Rolex Sea-Dweller

The Rolex Sea Dweller and Deepsea are at the top of most Rolex fan's "must have" list. Known for their large case sizes, classic looks and deep sea diving capabilities, pre-owned Rolex Sea-Dweller models have taken the luxury watch industry by storm. With ceramic bezels and luminous markers, some are calling the new Rolex Sea-Dweller one of the most innovative watches on the market.

If there’s one model Rolex has ever made (past or present) worthy of being referred to as the "tank" of their collection, it's the Sea-Dweller. This deep-diving tool watch came as the big brother to the Submariner back in 1967, and the model has continued to evolve through the decades. In 2012, Rolex took title as the deepest diving watch on earth, as the prototype Deep Sea Challenge, capable of resisting pressures at up to 12,000m below the surface, ventured to the very bottom of the ocean.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller range has never been nearly as diverse or expansive as the Submariner collection, as the line was specifically designed for professional saturation divers, and Rolex has made a point to keep the collection as tool/utility focused as possible, with a two-tone variation only joining the lineup in 2019.

Before the Rolex Sea-Dweller came to market, the brand already had already been pushing the boundaries of water resistance in watchmaking. Of course, they were the first to market with a waterproof and dust-proof watch, in the form of the Rolex Oyster in 1926. To many, the imagery associated with the original Oyster is the marketing campaign that came a year later, when Rolex put an Oyster around the neck of Mercedes Glietze during her attempt to swim across the English Channel. Though her crossing was unsuccessful, the inner workings of said Rolex watch remained bone dry through her 10+ hours in the water.

Of course there’s also the matter of the Submariner, whose successes no doubt influenced the decision to build the Sea-Dweller. Launched in 1953 and backed with ample professional testing and support from the professional diving industry, the Submariner’s instant positioning as ‘the dive watch to beat’ meant that diving deeper and pushing boundaries was destined to be right around the corner. 

Diving to New Depths

In the September following the Submariner's launch, a Rolex prototype cleared the 3131.8 meter underwater mark, attached to a deep-diving submersible piloted by Auguste Piccard. This was a huge stretch beyond the Submariner’s 100m/200m water resistance at the time (depending on the chosen model in first year of production), and it seems the endeavor was just the beginning of the brand’s grandiose undertakings.

In 1960, Don Walsh and Jacques Piccard (the son of Auguste Piccard) were pushing the boundaries of deep sea exploration, and after a series of shallower trials deployed the mighty Bathyscaphe Trieste down into the Mariana Trench, some 10,916 meters below the surface. Much as in the September 1953 dive, yet another experimental Rolex prototype known as the Deep Sea Special was affixed to the vessel, and the piece ended up proving that the brand was capable of building a waterproof watch unlike any other at the time.

To put this into modern context, this kind of leap in capability is beyond anything we see in modern-day record breaking. These days, world records of any sort are done in inches, in miles per hour, or in milliseconds. In less than 7 years, Rolex more than tripled their dive depth capability and resistance to pressure.

As of 2020, retail prices for Rolex Sea-Dweller watches start out at $11,700 and increase depending on material and model. However, due to an overwhelming demand and a relatively fixed supply, many sell for more than their original retail prices on the secondary market.

Prices for vintage references such as Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) watches - or the mega-rare, prototype Single Red Sea-Dweller (SRSD) watches are significantly more expensive than contemporary references; however, older, discontinued models can often be found under the $10k mark on the secondary market.

Additionally, it is also worth noting that the current market values between the Triple Six and the Great White are quite different even though the changes between the two models is relatively minor. While values of the Great White continue to rise, the Triple Six is a bargain by comparison. You can still find examples for the latter below the $10k mark depending on condition, whereas a very rough around the edges Great White will still set you back a minimum of nearly $20k or more.

What do the prices for Rolex Sea-dweller watches look like?

• Due to overwhelming demand and a relatively fixed supply, many Sea-Dweller watches sell for more than their original retail prices on the secondary market. Retail prices for the most recent version of the Rolex Sea-Dweller start out at $11,700 for the stainless steel reference 126600. The cost increases from there for the Deepsea and the two-tone steel and gold model, with Deepsea prices starting at $12,600 for the version with the black dial.

HOW MUCH DOES A VINTAGE SEA-DWELLER COST?

• Vintage Sea-Dweller models are considered collectible, and many can sell for significantly more than brand-new Rolex Sea-Dweller watches. Prices for vintage Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 watches starts out at approximately $20,000; however the early-production Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) models can sell for several times that, and the ultra-rare Single Red Sea-Dweller (SRSD) watches can sell for well over six figures whenever one manages to surface at auction.

By 1967, the Rolex Submariner had already firmed up its position of preference among broad swaths of commercial divers and the general public alike, as 200m of water resistance was ample protection for most. That said, saturation divers had started noting an interesting phenomenon taking place during the desaturation phase. A unique, limited, and very niche segment of Submariner customers, these divers would sometimes experience instances during the decompression phase where the plexiglass crystals on their watches would pop off due to the trapped pressure inside the watch.

To break it down as simply as possible, at saturation depths (specifically in SeaLab, where divers would live underwater for multiple days), divers would breathe a mix of Oxygen and Helium in the labs. The tiny helium molecules would work their way into the watches, one way or another), and during decompression as the helium expands, creating a need to “escape” its environment, the path of least resistance would be to push the flexible plexi crystal outward. 

Leading up to 1967, Rolex worked tirelessly on potential solutions, eventually leading to their patenting of the Helium escape valve - a staple feature of the Sea-Dweller since day one.  Effectively a one-way pressure relief valve, the device proved capable of maintaining water resistance at significant depth, and yet provided an automatically regulating outlet for trapped helium to exit during the decompression stage.

Unlike its current form, the case of the reference 1665 Sea-Dweller at launch was the same as that of the Submariner of the same year, measuring 40mm across. It was also powered by the same movement - the self-winding caliber 1575. Aside from the Helium escape valve located on its case flank at 9 o’clock, the only real differentiation between the two models came down to water resistance and dial text. Similarly to how the 2nd prototype dive tripled the capability of the first, the Sea-Dweller tripled the water resistance of the Submariner. The ref. 1665 had a water resistance of 2,000 feet, or 610 meters. It also earned the nickname “Double Red”, for its use of two red lines of text on its dial.

Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller Variations

Due to a string of production changes, there are actually 4 variants of “Double Red” Sea-Dwellers that came to market in the 10-year production run of the reference. They break down as follows:

1. MK I: These are the dials on the very first versions of the Sea-Dweller ref. 1665. Since the HEV patent had not been granted yet, these models actually have “Patent Pending” engraved on the caseback. The font size and color of both lines of red text are identical. The Rolex crown or coronet is the thicker style found on many vintage Rolex watches of the era.
2. MK II: This dial version is found on both “Patent Pending” and “Patented” engraved Sea-Dweller models. The main difference with the MK I dial however, is the “SUBMARINER 2000” text is smaller than the “SEA-DWELLER” font.
3. MK III: The MK III dial has a similar font structure of the two red lines of the preceding MK II dial; however, the coronet is different. This time the updated Rolex crown logo is lengthened and not as thick as previous versions.
4. MK IV: This is the last version of the DRSD dial. The MK IV includes closed 6s rather than open 6s. Furthermore, the font on all four lines of text - red and white - is thicker than previous versions. Also thicker, are the prongs of the Rolex coronet.

After these four variants of the reference, the “Great White” appeared in 1977; this was still a 1665 reference, though its red text was now been printed in white, and they lacked the "SUBMARINER" name on them entirely.

Arriving in 1978, with the 1665 still in production, a new and upgraded variant of Sea-Dweller arrived featuring two crucial upgrades. First, its movement was switched out for the new, modern Caliber 3035, beating at 28,800 beats per hour. Second, its plexiglass crystal was replaced with a sapphire one, further pushing the SD into its more "modern" form.

While the crystal change had its practical benefits for the mass consumer (of which there weren’t that many), the real perk here was the ability to increase its water resistance even further. In this guise, the Sea-Dweller doubled its depth rating to 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters.

In 1989 a new reference arrived once again, but left the Sea-Dweller mostly unchanged. Materials, dimensions, depth rating, and other details remained intact, with its caliber update to the 3135 being the only real noteworthy change. The 16600 lasted from 1989 until 2009, and aside from an evolution in luminous material (from Tritium to LumiNova, to Super-LumiNova) little changed on Rolex's ultimate dive watch.

2008 marked yet another new era of sorts for the Sea-Dweller in the form of the Deepsea - a new behemoth 44mm diameter diver with the same general aesthetics as its siblings, which once again ups the ante in terms of water resistance. In now traditional Rolex fashion, its water resistance is yet again more than tripled, pushing specs up to an astonishing 12,800 feet, or 3,990 meters. 

Its rehaut also adds two key inscriptions; 'Original Gas Escape Valve' appears at the upper portion of its rehaut, and 'Ring Lock System' in the lower portion between five and seven o'clock. A Cerachrom ceramic bezel appears on the Sea-Dweller for the first time, as does Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight luminous material in place of the previously standard-issue Super-LumiNova.

The Rolex James Cameron Deepsea

In 2014, a special and much-loved variant of the reference 116600 appeared at Baselworld, and one that remains in standard production to this day. The piece was initially produced as a commemorative piece celebrating James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenge - a modern venture into the Mariana Trench that set a new record for a solo manned diving depth, having reached 10,908 meters below the surface (missing the 1960 Trieste record by only 8 meters). Its dial features a blue-to-black gradient dial, designed as a nod to the darkening waters as one plunges deeper below the surface. The choice of neon green for the printing of DEEPSEA, on the other hand, was chosen to match the color of Cameron’s Deepsea Challenger submersible.

With all the excitement of the larger Deepsea, it was a bit of a surprise that Rolex returned to the market with a “standard issue” Sea-Dweller in 2014. The piece went back to pre-2008 design - in particular bringing its case size back down to 40mm and its water resistance to 4,000m as seen in the Triple Six. Although it featured modern enhancements such as a Cerachrom bezel, the reference only lasted a few years, being killed off in 2017. Thanks to this scarcity (and the growing demand for modern steel Rolex sport watches), secondary market values are looking bright for the last of the compact Sea-Dwellers.

To many, 2017 is the year things truly broke tradition  for the Sea-Dweller, with its design taking an oddly compromised route in some respects, but one that seems to work beautifully regardless. There’s a lot to take in here, starting with the Cyclops magnification lens. For years upon years, Rolex insisted that it couldn’t install a Cyclops on its crystal, as it risked the structural integrity when at peak pressure. That challenge was overcome in the reference 126600, and a cyclops was added for practicality. 

Additionally, and purely for aesthetic reasons, we see the return of the single red text for the model name on the dial. While Rolex has never been one to bow to industry trends, by 2017 there was simply no shaking the fact that vintage inspired watches are in high demand, and adding this detail was the perfect (and subtle) way to cater to market demand while simultaneously distinguishing it from the Submariner. Lastly is the matter of its case size. While the 44mm Deepsea doesn’t appeal to all, it was clear that the 40mm Sea-Dweller had run its course. For this reason, the current reference of Sea-Dweller splits the difference, measuring a large but not unbearable 43mm across.

In 2019, Rolex released the reference 126603 - the first standard-production Sea-Dweller watch to ever feature precious metal construction. Crafted from 904L Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold, the two-tone Sea-Dweller retains the same design of the 43mm steel version, but renders it in an entirely new and luxurious finish.

Positioned as the ultimate deep sea diving tool, and offering a serious wrist presence, it's no wonder that a number of celebrities favor Rolex Sea-Dweller watches. Here are just a few of the famous people that wear these ultra-capable tool watches.

• David Beckham
• Tiger Woods
• James Cameron
• Charlize Theron
• Ben Afflack
• Ashton Kutcher
• Sylvester Stallone
• Michael Strahan
• Richard Hammond
• Paul Casey

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is a legendary dive watch, expanding upon the capabilities of the Submariner with an increased depth rating and helium escape valve. Popular within the Sea-Dweller series is the ref. 16600, which was one of the first "modern" Sea-Dweller watches as it features white gold-trimmed hour markers, a sapphire crystal, and a high-beat Cal. 3135 movement. Depending on the year of production, it can feature either Tritium, LumiNova, or Super-LumiNova on the dial.

Its successor, the ref. 116600, is also trending on the market for its use of a Cerachrom ceramic bezel instead of aluminum and being the last 40mm Sea-Dweller ever produced. Replacing the ref. 116600 is the current ref. 126600, which keeps the same ceramic insert but now runs on the Cal. 3235 Perpetual movement and also features a larger 43mm case, along with a Cyclops lens on the crystal above the date display.