Rolex Bracelets Explained: Oyster, Jubilee, President, Pearlmaster and Oysterflex


Rolex makes five bracelets: the Oyster, the Jubilee, the President, the Pearlmaster, and the Oysterflex. Every Rolex you will ever handle wears one of those five, a factory leather strap, or something that did not come from Rolex. At Bob's Watches, we handle pre-owned Rolex watches every day, and one lesson comes up again and again: people underestimate the bracelet most. It is the first thing you feel, the first thing that wears, and the thing that quietly decides whether you reach for the watch every morning.

Key takeaways

  • The five Rolex bracelets are the Oyster (three-piece links, sport models), the Jubilee (five-piece links, created for the Datejust in 1945), the President (semi-circular links, gold or platinum only, created for the Day-Date in 1956), the Pearlmaster (jewelry-style, five-piece links), and the Oysterflex (elastomer over metal blades, introduced in 2015).
  • The Oyster is by far the most common. Based on our sales data from November 2025 through October 8, 2026, approximately 63% of the Rolex watches we sold had an Oyster bracelet, including vintage variations, while roughly 26% had a Jubilee.
  • Rolex does not publish bracelet-only prices and, in our experience, authorized dealers generally do not sell a bracelet on its own. Rolex service is the route for a worn bracelet, and buying a pre-owned watch that already wears the bracelet you want is often the simpler path.
  • Most genuine bracelets carry a reference number and an end-link code stamped into the metal. Matching those codes to your watch is the fastest compatibility check you can do yourself, but codes can be copied, so they are a first pass, not proof.
  • A tired or non-original bracelet is one of the most common reasons a Rolex sells for less than it should, so the bracelet deserves the same attention as the dial and the case.

This guide covers what each Rolex bracelet is, how to tell a genuine one from an aftermarket copy, how the bracelet affects the watch's value, and what it takes to get a replacement.

The 5 Rolex Bracelets at a Glance

Bracelet Introduced Links and where you find it
Oyster Late 1930s Flat three-piece links; Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer, Daytona, Datejust, Oyster Perpetual
Jubilee 1945 Five-piece links, polished center; Datejust, steel GMT-Master II since 2018
President 1956 Semi-circular three-piece links, gold or platinum only; Day-Date and select Lady-Datejust
Pearlmaster 1992 Rounded five-piece links, gold, often gem-set; Pearlmaster
Oysterflex 2015 Elastomer over metal blades; gold Yacht-Master, Daytona, Sky-Dweller

The Oyster Bracelet

rolex bracelets

The Oyster is the bracelet most people picture when they think of a Rolex: flat, three-piece links, a wide center link, and a brushed top. Rolex traces its development to the late 1930s, and it has been the standard bracelet on the Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, Daytona, and most of the sport line ever since. I recommend it to anyone who wants one watch to wear every day without thinking about it.

The Oyster has changed more than any other Rolex bracelet, and our experts use those changes to date one on sight. Early riveted versions with hollow links gave way to folded links, then solid links, and finally the current solid-link bracelets. The clasp depends on the model: the Submariner and other sport models use the Oysterlock safety clasp, the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual use the simpler Oysterclasp, most references add the Easylink 5 mm extension, and the Submariner and Sea-Dweller use the tool-free Glidelock instead (paired with the Fliplock extension on the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea). A riveted Oyster on a 1960s Submariner and a solid-link Oyster on a current one share a name and a silhouette and almost nothing else.

Oyster Bracelet Link Types And Introduction Years

Oyster bracelet code

Link type and end-link width

Approximate introduction

6635 / 6636

Riveted and expandable, 19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7205 / 7206

Riveted, 19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7835 / 7836

Folded, 19 mm / 20 mm

1967

9315

Folded with diver clasp, 20 mm

1969

9316

Folded with diver clasp, 20 mm (Sea-Dweller)

1969

78350 / 78360

Solid, 19 mm / 20 mm

1975

93150

Solid with diver clasp, 20 mm

1975

93160

Solid with diver clasp, 20 mm

1978

Introduction years are collector-community estimates compiled from clasp date codes and catalog appearances; Rolex publishes no bracelet-code list.

Oyster Bracelet Codes, End-Link Width, And Watch Model

Oyster bracelet code

End-link width

Rolex watch model

70130

13 mm

Oyster Perpetual 26

70160

16 mm

Oyster Perpetual 31

70190

19 mm

Oyster Perpetual 34

70200

20 mm

Oyster Perpetual 36

70400

20 mm

Oyster Perpetual 39

72130, 72131, 72133, 74138, 74139

13 mm

Lady-Datejust 26

72340, 72341, 72343

14 mm

Lady-Datejust 28

72160, 72161, 72163

16 mm

Datejust 31

73168

16 mm

Datejust 31

72190

19 mm

Oyster Perpetual Date 34

72600, 72601, 72603

20 mm

Datejust 36

72801, 72803, 72800

20 mm

Datejust 36

78360

20 mm

Datejust 36, GMT-Master II, Explorer II (five-digit references)

72210, 72213

21 mm

Datejust II

72610, 72611

21 mm

Datejust 41

73205, 73208, 73209

20 mm

Day-Date 36

73605

20 mm

Day-Date 36

72415, 72418, 72419, 72223, 72220

21 mm

Sky-Dweller

72400

20 mm

Milgauss

77200

20 mm

Explorer 39 (discontinued)

77210

21 mm

Explorer II

71200

20 mm

Air-King 40

78200, 78203, 78208, 78209, 79201, 79205

20 mm

GMT-Master II

78210, 78211, 78218, 78219

21 mm

Yacht-Master II

78590, 78593, 78595, 78596, 78598, 78599

20 mm

Cosmograph Daytona

78740, 78743, 78750, 78753

17 mm

Yacht-Master 35 (discontinued)

78763, 78800

20 mm

Yacht-Master 40

97200

20 mm

Submariner

97200, 97203, 97208, 97209

20 mm

Submariner Date

93150, 93250

20 mm

Submariner Date (five-digit references)

97400

20 mm

Sea-Dweller 40

97220, 97223

22 mm

Sea-Dweller 43

98210

21 mm

Deepsea

98220

22 mm

Deepsea

The Oyster is also the bracelet we handle most. As noted above, approximately 63 percent of the Rolex watches we sold in the past year were on an Oyster, which reflects how much of the Rolex catalog wears one. If you are comparing two watches and one is on a replacement Oyster, start with the reference number stamped on the clasp and the code on the end links, because an Oyster that fits a 40 mm Submariner will not fit a 36 mm Datejust. A wrong-generation bracelet on a vintage watch is a value question, not just a fit question.

The Jubilee Bracelet

rolex bracelets

The Jubilee is the dress bracelet of the lineup and, in my opinion, the most comfortable bracelet Rolex makes. Rolex launched it in 1945 to mark 40 years of the company and created it specifically for the Rolex Datejust, which debuted the same year. The five-piece link design, two wide satin-finished outer links flanking three narrow polished center links, drapes over the wrist in a way the flatter Oyster cannot. On a Datejust it is the choice most buyers make, and I understand why.

The Jubilee was created for the Datejust, but it has a long history on the GMT-Master too. Steel GMT-Master references such as the 1675 were sold on a Jubilee from the 1960s onward, and the five-digit GMT-Master II was also available on one. The modern six-digit steel GMT-Master II launched only on an Oyster, so when Rolex put the steel "Pepsi," reference 126710BLRO, on a Jubilee with the Oysterlock clasp and Easylink extension in 2018, it was a return rather than a first. It made the Jubilee fashionable again on a watch most buyers had been choosing on an Oyster. Rolex has since offered the steel GMT-Master II on either bracelet, so the choice is yours.

That choice shows up in the pre-owned prices above: on the stainless steel GMT-Master II 126720VTNR, the Jubilee version sold for more than the Oyster version. My take: if you wear your GMT-Master II watches daily rather than on occasion as a travel tool, the Jubilee is the better everyday bracelet. It is more flexible, conforms to the wrist, and the polished center links dress the watch up without a strap change.

Jubilee Link Designs And Estimated Manufacturing Years

Jubilee link design

Estimated manufacturing years

Swiss-made folded link

1950s to 1970s

Made in USA or Mexico oval link

1950s to 1970s

Swiss-made D link

1970s to 2000s

Swiss-made solid link

2000s to present

Jubilee bracelet codes, end-link width, and watch model

Jubilee bracelet code

End-link width

Rolex watch model

63130, 63131, 63133

13 mm

Lady-Datejust 26

63345, 63348, 63341

14 mm

Lady-Datejust 28

63160, 63161, 63163, 64169

16 mm

Datejust 31

63600, 63601, 63603, 63608, 62803, 62800

20 mm

Datejust 36

62613

21 mm

Datejust 41

62510H, 62523

20 mm

Datejust 36 (five-digit references)

69200

20 mm

GMT-Master II

If you want a Datejust or GMT-Master II on a Jubilee, the simplest route is to buy one that already wears it. See our pre-owned Datejust collection and GMT-Master II inventory, where the bracelet is listed with every watch.

The President Bracelet

rolex bracelets

Rolex unveiled the President bracelet in 1956 on the Day-Date, and it has never been made in steel. Rolex produces it only in 18 kt gold and 950 platinum, with semi-circular three-piece links that combine polished and satin finishes, and it closes with a concealed Crownclasp that leaves nothing but the coronet visible on the wrist. Rolex named the bracelet the President from the start; the Day-Date took the same nickname from the bracelet and from the heads of state who wore it. The Day-Date is still its home, though Rolex also fits the Rolex President to select gold and platinum Lady-Datejust models.

Because it is solid precious metal, the President is the bracelet where condition matters most to value. Gold is soft, and a President worn hard for thirty years shows it: stretched links, rounded edges, and a clasp that no longer sits flush. When our team evaluates a Day-Date, the bracelet can move the offer as much as the dial does. A tight, correct President on an older Day-Date is a real find, and our offer reflects it.

President Bracelet Codes, End-Link Width, And Watch Model

President bracelet code

End-link width

Rolex watch model

83135, 83136, 83138, 83139

13 mm

Lady-Datejust 26

83345, 83346, 83348

14 mm

Lady-Datejust 28

83165, 83168, 83169, 83369, 83368, 83365, 84166, 84168

16 mm

Datejust 31

83205, 83206, 83208, 83209, 83408, 83405, 83409, 84206, 84208, 84209

20 mm

Day-Date 36

83415, 83416, 83418, 83419

21 mm

Day-Date 40

83215, 83216, 83218, 83219

21 mm

Day-Date II

See our Rolex Day-Date guide for which President references match each case size and generation.

The Pearlmaster And The Oysterquartz Integrated Bracelet

Rolex launched the Pearlmaster bracelet in 1992 for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches. It uses five-piece links like the Jubilee, but the links are rounded and fully polished; it is made in 18 kt yellow, white, or Everose gold and, on a few references, in platinum , and it closes with a concealed folding Crownclasp. Diamond-set versions run from a few set links to full pavé. In the 2000s, some 39 mm Day-Date "Masterpiece" editions wore Pearlmaster-style bracelets, which Rolex's catalog labeled "Oyster Special Edition." It is the rarest of the five bracelets to see on the pre-owned market, and the one least likely to be swapped onto another watch, because it was built for the Rolex Pearlmaster case alone.

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End-Link Qidth, And Watch Model

rolex bracelets

Pearlmaster bracelet code

End-link width

Rolex watch model

72845, 72848, 72849

17 mm

Pearlmaster 34

44745, 42745, 42749

20 mm

Pearlmaster 39

72746, 72748, 74746

20 mm

Day-Date "Special Edition" Masterpiece

In 1977, Rolex introduced a range of Oysterquartz watches powered by in-house quartz calibers. The Oysterquartz, produced into the early 2000s and now discontinued, is the one Rolex with an integrated bracelet, meaning the bracelet flows directly into the angular case with no separate end links. It cannot be fitted to any other Rolex, and the watch cannot wear any other bracelet. If you own one, treat the bracelet as part of the case: a damaged Oysterquartz bracelet is a much harder problem to solve than a damaged Oyster.

Oysterquartz References And Their Integrated Bracelets (Discontinued)

rolex bracelets

Oysterquartz reference

Style

Rolex watch model

17010, 17000B

Steel Oyster

Oysterquartz Datejust

17013, 17013B

Two-tone Jubilee

Oysterquartz Datejust

19018, 19028

Yellow gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

19019

White gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

The Oysterflex Bracelet And Rolex Leather Straps

rolex bracelets

Rolex introduced the Oysterflex in 2015 on the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40 and 37, and it is the only Rolex "strap" that Rolex itself calls a bracelet. The reason is what is inside: two flexible metal blades overmoulded in black elastomer, with cushions on the underside that hold the watch in place. It has the flexibility of a rubber strap with the support of metal blades inside, and Rolex has reserved it for gold cases, including the Yacht-Master, Daytona, and Sky-Dweller, as of 2026. The brand has never offered Rolex Oysterflex watches on a steel model, so a steel Rolex on a black rubber strap is likely using an aftermarket strap, not an Oysterflex.

Rolex leather straps are a different story. Rolex supplied leather straps, usually with a gold or steel folding clasp, on dress models such as the Cellini and on some Datejust and Day-Date references, and it still does: the current Perpetual 1908 comes on an alligator leather strap with a double folding Dualclasp. Rolex has offered leather straps on certain gold references over the years, and most of the factory leather straps we see come in on 36 mm cases. A genuine Rolex leather strap is stamped with the Rolex name and a reference on the underside and is sized to a specific lug width, most commonly 20 mm on a 36 mm case.

How A Bracelet Affects The Value Of A Rolex

rolex bracelets

We sell complete watches, not bracelets, so the question we can answer with real numbers is: how much does the bracelet change a Rolex's value? Material is the biggest driver. A steel Oyster or Jubilee adds the least, two-tone sits in the middle, and a solid gold or platinum bracelet can make up a large share of the watch's value.

Four things decide how much a bracelet adds to or takes from a watch's price, and our buying team weighs them in this order:

  1. Originality. A watch on the bracelet it left the factory with, including the correct end links and the right clasp for its reference, generally sells for more than the same watch on a replacement, even a genuine one, because originality is the first thing an experienced buyer checks.
  2. Stretch and wear. Older hollow-link Oyster and Jubilee bracelets stretch over decades of wear. A tight example commands a premium; a stretched one needs a specialist to tighten and sometimes cannot be saved, and the price reflects that.
  3. Material. On a two-tone or solid gold watch, the bracelet is a large part of the metal weight, so its condition moves the number more than it does on a steel watch.
  4. Parts integrity. We want to see a bracelet with the original clasp blade, intact spring bars, and no replaced links when a watch comes in.

"People spend months choosing the dial and about five seconds thinking about the bracelet. Then they wonder why two of the same watch are priced two thousand dollars apart. The bracelet is usually the answer. When a Rolex comes across our desk, its condition is the first thing we check, and it is the first thing that changes our number."

Carol Altieri, COO, Bob's Watches

Genuine vs. Aftermarket: How To Verify A Real Rolex Bracelet

rolex bracelets

Search for a Rolex bracelet today, and the shopping results fill with "Rolex-style" and "fits Rolex" bands for a fraction of what a genuine one costs. Some are honest aftermarket straps. Some are copies built to pass as the real thing, and some of those end up on watches offered for sale. Our experts have handled a great many of both, and these are some of the checks they run.

  1. Find the bracelet reference number. On most Rolex bracelets, it is stamped on the inside of the clasp, on the blade or the clasp cover, though the exact markings vary by generation. Common examples are 78360 and 93250 for Oyster bracelets and 62510H for a Jubilee. Look the number up in the reference tables on this page and confirm it belongs to your model and case size. Keep in mind that a correct number only tells you the bracelet is the right type for the watch; counterfeiters copy real reference numbers, so the number alone proves nothing.
  2. Check the end links. The small curved pieces that join the bracelet to the case carry their own stamped code, such as 580 or 501B. The end-link code has to match the bracelet reference and the case. A mismatch means the bracelet was assembled from parts, and that affects both fit and value.
  3. Read the clasp code. Rolex stamped a production date code inside the clasp for decades. Depending on the period, the code points to the approximate year and month or quarter the clasp was made; more recent clasp codes don't follow the same system and cannot be dated using the old charts. On a vintage watch, the code should be reasonably consistent with the watch's age, and a mismatch usually means a genuine replacement bracelet, which is fine if it is disclosed. Our Rolex clasp guide walks through the codes.
  4. Feel the weight and the finishing. Solid-link Rolex bracelets have a density most copies don't match. Brushing runs in one direction and stops cleanly at polished edges. Links pivot without side play. Hollow-link copies rattle and feel light.
  5. Test the clasp. An Oysterlock or Crownclasp closes with a precise, damped click and no sharp edges. The engraving on the clasp cover is crisp and even. Cheap copies have shallow, uneven engraving and a clasp that snaps rather than clicks.

None of these checks alone proves a bracelet is genuine, but a bracelet that fails any of them is one we may walk away from. When in doubt, buy from a seller who guarantees authenticity.

Frequently Asked Questions

Rolex makes five: the Oyster, the Jubilee, the President, the Pearlmaster, and the Oysterflex. Those are Rolex's names. In everyday use, "band" usually means any metal bracelet and "strap" means leather, rubber, or fabric, and we use the words that way on this page.

Yes, on the pre-owned market, through dealers who handle loose bracelets and through private sales; Rolex does not sell them on their own, and Bob's Watches sells complete watches only. See the section above for the details. If you do buy a loose bracelet elsewhere, get it with its end links and confirm the reference fits your case size, since a 36 mm and a 41 mm Datejust take different bracelets.

Only on watches. Rolex publishes no bracelet catalog or price list, and it replaces worn bracelets through its service network rather than selling them over the counter. That is why every bracelet price you find online is a pre-owned or aftermarket figure.

Open the clasp and look inside the clasp blade or on the underside of the clasp cover. The bracelet reference, such as 78360 or 62510H, is stamped there, and the end links carry a separate code where they meet the case. Match both against the reference tables on this page.

No. The serial number belongs to the watch, engraved between the lugs on older cases and on the inner bezel ring on current ones. A bracelet carries a reference number and, on older clasps, a production date code, and neither is unique: two genuine 78360 bracelets carry the same 78360 stamp. You can't trace a bracelet to a specific watch by its markings.

Yes, when Rolex offers that reference on both bracelets. The steel GMT-Master II 126710BLRO, 126710BLNR, and 126720VTNR and the Datejust 41 126300 and 126334 are all sold on either an Oyster or a Jubilee, so the correct Jubilee with its own end links fits those cases. For the references Rolex has never offered on a Jubilee, such as the Submariner, any Jubilee is an aftermarket fit, and we do not recommend it.

Hold the watch by the case with the bracelet hanging straight down and look at it from the side. A tight bracelet hangs in a smooth curve with the links touching; a stretched one shows gaps between the links and sags. Then hold it horizontally by the case and watch how far the bracelet droops; pronounced sag, visible gaps, and side-to-side play all point to wear. Hollow-link bracelets from the 1960s through the 1990s are the most prone to it, though solid-link bracelets can loosen over time too. An expert can tell you whether what you are seeing is normal or needs attention.

It depends on the reference. Rolex offers some models in both styles, such as the yellow gold Daytona on Oysterflex (126518LN) and on an Oyster bracelet (126508). Still, a shared case size doesn't guarantee the metal bracelet and its end links will fit, because end-link construction and case geometry can differ between references. Have a qualified Rolex expert confirm the fit before you buy a bracelet for the swap. If Rolex offers a reference only on Oysterflex, there is no factory metal bracelet for it. The Oysterflex already closes with a metal clasp, an Oysterlock or Oysterclasp depending on the model, so the clasp is not what changes.

In proportion to condition and completeness. A correct, tight original bracelet adds to a watch's price; a stretched or non-original one takes from it, and gold and platinum bracelets also carry metal value, which tends to support the price of a worn example without guaranteeing any minimum. In our experience, the bracelets that hold value best are the ones that stayed on the watch they came with.

Final Thoughts

I have watched the bracelet go from an afterthought to one of the first things a serious buyer asks about, and that is the right direction. The bracelet is the part of a Rolex you touch every day. Buy the right one, keep the original, and have it looked at when it starts to loosen.

If you are looking to add a watch to your collection, browse our pre-owned Rolex watches, where the bracelet type is listed with every watch. If you are thinking about selling a Rolex, tell us about your watch, and we will give you a straight number, bracelet included.

About Paul Altieri

Paul AltieriPaul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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