In Hollywood, there were few actors more iconic than Robert Redford, who passed away this week age 89. And while perhaps not as talked about as the likes of Paul Newman and Steve McQueen, Redford in fact made an important contribution to Rolex mythology with his personal choice of timepiece, the famed “Red Sub” Rolex Submariner in stainless steel.
What Is the Rolex “Red Sub”?
The “Red” Sub, as any true collector can tell you, is a rare version of the Submariner Ref. 1680, which was the very first date-displaying Submariner model, making it an crucial part of Rolex history. Only the earliest versions of the 1680, produced from c.1967-1975, feature the Submariner name in red text; and there were seven dial variants of it in all.
Rolex later changed the Submariner text on 1680s, and subsequent Submariner models, to white. And that move in fact makes the “Red” Subs even rarer, because a number of “Red” Subs were subsequently fitted with “service” dials over the years, meaning Rolex replaced them with the later white-text version, significantly lessening their value.
Robert Redford’s Personal Choice
Redford’s “Red Sub” was his own personal watch, and not a result of product placement or a wardrobe department choice, making it that much more important. He first wore the stainless steel timepiece onscreen in the 1972 political comedy-drama The Candidate, which won an Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay. Redford also wore the watch while promoting the movie at the 1972 Cannes Film Festival.
The “Red Sub” next surfaced on Redford’s wrist while he was promoting 1975’s Three Days of the Condor, a spy thriller which is now best remembered for helping to define Redford’s timeless style: tweed jackets, blue jeans, pea coats, and aviator glasses. Then in 1976 he wore it onscreen in All the President’s Men, the Watergate-themed film which was nominated for a “Best Picture” Oscar.
The “Red Sub” on Redford’s wrist soon became totemic and has been cited countless times by mens’ style and watch writers. He last wore it onscreen in 1979’s The Electric Horseman, and then again in public at the 1981 Directors Guild Awards in Hollywood. Considering filming of The Candidate began in 1971, that marked a full decade of Redford wearing the iconic watch.
Collectability and Value Today
Legend has it that someone once offered to give Redford a gold Submariner to replace his much-worn “Red Sub.” “Thanks,” the actor replied, “but I’m not a gold kind of guy.” Today, you can find an original condition, well worn “Red Sub” for around $18,000, though mint condition models will run considerably more. These watches not only hold their value very well but have increased over the years due to their rarity.
Bob’s Watches founder and CEO Paul Altieri, one of the world’s top Rolex collectors, says that should Redford’s “Red Sub” ever come up for auction, it could potentially fetch seven figures. “While not as valuable as Paul Newman’s Daytona, which sold for $17.8 million in 2017, it is certainly an iconic Rolex with a truly impressive provenance, and collectors worldwide would bid for it. I’d also expect Rolex itself to be extremely interested in acquiring the watch for its private collection.”
The Lasting Legacy of Redford’s Red Sub
Robert Redford’s Submariner 1680 “Red Sub” isn’t just a watch; it’s a symbol of his understated style and enduring influence. More than five decades later, it continues to stand as one of the most memorable celebrity Rolex pairings, blending Hollywood history with horological significance.
