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SIHH Qualified: List of “Fine Watchmaking”

April 26, 2017

BY Paul Altieri


As we just told you, SIHH parent the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has just released an explosive report dubbed the White Paper on Fine Watchmaking that declares only certain watch brands qualify as examples of Fine Watchmaking. No mere offhand edict, the report was painstakingly compiled with input from a prestigious “Cultural Council” of experts who evaluated each brand based on his or her area of expertise. Nonetheless, many watch enthusiasts may take issue with the fact that while the likes of Bulgari and Chanel and many lesser-known brands made the cut, Tudor and Longines were deemed unworthy.

Fine Watchmaking List

Tudor is no long recognized by SIHH to be in the “Fine Watchmaking” industry.


According to the Foundation, “Fine Watch brands meet the criteria set out by the Cultural Council. They lead the way with avant-garde products that reflect centuries of tradition.” Only 64 luxury brands qualify, of which 28 have become partners with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Choosing the brands “will significantly further understanding of Fine Watchmaking and give it greater prominence in the world,” the Foundation states. High profile Council members who helped make the decree include Aurel Bacs of Phillips Watches, Ben Clymer of Hodkinkee, William Rohr of TimeZone, and Wei Koh, founder of The Rake and Revolution Magazine.

Fine Watchmaking List

Alongside Tudor, Longines is no longer within SIHH’s requirements of “Fine Watchmaking” like Tudor.

Fine Watchmaking List

In addition to Tudor and Longines, surely the most controversial omissions, snubs include Baume & Mercier, Frederique Constant, Bremont, Alpina, Harry Winston, Bulova, Raymond Weil and Porsche Design. Below is the list of brands the Fondation deemed worthy of being partners – in their estimation the epitome of fine watchmaking – and the others that met the criteria.

  1. A. Lange & Sohne
  2. Audemars Piguet
  3. Bovet 1822
  4. Bulgari
  5. Cartier
  6. Chanel
  7. Chopard
  8. Christophe Claret
  9. De Bethune
  10. F.P. Journe
  11. Girard-Perregaux
  12. Greubel Forsey
  13. H. Moser & Cie
  14. Hermès
  15. HYT
  16. IWC
  17. Jaeger-LeCoultre
  18. Louis Vuitton
  19. MB&F
  20. Montblanc
  21. Panerai
  22. Parmigiani Fleurier
  23. Piaget
  24. Richard Mille
  25. Roger Dubuis
  26. TAG Heuer
  27. Vacheron Constantin
  28. Van Cleef & Arpels

Other brands that qualify as “Fine Watchmaking”:

  1. Andreas Strehler
  2. Antoine Preziuso
  3. Armin Strom
  4. Ateliers Louis Moinet
  5. Beat Haldimann
  6. Blancpain
  7. Breguet
  8. Breitling
  9. Cabestan
  10. Christiaan Van der Klaauw
  11. DeWitt
  12. Glashütte Original
  13. Grönefeld
  14. Hautlence
  15. Hublot
  16. Jaquet Droz
  17. Laurent Ferrier
  18. Maîtres du Temps
  19. MCT
  20. Omega
  21. Patek Philippe
  22. Philippe Dufour
  23. Ressence
  24. RJ-Romain Jerome
  25. Roger W. Smith
  26. Rolex
  27. Romain Gauthier
  28. Sarpaneva
  29. Speake-Marin
  30. Thomas Prescher
  31. Ulysse Nardin
  32. Urwerk
  33. Vianney Halter
  34. Voutilainen
  35. Zenith

According to Bloomberg, this is the outcome of a three-year review of 86 brands. What do you think of the way they did this? Did Tudor deserve a slap in the face? Or is it just an attempt to take parent Rolex down a peg….?



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