement featuring an additional GMT hand.

Over the years, they improved upon the core design of the model with each new reference. The company launched the reference 1675 in 1959, which included crown guards on the larger 40mm case and a COSC-certified movement. Following this, Rolex presented the GMT-Master 16750 in 1981, which doubled the water-resistance of the case to 100 meters and introduced the quickset date feature thanks to a new movement.  Finally, in 1988, Rolex presented the reference 16700 with sapphire crystal and white gold applied indexes on the dial. The 16700 was the last dual-time reference and it was ultimately discontinued in 1999.

The Rolex GMT-Master II made its debut in 1982 as a mechanically enhanced version of the original pilot’s watch, where the two-hour hands could now be set independently from each other. Consequently, wearers of the new generation of watches could set the hour hands to two different time zone, and then turn the bezel to read a third time zone. Retaining much of the same design codes as the original, the first GMT-Master II was the reference 16760, which was then replaced by the ref. 16710 in 1989, featuring a slimmer case and a new movement.

In 2005, Rolex announced an all-new generation with 1167xx reference numbers featuring Cerachrom bezels and re-designed “Super Cases” with thicker lugs and crown guards. Finally, in 2018, Rolex launched the latest versions with 1267xx reference numbers, complete with new-generation movements, material options, and bezel colors.

The GMT collection has been a part of the Rolex catalog for over 60 years.

• 1955 – First GMT-Master, reference 6542
• 1960s - Concorde performed final test flights with pilots wearing GMT-Master watches
• 1982 – First GMT-Master II, reference 16760
• 1999 – End of standard GMT-Master, GMT-Master II takes over entirely
• 2005 - Rolex replaced the aluminum bezels with Cerachrom ceramic
• 2013 – First bi-colored Cerachrom ceramic bezel (blue/black) with ref. 116710BLNR "Batman"
• 2014 – First "Pepsi" Cerachrom ceramic bezel (red/blue) with ref. 116719BLRO
• 2018 – First Everose versions with "Root Beer" ceramic bezels with ref. 126715 and two-tone ref. 126711
• 2018 – First time Jubilee bracelet, Oystersteel, and bi-colored "Pepsi" Cerachrom bezel comes together with the ref. 126710BLRO

The model has been a constant presence in the Rolex catalog since it was first introduced in 1955; however between both the original GMT-Master and GMT-Master II models, Rolex's iconic pilots watch has existed in a number of different configurations.

• Ref. 6542 - 38mm case, stainless steel, Bakelite bezel, acrylic crystal
• Ref. 1675  - 40mm case, stainless steel, aluminum bezel, acrylic crystal
• Ref. 1675/3 - 40mm case, Yellow Rolesor, aluminum bezel, acrylic crystal
• Ref. 1675/8 - 40mm case, yellow gold, aluminum bezel, acrylic crystal
• Ref. 16750 - 40mm case, stainless steel, aluminum bezel, acrylic crystal (quickset date)
• Ref. 16753 - 40mm case, Yellow Rolesor, aluminum bezel, acrylic crystal (quickset date)
• Ref. 16758 - 40mm case, yellow gold, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (quickset date)
• Ref. 16760 - 40mm case, stainless steel, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 16700 - 40mm case, stainless steel, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (quickset date)
• Ref. 16710 - 40mm case, stainless steel, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 16713 - 40mm case, Yellow Rolesor, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 16718 - 40mm case, yellow gold, aluminum bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116710 - 40mm case, stainless steel, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116713 - 40mm case, Yellow Rolesor, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116718 - 40mm case, yellow gold, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116719 - 40mm case, white gold, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116758 - 40mm case, yellow gold, gem-set bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 116759 - 40mm case, white gold, gem-set bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 126710 - 40mm case, stainless steel, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 126711 - 40mm case, Everose Rolesor, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 126715 - 40mm case, Everose gold, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)
• Ref. 126719 - 40mm case, white gold, Cerachrom bezel, sapphire crystal (independent hours)

MATERIALS

The collection is among the company's most varied in terms of material options. Rolex has made stainless steel, two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel (yellow Rolesor), and full yellow gold versions of the classic model. Furthermore, Rolex has manufactured stainless steel (known as Oystersteel since 2018), Yellow Rolesor, two-tone Everose gold and stainless steel (Everose Rolesor), and full 18k yellow gold, white gold, and Everose gold versions of the GMT-Master II. There are even some rare solid-gold models paved with diamonds and set with other precious gemstones such as rubies and sapphires.

DIALS

The dial layout of the GMT is similar to other Rolex professional watch models. They feature a mix of round, triangular, and rectangular hour markers and Mercedes style hands, all coated with luminescence for maximum legibility in low light. Additionally, there’s also the arrow-tipped 24-hour hand on the dial to use in conjunction with the corresponding hour graduations on the bezel, and a date window at 3 o'clock, accompanied by a Cyclops lens affixed to the crystal above it to magnify the date.

Although most GMT dials are black, Rolex has made a few other special dial designs such as the champagne and silver "Serti" dials set with diamonds and ruby hour markers, full diamond pavé dials, brown dials, blue dials, bright green anniversary-edition dials, and even meteorite dials.

BEZELS

The bidirectional rotating 24-hour marked bezel of the GMT-Master is the most recognizable design trait of this particular Rolex collection. Many of the bezels feature two colors - a design feature that is said to not just have aesthetic purposes, but also for increased functionality, as the colors serve to differentiate between daylight and nighttime hours. However, it is also said that the original concept for the bi-color bezel was simply to have an aviation-themed aesthetic, as it was reminiscent of the design of altitude indicators on older aircrafts such as the DC6, which is why there are also single-color GMT-Master bezel inserts.

The first reference came equipped with a blue and red bezel, where the red portion represented the approximated daytime hours while the blue contains the nighttime hours. The striking blue and red combo is iconic to the collection and it is frequently referred to as the Pepsi bezel. Other Rolex GMT bezel color combinations with famous nicknames include the black and red Coke bezel, the brown and tan Root Beer bezel, and the black and blue Batman bezel. There are also GMT-Master watches with monochromatic all-black bezels.

Aside from varying colors, the material used for the GMT-Master’s bezel insert has also evolved over the decades. The very first model featured a bezel insert fashioned from Bakelite, but due to the material’s proneness to cracking and the high amount of radiation emitted from the glowing radium numerals set into it, Rolex quickly replaced it with an insert made from anodized aluminum. Rolex continued to use aluminum until 2005 when the company turned to high-tech Cerachrom inserts. A Rolex exclusive alloy, Cerachrom is a hard ceramic material that is scratch-proof and resistant to fading, providing superb robustness and longevity.

Initially, Rolex stated that it would be impossible to create a bi-colored bezel in ceramic, and only offered an all-black version of their Cerachrom bezel insert. However, thanks to Rolex’s commitment to innovation and technology, two-color bezel inserts eventually joined the collection in the form of the "Pepsi" (red and blue), "Batman" (black and blue), and “Root Beer” (black and brown) editions. The combination of two-colors on a single-piece ceramic component was a world first.

BRACELETS

Both the three-link Oyster bracelet and five-link Jubilee bracelet have been available on the collection over the years. Additionally, depending on the specific model, there are stainless steel, two-tone steel and gold, and solid gold variations of both bracelets.

As of 2019, Rolex has organized the GMT collection whereby the Oystersteel versions come exclusively equipped with Jubilee bracelets while the 18ct white gold, 18ct Everose gold, and Everose Rolesor versions are only fitted with Oyster bracelets.

There have been numerous automatic mechanical movements that have powered the various watches of the collection throughout its long and storied history. The primary difference between the classic GMT-Master and the GMT-Master II is that on the former, the 12-hour and 24-hour hands are coupled, enabling wearers to simultaneously display 2 time zones, while on the latter, the two hour hands can be set independently, enabling the second-generation GMT watches to display three different time zones at once.

GMT-Master Calibers

• Reference 6542: Caliber 1036, Caliber 1065 and Caliber 1066
• Reference 1675: Caliber 1565, Caliber 1575
• Reference 16750, 16758, 16753: Caliber 3075
• Reference 16700: Caliber 3175

GMT-Master II Calibers

• Reference 16760: Caliber 3085
• Reference 16710, 16718, 16713: Caliber 3185, Caliber 3186
• Reference 116710, 116718, 116713, 116719: Caliber 3186
• Reference 126710, 126719, 126715, 126711: Caliber 3285

The newest Caliber 3285 was introduced in 2018 as a new-generation Rolex GMT movement. Boasting 10 patent applications during development, the Caliber 3285 not only offers enhanced precision, reliability, and shock resistance but also an improved power reserve rating of 70 hours (compared to the previous 48 hours).

• Excellent investment (both modern and vintage references)
• Highly-practical features and design
• Many different options available within the collection
• Reliable, durable, and incredibly accurate
• One of the most desirable watches in the word
• Those looking to sell a Rolex might see high returns from their investment. 

Positioned as the ultimate cosmopolitan watch for jet-setters and world travelers, it's no wonder that a number of celebrities favor these watches. Here are just a few of the famous people that wear the collection's emblematic design.

• Clint Eastwood
• Ellen Degeneres
• Brad Pitt
• Sylvester Stallone
• Tom Selleck
• Daniel Craig
• Orlando Bloom
• Howard Kendrick
• James Spader
• Ben Affleck
• Keanu Reeves
• John Mayer
• Kasper Schmeichel
• Karim Benzema
• Roger Federer
• Marlon Brando
• Mark Wahlberg
• Steve Carell
• Adam Levine

The last reference produced under the original GMT-Master series before the upgrade to an independent 24-hour hand and the arrival of the GMT-Master II watches was the ref. 16700. In an interesting move, the watch continued production alongside the new GMT-Master II until 1999. It was a popular choice among many collectors as it was the less expensive option at the time. Today, many collectors seek the ref. 16700 both for its classic size and weight and its place in GMT Master history as the last in the original series. Its features includes a desirable stainless-steel finish, the Cal. 3175 movement with hacking and a quick-set date, and either a 5-link Jubilee or 3-link Oyster bracelet.

Also popular on the secondary market is the Pepsi GMT-Master. The ref. 1675 is an iconic vintage edition of the 4-digit pilot's watch offered in stainless steel and fitted with either a glossy gilt or matte dial. Depending on the year of production, it also features either a small or large triangle at the end of the 24-hour hand. Several more variations exist within the ref. 1675, such as bezel color and crown-guard shape, making it a fun watch to collect.

WHAT IS A ROLEX-GMT-MASTER?

• The Rolex-GMT-Master is the brand's collection of multi-timezone pilot's watches. Developed in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines in 1954, and formally released to the public in 1955, the Rolex GMT-Master set the standard to dual time travel watches. In 1983, Rolex released the GMT-Master II, which allowed for the independent adjustment of the hour hands, enabling it to display an additional third time zone by simply rotating its bezel.

What does GMT stand for on a Rolex watch?? 

• The collection dates back to the 1950s when the new demands of long-distance trans-Atlantic flights called for a multi-time zone watch. The "GMT" in the name refers to Greenwich Mean Time - the mean solar time of the longitude (0°) of the Royal Greenwich Observatory in England. At the time the collection was released, GMT was the universally accepted time format, and the one used by pilots as the universal coordinated time of the skies. Extraordinary for its era and fitting to what the company was producing at the time: tool watches, the revolutionary pilot's watch has become an industry icon. Today the various references within the collection have many nicknames including the Batman, Pussy Galore, Pepsi, Coke, and more.   

WHAT SIZE IS A ROLEX GMT?

• With the exception of the very first version iteration of the watch, which had a case diameter of 38mm, every single subsequent version of both the standard GMT and the GMT-Master II has had a case size of 40mm. With that in mind, due to the presence of thicker lugs and crown guards, the newer references with “Super Cases” appear larger than their predecessors, despite having the exact same 40mm diameter. 

IS A ROLEX GMT-MASTER A GOOD INVESTMENT? 

• The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the best investment watches available. Used GMT-Master watches often sell for significantly more than their original retail prices on the open market, and waiting lists at retailers often span multiple years. Additionally, some collectible vintage Rolex GMT-Master models can be worth tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars when they sell at auction.

HOW TO ADJUST A ROLEX GMT-MASTER BRACELET

• The clasp on Rolex GMT-Master bracelets offers some amount of adjustability, but most people will need to either add or remove links to adjust a Rolex GMT-Master bracelet. With the exception of the very oldest styles of GMT-Master bracelets, the links can be removed by simply unscrewing them with the small screws located on the side of the bracelet links.

IS THE ROLEX GMT BATMAN DISCONTINUED?

• The original Rolex GMT Batman was discontinued in 2019 after being first introduced at Baselworld 2013. However, the same year that the first Batman GMT 116710BLNR was discontinued, Rolex replaced it with the updated 126710BLNR featuring the same black and blue bezel, but with an updated movement and a Jubilee bracelet.