Few watches from the Rolex collection are as unconventional as the Milgauss. Not only is it the only timepiece with a lightning bolt second hand, but it is also designed to be highly resistant to magnetic fields. This makes the watch perfect for those who work with science and technology in a high magnetic field. The watch wasn’t as popular as some of the other Rolex models such as the Submariner or the GMT-Master, but it has a very strong following for its unique features. For example, the most desirable feature of the GV Milgauss is the highly colorful Z-Blue dial, coupled with the green sapphire crystal. This discontinued (2023) polarizing watch is a great option for collectors who like to have something out of the ordinary in their collections.
Key Takeaways
- Anti-Magnetic Shield: The name Milgauss derives from mille (French for one thousand) and Gauss (a unit of magnetic flux density). It features a special internal shield, or cage, that protects the movement from magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss, operating as a Faraday Cage.
- Distinctive Design: The Milgauss 116400 can be easily identified by its signature bright orange lightning bolt second hand and the optional green sapphire crystal referred to as Glace Verte (GV).
- Caliber 3131: The watch houses a specialized movement that incorporates paramagnetic materials like the blue Parachrom hairspring to enhance its magnetic resistance.
- Classic Status: Despite being discontinued in 2023, the Milgauss maintains a strong following. Certain models like the Z-Blue (Ref. 116400GV) continue to command premiums on the secondary market.
Our Rolex Milgauss Review details the historical development and engineering advances behind the Milgauss watch while analyzing its design features alongside its market value and significance in the current Rolex lineup.
The Maverick: Tracing the Rolex Milgauss History and Unique Purpose
In the 1950s, as more electrical equipment and hence more powerful magnetic fields were introduced in laboratories and engineering workshops, a common problem observed among scientists and engineers was the damaging effect these magnetic fields had on mechanical watches. The accuracy of a mechanical watch is adversely affected by magnetic fields as they influence the balance spring and other components of the movement. Rolex developed a practical solution for professionals working in magnetic fields and visiting research laboratories such as CERN (European Organization for Nuclear Research).
Born for the Lab: The Original Reference 6541 (1950s)
Rolex’s first commercially available Milgauss, Reference 6541, was released in the late 1950s. This reference was specifically designed to meet the needs of scientists from CERN who were regularly working with particle accelerators and other electromagnetic generating equipment in their laboratories. The soft iron inner case provided a Faraday cage to isolate the movement from external magnetic forces, and this feature became the hallmark of Milgauss timepieces. The original version of the Milgauss also sported a first, with the then new and distinctive lightning bolt second hand, a direct reference to its anti-electromagnetic force capabilities. This iconic feature was lost after a few years and has only recently made a comeback. The black honeycomb dial was protected by a Plexiglas crystal. The reference was equipped with the Caliber 1080 movement.
The Brief Hiatus and Triumphant Return (Ref. 116400)
The Milgauss watch had a somewhat unusual journey in the Rolex lineup, with production stopping and starting over the years due to its niche place in the brand’s catalog. The final version of the original series, ref 1019, dropped the quirky lightning bolt hand and introduced a more subdued dial. Then, in 1988, Rolex officially discontinued the model, and the Milgauss disappeared from the catalog for nearly two decades in favor of Rolex’s more popular sports watches.
In 2007, the Milgauss was unexpectedly brought back as Reference 116400 with much fanfare. With the return of the lightning bolt second hand, this updated version also saw the introduction of bolder, orange accents across the dial. The watch was now available in two variations: the standard 116400 model and 116400GV (Glace Verte) with the green-tinted sapphire crystal. The re-launch of the Milgauss signaled a departure from the serious, no-nonsense image it once had. Although it maintained its anti-magnetic properties, this Milgauss became more of an exercise in style, and aimed at a collector wanting a visually interesting watch more than a scientist in need of magnetic protection.
Technical Specifications and Anti-Magnetic Technology
Understanding the Milgauss requires examining its anti-magnetic technology. The modern references share core specifications that define their performance and wearability.
| Feature | Specification (Ref. 116400 / 116400GV) |
| Case Diameter | 40mm |
| Case Material | Oystersteel |
| Magnetic Resistance | 1,000 Gauss |
| Movement | Caliber 3131 (Self-Winding) |
| Power Reserve | Approx. 48 Hours |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
| Crystal | Sapphire (Green on GV models) |
The Faraday Cage: How the Milgauss Achieves 1,000 Gauss Resistance
The Milgauss’ 1,000 gauss magnetic resistance is accomplished by a dual part shielding system. An inner case of soft iron completely surrounds the movement, forming a Faraday Cage which diverts magnetic fields around the movement’s fragile mechanical elements. This shield includes the movement holder and a ferromagnetic dial back plate.
The core components of the anti-magnetic system include:
- Parachrom hairspring: A blue paramagnetic alloy hairspring that is inherently resistant to magnetic fields and temperature variations
- Nickel-iron alloy shield: The soft iron inner case that forms the primary barrier against magnetic interference
- Ferromagnetic dial back: An additional layer of protection between the dial and movement
- Non-magnetic components: Select movement parts manufactured from materials that do not respond to magnetic fields
The 1,000 gauss protection will cover most everyday magnetic exposures and many laboratory environments. To give some perspective, magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) machines produce magnetic fields well in excess of this limit. In contrast, audio speakers, closing a laptop computer and other such electronic sources are well within the protective capability of the Milgauss.
Caliber 3131: The Movement Engineered for Resistance
The Caliber 3131 was designed by Rolex for the Milgauss by modifying their tried-and-tested automatic movement platform. The 3131 is based on the robust 3130 caliber family and has the paramagnetic parts integrated in, without compromising on Rolex’s standards for precision and robustness. The movement is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring which Rolex crafts out of an alloy of niobium and zirconium. The hairspring is up to 10 times more shock resistant than a standard hairspring, and it is almost entirely unaffected by magnetic fields.
Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the 3131 is equipped with Rolex’s technical innovations including the self-winding Perpetual rotor system. With a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, the Caliber 3131 movement provides the performance expected from a Rolex movement, and has the characteristics needed to satisfy the Milgauss’ requirement for magnetic field resistance.
An Overview of All Rolex Milgauss References and Dial Variations
The Milgauss has evolved through several references, each reflecting the design priorities and technical capabilities of its era. Understanding these variations helps collectors identify the models that best suit their preferences.
| Reference | Production Era | Dial Colors | Crystal | Key Feature |
| 6541 | 1956 – late 1950s | Black, Honeycomb | Plexi | Original lightning bolt seconds hand |
| 1019 | 1960 – 1988 | Black, Silver | Plexi | Calmer design used by CERN staff |
| 116400 | 2007 – ~2014 | Black, White | Sapphire (Clear) | Reintroduction model with orange accents |
| 116400GV | 2007 – 2023 | Black, Z-Blue | Glace Verte (Green) | Iconic green sapphire crystal |
The Iconic Z-Blue Dial (116400GV): Why It Polarizes Collectors
Z-Blue dial is the least subtle version of the Milgauss. The ultra vivid electric blue applied to the metallic finish will give it a fiery, glow-in-the-dark quality under certain light sources. In some ways, it’s the most “blatant” Rolex ever made. The primary dial, combined with the green sapphire crystal, was a visual dividing line for many collectors. For some it’s the perfect realization of Rolex’s playful side.
Critics argue that the color combination feels jarring or gimmicky, particularly when compared to the restrained elegance of other Rolex sports models. The green-on-blue pairing can appear garish to those who prefer subtlety, and the watch’s overall presence can feel too assertive for daily wear. For some it’s hard not to compare the overall effect with the more “grown-up” colors of its predecessors. By being divisive, it’s arguably made the Z-Blue an even more popular variation for collectors who want a bold timepiece.
Dial Variations: Black vs. White vs. Z-Blue
Each dial color option offers a distinct aesthetic that changes the watch’s overall character:
- Black dial: The traditional choice, black works well with all three watch styles, providing great legibility and allowing the orange accents to shine without dominating. It is the most versatile option.
- White dial: The white face provides the most contrast for the orange markers and orange hand, lending the Milgauss a lighter and more casual appearance than the other colors. This dial option looks good in the broadest range of situations.
- Z-Blue dial: Available only with the 116400GV and green crystal, this metallic electric blue is the most striking and divisive option. Its depth and saturation make this the dial option that stands out the most.
The choice between these dials often comes down to personal style and intended use. The black dial offers the greatest versatility, the white provides a fresh alternative, and the Z-Blue makes the strongest statement.
Design Deep Dive: The Lightning Bolt Hand and Green Crystal
The visual identity of the Milgauss rests on several distinctive design elements that set it apart from every other watch in the Rolex catalog:
- The Orange Lightning Bolt: The second hand is a nod to the first commercially produced Milgauss, Reference 6541, from the 1950s. The zig-zag form is both a visual tip of the hat to the timepiece’s legacy, and a cheeky reference to its electromagnetic raison d’être. Bright orange was also chosen to stand out against any dial color, and because it underscores the timepiece’s scientific personality.
- Glace Verte (GV): This green-tinted sapphire crystal is only featured on Milgauss 116400GV timepieces. Rolex produces this unique element in-house, adding color to the synthetic sapphire as it is formed. On the 116400GV the green tint is barely visible in some lighting conditions, yet vivid in others, creating another layer of visual intrigue.
- Orange and White Index Markers: The color-coded hour markers not only make the dial easier to read but also highlight the watch’s playful character. Each one is filled with luminescent material for visibility after dark, adding everyday practicality without taking away from the Milgauss’ distinctive aesthetics.
- Polished Finish: In contrast to the more sporty Submariner or GMT-Master, whose cases and bracelets are mostly brushed, the Milgauss case and Oyster bracelet are finished with polished center links, as is the bezel. This higher-polished finish gives the watch a dressier aesthetic, helping the timepiece move more easily from laboratory to formal environments.
Sizing and Wearability: A True Tool Watch Feel
40mm will work for most men’s wrist sizes. Compared to other 40mm Rolexes, the Milgauss sits differently due to the case design. The internal Faraday Cage increases the overall thickness, and the Milgauss is noticeably taller than an Explorer 40 or Datejust 41. At about 13mm-13.5mm depending on how you measure it, it is substantially thicker than the typical three hand Rolex at around 11mm.
The increased height impacts how it sits on the wrist and how it slips under shirt cuffs. Some people prefer the added presence and heft, but it is also less streamlined for others looking for a less bulky daily wear option. The smooth polished bezel and lack of crown guards result in a cleaner case profile looking down at the watch, but the thickness is visible from the profile view.
Bracelet and Clasp Comfort
As standard, the Milgauss is fitted with Rolex’s three-link Oyster bracelet. Made of polished center links, it is the perfect match in terms of sporty, yet refined finishing for the case. Solid end links fit flush against the case with no gap or flex between the bracelet and lugs.
The Oysterlock folding safety clasp is equipped with the Easylink 5mm comfort extension system. This ingenious mechanism allows you to adjust the length of the bracelet without the use of tools by as much as 5mm. The Easylink extension is released by opening a small folding section of the clasp. This handy system makes it easy to account for wrist swelling that can occur during the day, or as a result of seasonal changes in temperature.
Milgauss Value: Is the Rolex Milgauss a Good Investment?
The investment potential of the Milgauss depends on several factors, making it a more nuanced proposition than some other Rolex models. The discontinuation of production in 2023 changed the watch’s market dynamics by creating permanent scarcity.
Pros
- Discontinued status drives scarcity: With production permanently ended, the available supply of Milgauss watches is now fixed. This factor typically supports values over time, particularly for the most desirable variants.
- Unique design ensures long-term collector interest: The Milgauss offers something no other modern Rolex provides. This distinctiveness helps maintain collector demand even as trends shift.
- Scientific history adds provenance: The association with CERN and the watch’s practical purpose give it a legitimate backstory that appeals to collectors who value functional heritage.
Cons
- Historically lower volume than mainstream models: Rolex produced far fewer Milgauss watches than Submariners or GMT-Masters, which limits market liquidity. Fewer transactions can mean longer holding periods for sellers.
- Less mainstream appeal slows price appreciation: The polarizing design means a smaller pool of potential buyers compared to universally popular models. This can moderate price growth even with limited supply.
Pre-Owned Market Dynamics: A Comparative Price Analysis
The 2023 discontinuation announcement had a direct impact on all Milgauss references, with the Z-Blue 116400GV being the most affected, as it is now perceived as the most unique and never to be reissued variant. This reference is consistently the one that fetches the highest premiums on the secondary market. On the other hand, the more understated 116400 references with black or white dials have experienced more modest appreciation, as they offer a more conservative alternative to collectors who are looking for Milgauss’ technical appeal, but are competing with other Rolex sports offerings in the pre-owned market.
Vintage 6541 and 1019 references have a completely different market and trade based on factors such as condition, originality, and the overall vintage Rolex market. These earlier models appeal to more serious collectors who prioritize historical significance over modern wearability. While prices have increased on all references since the discontinuation, the Z-Blue variant continues to see the strongest demand and price appreciation.
Milgauss vs. The Anti-Magnetic Competition
The Milgauss competes in a small niche of watches designed specifically to resist magnetic fields. Understanding how it stacks up against alternatives helps clarify its strengths and limitations.
| Feature | Rolex Milgauss | Rolex Explorer I | Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra |
| Magnetic Resistance | 1,000 Gauss (Faraday Cage) | Standard (Parachrom hairspring) | 15,000+ Gauss (Non-ferrous movement) |
| Design Philosophy | Bold, Colorful, Scientific | Understated, Versatile, Classic | Elegant, Dressy, Technical |
| Case Size | 40mm | 36mm or 40mm(current) | 38mm – 41mm (various) |
| Water Resistance | 100m | 100m | 150m |
| Price Positioning | Mid-tier Sports Model | Entry-level Sports Model | Competitor to Rolex Sports |
Milgauss vs. Rolex Explorer I
Both the Milgauss and the Explorer I were designed by Rolex as purpose-built tool watches, each created to meet the needs of a specific profession. The Explorer was made for explorers and climbers. The Milgauss was made for scientists and engineers. The Explorer embraces the no-nonsense design ethos with a black dial, Mercedes hands, and 3-6-9 dial placement for the utmost legibility with the least bells and whistles to be at home in nearly any situation. The Milgauss goes to the other extreme with a lightning bolt hand, orange accents, and the option for green crystal. Where the Explorer slips quietly onto the wrist, the Milgauss makes a statement.
Technically speaking, the Explorer possesses some anti-magnetic properties via its Parachrom hairspring, but lacks the full body shielding of the Milgauss. In the end for most people this is a moot point, as few people will find themselves regularly in situations with magnetic fields intense enough to need this extra protection. These watches come down to personality.
Milgauss vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (>,15000 Gauss)
Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra with greater than 15,000 gauss resistance represents a fundamentally different approach to magnetic protection. Rather than shielding the movement with a Faraday Cage, Omega constructs the entire movement from non-ferrous materials that don’t respond to magnetic fields. This allows Omega to achieve dramatically higher resistance levels without adding case thickness, making it suitable for environments that would overwhelm the Milgauss. However, this comes with trade-offs, as the movement cannot include certain traditional materials and finishing techniques, and some collectors prefer the proven, traditional approach of the Faraday Cage.
Aesthetically, the Aqua Terra leans toward dressy elegance with its horizontally striped “teak” dials and refined finishing, while the Milgauss embraces a more playful, sporty character. The Aqua Terra also offers greater water resistance at 150 meters. Both watches successfully solve the anti-magnetic challenge but appeal to different collector sensibilities in their execution.
Decoding the Enduring Appeal of the Rolex Milgauss Anti-Magnetic Tool Watch
From its inception, the Milgauss has worn its uniqueness on its sleeve, not minding that it was a rather limited part of the sleeve. The leap from protective equipment for scientists to designer fashion accessory for collectors was one of concept rather than form, so even as its functional appeal has faded it’s grown in character and personality, becoming the statement watch for the Rolex collector who values character as well as class. No other Rolex has the iconic flash of its lightning bolt hand or distinctive shade of the green sapphire crystal, making it an obvious buy for anyone who wants a Rolex that is also unmistakably not like every other Rolex.
In many ways, the Milgauss is for collectors with an eye for the eccentric. Its discontinuation, for now, anyway, means it’s assured of retaining its outsider status and not being reissued to be a second-generation family member alongside the Explorer and GMT-Master II. The prices of discontinued watches can be incredibly volatile, but at this point in time for the collector with their sights set on an out-of-production reference, vintage or pre-owned is the only way to go.
