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BOB’S WATCHES

ROLEX BLOG

Rolex Bracelets – Bob’s Watches Official Guide

November 19, 2019

BY Paul Altieri

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It’s one thing to have certain watch models that are so famous that they are recognizable just by their names. Think of the Submariner, Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Speedmaster – just to name a few. You don’t need someone to mention the brand’s name, to know that a “Sub” is probably referencing a Rolex Submariner – and the same goes for the rest of these industry-icons. Anyone who has even a passing interest in luxury watches can envision the watch designs in their mind with a mere mention of these names.

In case there was any doubt as to the power of Rolex’s brand, take a moment to browse through the catalog and see how many names you recognize. No, not the watch catalog (that would be too obvious). I’m talking about the world-famous line-up of bracelets that are themselves better known than most rivals’ flagship references (it can be hard being anyone but Rolex, sometimes).

Rolex Oyster Bracelet - Bob's Watches official guide

Just like Rolex watches, Rolex bracelets have their own names, distinct design languages, histories, and marketing campaigns. No other luxury brand celebrates the watch bracelet as intensely as Rolex. Drop the names Oyster, Jubilee, and President, and people who know watches know what these Rolex bracelets look like.

Similar to other watch components like cases, movements, and dials, Rolex bracelets have also evolved over the years, along with some new designs joining familiar favorites. To make sense of it all, here’s our official guide to different Rolex bracelets.

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The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

What hasn’t already been said about the Jubilee? It is a classic (perhaps the classic) bracelet in not just the Rolex catalog, but perhaps the entire industry. To celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary in 1945, Rolex introduced the Datejust as the world’s first chronometer wristwatch to feature a date window on the dial. Accompanying the new watch was a new bracelet, which Rolex aptly named the Jubilee to emphasize the commemorations.

The Jubilee bracelet was Rolex’s first in-house bracelet in an era when many others were simply fitting their watches with existing bracelet styles from specialists around the world. It featured a five-piece link design comprised of three rows of small center links flanked by two rows of larger links. It is one of the dressier styles of Rolex bracelets, and it is currently available in a bevy of metal options and sizes, although at the time of its initial release, it was exclusively offered in solid gold.

Jubilee Rolex Bracelet guide

The Jubilee bracelet has continued to be a mainstay in the Datejust collection; however, the sportier GMT-Master has also been paired with the Jubilee bracelet at various points throughout its history. The decision to democratize the Jubilee followed the release of the President bracelet, which took over the role of Rolex’s flagship bracelet style. The President bracelet promised to offer a new style of luxury bracelet, tailor-made for Rolex’s top-end pieces and opened the door for the Jubilee to be rolled out on sportier models like the GMT Master family.

While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant that it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists – a standard practice in horology back in the day. Some Rolex bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links.

Rolex Bracelets - Jubilee information bob's official guide

Jubilee Link Designs

  • Swiss-Made Folded Link
  • Estimated Manufacturing Years: 1950s – 1970s
  • Made in USA/Mexican Oval Link
  • Swiss-Made D Link
  • Estimated Manufacturing Years: 1970s – 2000s
  • Swiss-Made Solid Link
  • Estimated Manufacturing Years: 2000s – Present

Today, Rolex makes the Jubilee bracelet in steel, three shades of gold, and two-tone steel and gold. There are also different sized Jubilee bracelets to accommodate a variety of case sizes. The last number in any Rolex bracelet code represent the material:

  • 0 = Steel
  • 1 = Rose Gold & Steel
  • 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
  • 5 = Rose Gold
  • 6 = Platinum
  • 8 = Yellow Gold
  • 9 = White Gold

learn about Jubilee Rolex bracelets

Jubilee Bracelet Codes

  • 63130, 63131, 63133
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 13mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Lady-Datejust 26
  • 63160, 63161, 63163
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 16mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 31
  • 63345, 63348, 63341
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 14mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Lady-Datejust 28
  • 63600, 63601, 63603, 63608, 62803, 62800
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 36
  • 62613
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 41
  • 69200
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex GMT-Master II

Rolex bracelets - Jubilee

 

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

It may come as a surprise to learn that the Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex collection for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it’s important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s (who Rolex eventually acquired in 1998).

Rolex Oyster Bracelets information

The Rolex Oyster bracelet is a three-piece link metal bracelet, characterized by wider center links bordered by two rows of slimmer links. The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat, but similar to the Jubilee bracelet, the links have also evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links, and many of the alterations to the Oyster made through the years are imperceptible to the naked eye. However, as an industry innovator, Rolex is constantly refining their designs through marginal gains in every possible area, including that of a rarely criticized bracelet.

With that in mind, the very first Rolex Oyster bracelets look quite different from the contemporary version and didn’t start to resemble the popular configuration until end-links were first added to the bracelet used on the original GMT Master, which appeared in the mid-1950s. Over the years, the “rivet” style links would be replaced by a thicker “folded” style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.

Rolex Bracelets Guide Oyster

Oyster link Types

  • Riveted and expandable links
    • Bracelet Code: 6635/6636
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm/20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1954
  • Riveted
    • Bracelet Code: 7205/7206
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm/20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1954
  • Folded
    • Bracelet Code: 7835/7836
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm/20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1967
  • Folded with Diver Clasp
    • Bracelet Code: 9315
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1969
  • Folded with Diver Clasp
    • Bracelet Code: 9316
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm (Sea-Dweller)
    • Introduction Year: 1969
  • Solid
    • Bracelet Code: 78350/78360
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm/20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1975
  • Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)
    • Bracelet Code: 93150
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1975
  • Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)
    • Bracelet Code: 93160
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Introduction Year: 1978

Today, the Oyster bracelet is the most widely used bracelet style found in Rolex’s lineup, and it is available in almost all Rolex watch collections. Furthermore, Rolex has made the Oyster bracelet in every metal used by the company: steel, three different shades of gold, two-tone steel and gold, and platinum.

Rolex Bracelets - Oyster

Oyster Bracelet Codes

  • 70130
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 13mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26
  • 70160
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 16mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31
  • 70190
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34
  • 70200
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
  • 70400
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39
  • 72130, 72131, 72133
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 13mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Lady-Datejust 26
  • 72340, 72341, 72343
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 14mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Lady-Datejust 28
  • 72160, 72161-, 2163 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 16mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 31
  • 73168
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 16mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 31
  • 72190
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 19mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 34
  • 72600, 72601, 72603
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 36
  • 72801, 72803, 72800
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 36
  • 72210,  72213
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust II
  • 72610, 72611
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Datejust 41
  • 73205, 73208, 73209
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Day-Date 36
  • 73605
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Day-Date 36
  • 72415, 72418, 72419, 72223, 72220 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Sky-Dweller
  • 72400
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Milgauss
  • 77200 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Explorer 39
  • 77210 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Explorer II
  • 71200 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Air-King 40
  • 78200, 78203, 78208, 78209, 79201, 79205 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex GMT-Master II
  • 78210, 78211, 78218, 78219 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Yacht-Master II
  • 78590, 78593, 78595, 78596, 78598, 78599
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Daytona
  • 78740, 78743, 78750, 78753 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 17mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Yacht-Master 35
  • 78763, 78800 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Yacht-Master 40
  • 97200 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Submariner
  • 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Submariner Date
  • 97400 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Sea-Dweller 40
  • 97220, 97223 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 22mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Sea-Dweller 43
  • 98210 
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Deepsea
  • 98220
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 22mm
    • Watch Model: Rolex Deepsea

Rolex Bracelets - Oyster

 

The Rolex President Bracelet

After a decade of the Datejust, Rolex introduced yet another dress watch in 1956 in the form of the Day-Date. Not only was this the first automatic wristwatch to include a window for the date and a window for the day written in full on the dial, but the Day-Date was positioned as the new flagship luxury watch from the brand. The new timepiece was exclusively made in precious metals and it came fitted with a brand new bracelet dubbed the President.

The Rolex President bracelet is a three-piece link metal bracelet with semi-circular shaped links. The center links are wider while the links in the two outer rows are thinner. The President bracelet has only ever been fitted to Day-Date watches and some precious metal Lady-Datejust and mid-size Datejust models. Today, President Rolex bracelets are produced in yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, and platinum.

Rolex Bracelets - Day-Date President

Although the official name of this bracelet makes it sound like it was named after a president or presidents that wore the style (and many believe that it was), it turned out to be a prophetic statement of intent. The President bracelet was designed for and released on the Day-Date model in 1956. Before this, President Eisenhower had been known for wearing a solid gold Datejust model on a Jubilee bracelet, which may have given the Rolex namers the idea, but while Eisenhower is often credited as the first president to wear the style, it was never his preferred model.

It was Lyndon B. Johnson, who is often credited with giving the Rolex President bracelet its name, but his association with the Day-Date model (in yellow gold, on the President bracelet, naturally) actually inspired the entire range to be nicknamed “the President’s watch”, eventually shortening to the Rolex “President” (especially in North America) soon after. Therefore, the President bracelet is special not just because it is (and always has been) exclusively crafted from precious metals, but also for the fact that it effectively nicknamed an entire watch collection, rather than the bracelet being nicknamed after the watch!

Guide Gold Rolex President Bracelet Straps

President Bracelet Codes

  • 83165, 83168, 83169, 83369, 83368, 83365
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 16mm
    • Watch Model: Datejust 31
  • 83205, 83206, 83208, 83209, 83408, 83405, 83409
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Day-Date 36
  • 83345, 83346, 83348
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 14mm
    • Watch Model: Lady-Datejust 28
  • 83415, 83416, 83418, 83419
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 21mm
    • Watch Model: Day-Date 40

Rolex bracelets - President

 

The Rolex Pearlmaster Bracelet

In 1992, Rolex unveiled a new watch model called the Pearlmaster and following a similar pattern to previous Rolex dress watch launches, the watch came fitted with a brand new style of bracelet with the same name.

The Rolex Pearlmaster bracelet is a five-piece link metal bracelet with slightly rounded flat links. Center links are the widest edged by two pairs of slimmer links. Like the President bracelet, Pearlmaster Rolex bracelets are always made from gold or platinum, and is often set with diamonds and other precious gemstones.

While the Pearlmaster’s home is the Pearlmaster watch collection, in the 2000s, Rolex did make some special edition Day-Date “Masterpiece” watches fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets. This explains why in some circles the Pearlmaster bracelet is called the Masterpiece bracelet.

Rolex Bracelets - Pearlmaster

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes

  • 72845, 72848, 72849
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 17mm
    • Watch Model: Pearlmaster 34
  • 44745, 42745, 42749
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Pearlmaster 39

Pearlmaster Rolex Bracelets

 

The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

At Baselworld 2015, Rolex announced a new version of the Yacht-Master in Everose gold. Not only was this the first time Rolex used its proprietary pink gold alloy in the Yacht-Master collection, but the watch came fitted with a brand new style of bracelet dubbed the Oysterflex.

At first glance, Oysterflex Rolex bracelets just looks like standard black rubber straps. However, the Oysterflex bracelet is far more complex than it initially appears – it is comprised of a titanium and nickel alloy metal blade at its core, that is then wrapped with black elastomer. For comfort, airflow, and stability, the underside of the band includes cushion segments to lift the rubber surface slightly above the skin.

There are two widths for the Oysterflex bracelets and each side of the bracelet comes in six different lengths, which are categorized from letters C to H. Rolex currently only pairs the Oysterflex bracelet with solid gold versions of the Yacht-Master and Daytona.

Rolex Bracelets Oysterflex

Oysterflex Bracelet Codes

  • 350557
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 20mm
    • Watch Model: Yacht-Master 40, Daytona
  • 350501
    • Bracelet End Link Width: 18mm
    • Watch Model: Yacht-Master 37

Yacht-Master Oysterflex Size Codes

  • Wrist Size: 122mm – 132mm
    • 6 o’clock side: C
    • 12 o’clock side: D
  • Wrist Size: 132mm – 140mm
    • 6 o’clock side: C
    • 12 o’clock side: E
  • Wrist Size: 140mm – 152mm
    • 6 o’clock side: D
    • 12 o’clock side: E
  • Wrist Size: 152mm – 162mm
    • 6 o’clock side: D
    • 12 o’clock side: F
  • Wrist Size: 162mm – 173mm
    • 6 o’clock side: E
    • 12 o’clock side: F
  • Wrist Size: 173mm – 183mm
    • 6 o’clock side: E
    • 12 o’clock side: G
  • Wrist Size: 183mm – 193mm
    • 6 o’clock side: F
    • 12 o’clock side: G
  • Wrist Size: 193mm – 204mm
    • 6 o’clock side: F
    • 12 o’clock side: H
  • Wrist Size: 204mm – 215mm
    • 6 o’clock side: G
    • 12 o’clock side: H
  • Wrist Size: 215mm – 224mm
    • 6 o’clock side: H
    • 12 o’clock side: H

Daytona Oysterflex Size Codes

  • Wrist Size: 128mm – 138mm
    • 6 o’clock side: C
    • 12 o’clock side: D
  • Wrist Size: 138mm – 150mm
    • 6 o’clock side: C
    • 12 o’clock side: E
  • Wrist Size: 150mm – 159mm
    • 6 o’clock side: D
    • 12 o’clock side: E
  • Wrist Size: 159mm – 170mm
    • 6 o’clock side: D
    • 12 o’clock side: F
  • Wrist Size: 170mm – 180mm
    • 6 o’clock side: E
    • 12 o’clock side: F
  • Wrist Size: 180mm – 191mm
    • 6 o’clock side: E
    • 12 o’clock side: G
  • Wrist Size: 191mm – 202mm
    • 6 o’clock side: F
    • 12 o’clock side: G
  • Wrist Size: 202mm – 213mm
    • 6 o’clock side: F
    • 12 o’clock side: H
  • Wrist Size: 213mm – 225mm
    • 6 o’clock side: G
    • 12 o’clock side: H
  • Wrist Size: 225mm – 234mm
    • 6 o’clock side: H
    • 12 o’clock side: H

Rolex Bracelets Oysterflex

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