The Breitling Superocean 44 is a newer version of the brand’s signature dive watch. One that’s certainly vintage-inspired and that trades professional tool-watch design codes for a slightly bolder personality. It’s inspired by the Slow Motion diver from the 1960s, down to the high-contrast minute ring and chunky hands. Meant for optimal underwater legibility and infused with colorful aesthetics, the upgraded 2022 model is perfect for anyone on the hunt for modern luxury dive watches.
Key Takeaways
- Heritage: Based on the Ref. 2005 “Slow Motion” diving chronograph
- Sizing: 44mm diameter that wears like a 42mm due to short 50.5mm lug-to-lug
- Movement: Powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Calibre 17 (Sellita or ETA)
- Clasp: Features a best-in-class 15mm on-the-fly micro-adjustment system
What should you know about the Superocean 44 before you buy? In this Breitling Superocean review, we’ll dive into the technical specs of the watch as well as wearability and the debate surrounding its movement.
Technical Specifications: At a Glance
| Feature | Specification | Key Detail |
| Case Size | 44mm x 12.6mm | Slim profile for a modern diver |
| Lug-to-Lug | 50.5mm | Fits 16cm+ wrists easily |
| Movement | Breitling Calibre 17 | COSC-Certified Chronometer |
| Water Resistance | 300 Meters (30 Bar) | Screw-down crown/caseback |
| Bezel | Ceramic Insert | 120-Click Unidirectional |
Design Philosophy: The “Slow Motion” Heritage
Breitling’s design team looked backward to move forward with the Superocean 44. The watch is heavily inspired by the brand’s past while tying in various modern materials and functions. The result is a luxury dive watch that is nostalgic and contemporary.
Reviving the Ref. 2005
That brings us to the 1960s “Slow Motion” diving chronograph, ref. 2005. The cult classic serves as inspiration for the modern Superocean 44, from the contrasting minute ring to the oversized hour markers and hands initially developed for optimal underwater legibility. It’s easy to read at a glance while reviving the bold design elements that once made the Slow Motion so distinctive.
The Divisive “Paddle” Hand
Collectors are divided when it comes to one of the watch’s most polarizing features: the square-tipped minute hand. Some feel it’s too playful for a luxury dive watch and ruins the balance of the dial. But it’s where it excels that really matters. Functionally, it does an outstanding job of making it easy to tell the time. The hand aligns perfectly with the minute markers, thus eliminating any guesswork when timing a dive or tracking elapsed time.
Colorways & Aesthetics
The Superocean 44 breaks the dive watch mold with its vibrant color options:
- Turquoise: The standout color of the collection, evoking tropical waters
- Olive Green: Military/tactical aesthetic for a more subdued look
- Orange & Yellow: Traditional high-viz diver vibes with maximum presence
Wearability: Does a 44mm Watch Fit Small Wrists?
The numbers suggest a large watch, but the reality on the wrist tells a different story. On paper, the 44mm model is quite large, but the short 50.5mm lug-to-lug measurement combined with sharply tapered lugs allows the Superocean 44 to sit comfortably on wrists as small as 6.25 inches (16cm). Some even say it fits more like a traditional 42mm sports watch.
The slim 12.6mm profile adds to the overall wearing experience of the watch. Compared to chunkier divers you might read about in our Superocean Heritage reviews, this watch slides easily under shirt cuffs. It comes with two strap options, both with a handy micro-adjustment clasp for on the fly adjustments. The rubber strap has a grippy fish-scale texture, while the metal bracelet keeps things classic in durable stainless steel.
The Movement: Breitling Calibre 17
Understanding what powers the Superocean 44 requires separating marketing from mechanics. The Breitling Calibre 17 is a COSC-certified chronometer, meeting strict Swiss standards for accuracy. However, it’s based on the widely used Sellita SW200-1 (or ETA 2824-2), a third-party movement found in watches across many price points.
The 38-hour power reserve is the elephant in the room for many enthusiasts. For a watch that retails for more than $5,000, collectors expect more than a day and a half of runtime, especially when Tudor offers 70-hour “Kenissi” in-house movements at similar or lower prices. Critics argue Breitling should offer better specifications at this price tier.
The argument for the Calibre 17 really comes down to practical considerations. The movement is slim, adding to the watch’s 12.6mm case thickness and its all-day comfort. It’s also incredibly reliable and can be serviced by watchmakers anywhere in the world, unlike some proprietary movements that require factory service. These trade-offs make sense to buyers who prioritize wearability over spec sheets.
The Clasp: A Game-Changer for Comfort
Breitling’s engineers clearly spent time perfecting the clasp system in their pursuit to create the best Breitling watches. Looking at this model more closely, it shows in daily use.
- 15mm Adjustability: The push-button sliding system allows tool-free adjustments on the fly, accommodating wrist swelling throughout the day
- Twin-Trigger Release: Dual safety buttons prevent accidental opening while swimming or diving, yet remain easy to operate with wet or gloved hands
- Refined Operation: The mechanism feels smooth and precise, unlike older clamshell-style clasps that often feel cheap or plasticky
Competitive Comparison: The “Anti-Submariner”
| Competitor | Pros vs. Breitling | Cons vs. Breitling |
| Rolex Submariner | 70hr power reserve; Better resale value | Hard to buy; Traditional design lacks personality |
| Tudor Black Bay | Better value; In-house movement | No on-the-fly adjustment; Thicker case profile |
| Zodiac Sea Wolf | Much cheaper ($1,500) | Lower fit/finish; No ceramic bezel |
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Iconic, non-derivative design that stands out from generic dive watches
- Exceptional AR coating creates a “no crystal” look in certain lighting
- Industry-leading micro-adjustment clasp for all-day comfort
- Very comfortable for its size, wears smaller than dimensions suggest
Cons:
- Short 38-hour power reserve feels dated at this price point
- Polarizing minute hand design won’t appeal to traditionalists
- High MSRP for a third-party movement base
Final Verdict
The Breitling Superocean 44 is the perfect dive watch for anyone searching for something with a little more personality. Sure, it isn’t going to win any awards for its power reserve, but it makes up for it on the wrist. The 44mm model makes a statement without going too over the top or sacrificing wearability. The market is flooded with tired reissues and homage watches. The Superocean 44 is a fresh and exciting alternative that’s modern while respecting its vintage watch heritage.
