Founded in 1884, Breitling has built its legacy around precision, adventure, and an unshakable link to aviation. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at some of its most beloved watches, from the iconic Navitimer to the modern Superocean, and what makes them such highly sought-after favorites among collectors. We’ll examine the company’s fascinating history, summarize the most popular models, and provide investment guidelines to help you stay well-informed when it comes time to buy your next Breitling watch.
Key Takeaways
- Breitling’s Heritage: A short introduction to the brand’s history and its many innovations
- The Iconic Models: A deep dive into the top 5 Breitling watches every collector should know
- Investment Value: A discussion on which of Breitling watches best retain their value and what to look for when purchasing new or used
- Finding Your Perfect Timepiece: A final consideration for determining the ideal Breitling for your collection
- FAQs: We answer the most common questions about Breitling watches
Whether you’re new to Breitling or have collected for years, we will help you find the perfect model for your collection.
A Legacy of Precision: Why Breitling is a Titan of Watchmaking
Breitling’s history goes back as early as 1884 when Léon Breitling established his first atelier in the Swiss Jura region. From the very beginning, Breitling set out to master one thing: precision. Early on, its chronographs became the tools of choice for pilots and engineers, people who depended on accuracy when it mattered most.
By the mid-20th century, Breitling wasn’t just making watches. It was building the tools that helped aviators navigate the skies. During WWII, its onboard chronographs became standard equipment for the Royal Air Force, a partnership that cemented its reputation for reliability under pressure. Through the decades, Breitling has held on to its commitment to precision and innovation, producing many in-house movements, earning multiple chronometer certifications, and remaining a dependable partner for professional aviators worldwide.
- 1884: Léon Breitling opens his first workshop in Saint-Imier, Switzerland
- 1915: Breitling introduces the first watch with an independent chronograph pusher
- 1938: Formation of the Huit Aviation Department, specializing in cockpit instruments
- 1942: Release of the first Chronomat
- 1952: Introduction of the Navitimer, the iconic pilot’s chronograph
- 1957: Launch of the Superocean diving watch
- 1984: Relaunch of the Chronomat, contributing to a revival of mechanical watchmaking
- 2009: Breitling transitions to in-house movements
The Icons: 7 Breitling Watches Every Collector Should Know
Breitling’s catalog is large and diverse, but some of their watches have become icons. Here are the top 7 Breitling watches that have left a mark on horology and continue to be highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.
The Professional Diver: Superocean Automatic 44
The Superocean Automatic 44 represents Breitling’s commitment to creating serious dive watches with both technical capability and contemporary style. This model combines the heritage of the original 1957 Superocean with modern engineering, featuring a robust 44mm case built to withstand depths of up to 1,000 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert provides precise elapsed time tracking, while the highly legible dial with oversized luminous markers ensures readability in the darkest underwater conditions.
What sets the Superocean Automatic 44 apart is its versatility. The watch transitions seamlessly from professional diving to everyday wear, with a range of dial colors and strap options including mesh bracelets and rubber straps. Powered by the Breitling Caliber 17, based on the reliable ETA 2824-2 movement, this watch delivers dependable performance with COSC chronometer certification.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Caliber 17 (automatic, based on ETA 2824-2) |
| Case Size | 44mm |
| Water Resistance | 1,000 meters (100 bar) |
| Signature Features | Ceramic bezel insert, high water resistance, luminous markers, mesh bracelet option |
| Retail Price | $4,650 to $5,200+ depending on configuration |
| Pre-Owned Market | $3,200 to $4,200+ for models in good condition |
The Modern Sports Icon: Chronomat B01 42
The Chronomat B01 42 embodies everything that made the 1984 Breitling Chronomat a legend while incorporating cutting-edge technology and refined proportions for modern wrists. This 42mm sports chronograph features Breitling’s flagship in-house Caliber B01 movement, offering approximately 70 hours of power reserve and COSC chronometer certification. The distinctive rider tabs on the bezel pay homage to the original design created for the Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team.
With 200 meters of water resistance and the iconic Rouleaux bracelet, the Chronomat B01 42 serves as an all-purpose sports watch equally at home in the boardroom or on the weekend. The watch is available in stainless steel, two-tone, and precious metal configurations, with dial options ranging from classic black and blue to more adventurous green and copper tones. Collectors appreciate how this model balances vintage-inspired design cues with contemporary manufacturing excellence.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Manufacture Caliber B01 (automatic chronograph) |
| Case Size | 42mm |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters (20 bar) |
| Signature Features | Rider tabs, Rouleaux bracelet, in-house movement, 70-hour power reserve |
| Retail Price | $8,900 to $13,500+ depending on materials |
| Pre-Owned Market | $6,500 to $10,500+ for modern references |
The Aviation Legend: Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 is the contemporary expression of Breitling’s most iconic watch, combining 70 years of heritage with modern horological innovation. At 43mm, this size offers ideal proportions that honor the original while accommodating contemporary preferences. The circular slide rule bezel remains the watch’s defining feature, allowing pilots to perform essential flight calculations without electronic assistance.
Powered by the manufacture Caliber B01, the Breitling Navitimer B01 represents a significant upgrade from earlier generations that relied on modified third-party movements. The in-house caliber provides enhanced reliability, a longer 70-hour power reserve, and a transparent caseback that showcases Breitling’s manufacturing expertise. Available with both AOPA wings logo on vintage-inspired models and the modern Breitling “B” logo, this watch appeals to purists and contemporary collectors alike.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Manufacture Caliber B01 (automatic chronograph) |
| Case Size | 43mm |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters (3 bar) |
| Signature Features | Circular slide rule bezel, chronograph function, in-house movement, exhibition caseback |
| Retail Price | $9,200 to $14,000+ depending on model and materials |
| Pre-Owned Market | $6,800 to $11,000+ for modern references in good condition |
The Global Traveler: Avenger Automatic GMT 44
The Avenger Automatic GMT 44 serves the needs of travelers and adventurers who operate across multiple time zones. This robust 44mm tool watch features a second time zone complication with a 24-hour hand and rotating bezel, allowing simultaneous tracking of two time zones. The large, highly legible dial incorporates oversized Arabic numerals and generous luminous material for exceptional readability in any lighting condition.
Built to military specifications with a thick case, screw-locked crown, and 300 meters of water resistance, this Breitling Avenger collection is designed for extreme reliability. The watch is powered by the Breitling Caliber 32, based on the ETA 2893-2, offering proven performance with COSC certification. Available in stainless steel and DLC-coated titanium, the Avenger GMT appeals to those who need a watch that can handle anything while maintaining sophisticated GMT functionality.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Caliber 32 (automatic GMT, based on ETA 2893-2) |
| Case Size | 44mm |
| Water Resistance | 300 meters (30 bar) |
| Signature Features | GMT function, 24-hour bezel, military-grade construction, exceptional legibility |
| Retail Price | $5,350 to $6,200+ depending on configuration |
| Pre-Owned Market | $3,800 to $4,800+ for models in good condition |
The Versatile Daily Wearer: Superocean Automatic 42
The Superocean Automatic 42 offers the perfect balance of dive watch capability and everyday wearability. At 42mm, this model sits comfortably on a wider range of wrist sizes while maintaining serious diving credentials with 300 meters of water resistance. The watch features a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, and highly legible dial with bold hour markers and hands coated in Super-LumiNova.
What makes the Superocean Automatic 42 particularly appealing is its range of colorful dial and strap options, from classic black and blue to vibrant yellow, green, and orange. These bright configurations have made the watch popular among younger collectors and those seeking a more casual sports watch aesthetic. The Breitling Caliber 17 movement provides reliable automatic operation with COSC certification, while the variety of rubber strap options enhances the watch’s sporty, contemporary character.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Caliber 17 (automatic, based on ETA 2824-2) |
| Case Size | 42mm |
| Water Resistance | 300 meters (30 bar) |
| Signature Features | Unidirectional bezel, vibrant color options, rubber strap variations, compact size |
| Retail Price | $4,400 to $4,900+ depending on configuration |
| Pre-Owned Market | $3,000 to $3,800+ for modern references |
The Elegant Complication: Premier B09 Chronograph 40
The Premier B09 Chronograph 40 represents Breitling’s haute horlogerie capabilities, featuring a sophisticated split-seconds (rattrapante) chronograph complication. This Breitling Premier watch demonstrates that the brand’s expertise extends far beyond tool watches into the realm of fine watchmaking. The 40mm case, with its slim profile and polished finishes, makes it suitable for formal occasions and business attire.
The Caliber B09 movement is based on Breitling’s flagship B01 with the addition of a rattrapante module, allowing the wearer to time two events that start simultaneously but finish at different times. The vintage-inspired design includes a pulsometer scale on the dial, elegant curved lugs, and the option of alligator leather straps. With its classic aesthetic and advanced complication, the Premier B09 appeals to collectors who appreciate traditional watchmaking presented in a refined package.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09 (automatic rattrapante chronograph) |
| Case Size | 40mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters (10 bar) |
| Signature Features | Split-seconds chronograph, pulsometer scale, vintage-inspired design, alligator strap |
| Retail Price | $13,950 to $16,500+ depending on materials |
| Pre-Owned Market | $10,500 to $13,000+ depending on condition |
The Lightweight Performer: Endurance Pro
The Endurance Pro represents Breitling’s most accessible and innovative sports watch, designed specifically for athletes and active lifestyles. What sets this watch apart is its ultra-lightweight construction, featuring a 44mm case made from Breitlight, a proprietary polymer that’s lighter than titanium and highly resistant to scratches, corrosion, and temperature variations. The entire watch weighs just 35 grams, making it virtually disappear on the wrist during physical activity.
The Endurance Pro features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a pulsometer scale for measuring heart rate, a chronograph function, and vibrant dial colors including red, blue, yellow, orange, and white. Powered by the Breitling Caliber 82, a SuperQuartz movement that’s ten times more accurate than standard quartz and COSC-certified, this watch delivers precision without the maintenance requirements of mechanical movements. The rubber Diver Pro strap with tang buckle ensures comfort during intense activities, making this watch ideal for runners, cyclists, and fitness enthusiasts.
Key Specifications:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Movement | Breitling Caliber 82 (SuperQuartz thermocompensated) |
| Case Size | 44mm |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters (10 bar) |
| Signature Features | Breitlight case, ultra-lightweight (35g), pulsometer bezel, SuperQuartz accuracy, vibrant colors |
| Retail Price | $3,000 to $3,400+ depending on color |
| Pre-Owned Market | $2,200 to $2,800+ for models in good condition |
Breitling Investments: New, Pre-Owned, and What to Avoid
Buying a Breitling is more than a purchase. It’s an investment. Knowing what drives value can help you make smarter decisions, whether you’re buying new or adding a vintage pre-owned watch to your collection.
Which Breitling Holds Value Best?
Some Breitling watches simply hold their value better than others. The Navitimer sits at the top. It’s the brand’s flagship model and has been in steady production since 1952. Vintage Navitimers from the 1950s and 1960s, particularly those that have an AOPA logo, command the highest prices at auction.
Scarcity drives value. Limited editions and short production runs often see stronger resale prices simply because fewer exist. Chronomat models, especially those from the 1980s and 1990s, also maintain steady value due to their historical significance in reviving the art of mechanical watchmaking.
Condition plays a critical role, also, where watches with original boxes, papers, and service history trade hands for a premium. Unpolished cases with sharp edges and original finishes are more desirable to serious collectors.
For a more detailed analysis of Breitling value retention and investment potential, visit our comprehensive article on Do Breitling Watches Hold Their Value.
New vs. Pre-Owned Breitling
Deciding between a new or pre-owned Breitling comes down to what you value most: factory-fresh exclusivity or the history and savings of a pre-owned watch.
| New Breitling | Pre-Owned Breitling | |
| Price | Higher | Lower |
| Condition | Mint | Varies |
| Warranty | Full factory warranty | May have a limited or no warranty |
| Selection | Current models | Wider selection of vintage and discontinued models |
| Value | Initial depreciation | May hold value better over time |
Buying new means a full warranty and the satisfaction of being the first to wear it, though you’ll pay for that privilege. New Breitling watches typically experience 20-30% depreciation once they leave the boutique.
The pre-owned market has many advantages: lower prices and access to discontinued models and vintage watches no longer in production. Not to mention, someone else has absorbed the initial depreciation. Many collectors prefer vintage Breitling watches for their historical significance and unique design details.
Finding Your Perfect Breitling Timepiece
The best Breitling for you depends on what you value most: heritage, function, or sheer presence on the wrist. Regardless of whether you are attracted to the timeless elegance of the Navitimer, the tool-like functionality of the Superocean, or the sophisticated style of the Premier, there’s a Breitling timepiece for you. By taking into account the issues we’ve discussed in this Breitling buying guide, you can make an informed decision and pick a watch that you’ll treasure for a lifetime.
At Bob’s Watches, every Breitling we sell, new or pre-owned, is carefully authenticated by our in-house experts. Our inventory ranges from vintage favorites to current releases. Take a look through our Breitling collection and find the one that fits your style best.
