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Vintage of the Week: Vintage Tudor Submariner Reference 7928

February 11, 2014

BY Paul Altieri

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When it comes to vintage dive watches, it is hard to beat the sheer stability combined with elegance that is represented in the Tudor Submariner 7928.

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History of the Submariner 7928

tudor stainless submariner black bezel

Tudor Stainless Submariner Black Bezel

Tudor is actually a separate company that manufactures Rolex watches.  The pieces themselves are manufactured by Montres Tudor SA.  Original Rolex founder Hans Wildorf wanted to create a company that would create a product that as reliable and of as high a quality as the original Rolex but at a more affordable price.  Therefore, Tudor watches have always symbolized affordable, quality, and long-lasting wear.

A vintage tudor clasp bracelet at Bob's Watches.

A vintage Tudor clasp and stainless steel bracelet.

The Submariner is a great example of the Tudor commitment to style mingled with practicality.  The Submariner was designed as a dive watch and could withstand pressure from being underwater without being damaged.  Here is where the true difference of the Tudor and Rolex watches becomes negligible:  Tudor watches were required to meet very strict standards of quality in order to be sold by Rolex.  In fact, the only real difference between Tudor and Rolex was the type of movements.  Tudor used a modified version of the Rolex movements but the Submariner was still required to be water-resistant to a particular depth.

vintage tudor submariner crown

Crown of a Tudor Submariner 7928

The 7928, unlike earlier Tudors, was fitted with the Rolex calibre 390 17-jewel movement.  This movement is based on the Valjoux 722 automatic. The 7928 also used an identical bezel to the Rolex 5513 Submariner.  This watch was produced from the late 1950’s until 1966 when it was replaced by newer Tudor models.

The Details of the Tudor Submariner 7928

The early examples of the Reference 7928 featured a “chapter dial.”  This means that the inner ring is printed on the dial close to the edge and connecting the minute markers.  There are actually four different dial versions known of the 7928.

back stainless steel vintage tudor submariner

Back of a Stainless Steel Vintage Tudor Submariner Watch

No matter which dial is present on a 7928, the lower half is fairly uniform.  You should find the words “200 m=660 feet,” indicating the depth to which the watch is rated to be water-resistant.  There were also be the word SUBMARINER in all capitals and the words “Rotor” and “Self-winding” printed in curved script.  Some of the dials will feature tracks while others do not.   The Submariner also features wing-shaped protection for the winding crown which is rounded.

vintage tudor close up

Vintage Tudor Stainless Steel with a beautiful patina.

The Tudor Submariner is one watch that could be “faked,” so be sure to visit Bob’s Watches to find genuine Rolex and Tudor products and see their history.

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