Tudor Submariner

History of the Tudor Submariner

The Tudor Submariner story began in 1954 with the reference 7922. The watch was nearly identical to the early Rolex dive models of the same era. Over the next four and a half decades, Tudor refined the Submariner through changes in hand designs, dial logos, bezel mechanisms, and case proportions. Each update served the needs of professional divers and military personnel who depended on these watches in the field.

Production of the Tudor Submariner ended in 1999, so every example out there today is discontinued. That scarcity, combined with growing collector interest, has turned the Submariner into one of the most actively traded vintage dive watches in the world. You see it across the board, from early 1950s watches to the final models from the late ’90s. They all trace back to the same idea. A tough, no-nonsense dive watch built to be used.

Tudor Submariner Market Value and Trends

The market for Tudor Submariners has changed quite a bit over the last decade. What used to be seen as a more affordable sport watch alternative is now firmly on collectors’ radar. Prices have followed. Based on our sales data from 2015 to 2025, the average has moved from around $5,100 to over $7,300, with certain references climbing much faster than others. The upward trend reflects a shift in how collectors see the Tudor Submariner today.

The ref. 79090, for example, was trading around $4,400 in 2017 and now sits closer to $7,800. The ref. 94110 has seen even stronger growth, jumping from roughly $5,150 in 2015 to over $10,700 in recent years. Even later references like the 79190 have moved up steadily. It was about $5,800 in 2019. Now it averages around $8,600. Hard to ignore at this point. Tudor Submariners aren’t flying under the radar anymore.

Exploring the Main Generations

Tudor Submariners generally fall into three distinct eras of production, each with its own set of technical upgrades and visual changes. Once you break things down by era, it gets a lot easier to see which references actually fit what you’re looking for. Here’s how they stack up.

The Early Classics (Ref. 7922, 7924, 7928)

These are the watches that launched the Tudor dive legacy. The 7922 started production in 1954, but it is the 7924, often called the "Big Crown," that truly captures collector attention with its 200-meter depth rating and oversized winding crown. Both of these early references lack crown guards. That, of course, gives them a clean, streamlined profile that vintage enthusiasts find irresistible.

By 1959, the Tudor Submariner ref. 7928 introduced square crown guards to protect the winding mechanism from physical impact. This model stayed in production for nearly a decade and saw widespread military use. Our sales data puts the 7928 at around $10,000 in recent transactions, which places it toward the higher end of the lineup. If you’re after something that really feels like mid-century equipment, this is a strong place to start.

The Snowflake Era (Ref. 7016, 7021, 9401, 9411)

This is the most visually distinctive chapter in Tudor Submariner history. In 1969, Tudor replaced the traditional Mercedes-style hands with square-tipped "snowflake hands” to improve legibility underwater. This change was made at the request of the French Navy, which needed a hand design that was easier to read at a glance in low-visibility conditions.

The snowflake era also marked the shift to the Tudor shield logo, replacing the earlier rose emblem. These models were produced with both black and a vibrant blue dial, and that blue has since become one of the brand's most recognizable signatures. Owning a blue Tudor Submariner snowflake is considered a milestone for many serious vintage collectors. Prices for clean examples with original dials have risen consistently over the past several years.

The Final Generations (Ref. 76100, 79090, 79190)

As the 1980s arrived, Tudor shifted back toward more traditional Submariner styling while improving the technical specifications. The reference 76100 is a transitional model that features a distinctive "lollipop" hour hand, bridging the gap between the vintage snowflake era and the more modern look of the 79090.

The 79090 brought back the Mercedes hands and used a reliable ETA movement that’s easy for watchmakers to service today. The final reference in the collection, the 79190, added a sapphire crystal and a unidirectional bezel. These later models are the most practical for anyone who wants a vintage look but plans to wear the watch every day. Our data shows the 79190 averaging $8,645 in recent sales, reflecting Tudor's commitment to reliable construction and its appeal as both a collectible and a capable daily wearer.

Mid-Size and Smaller Models (Ref. 75090, 73090, 96090)

Tudor was ahead of its time by making the Tudor Submariner in a range of case sizes. While the standard models measured 39mm or 40mm, the brand also produced a 36mm mid-size version and even smaller "Mini-Sub" and "Lady-Sub" options. With so much variety the collection became more accessible to people with different wrist sizes who still wanted the classic dive watch look.

The ref. 75090 is also collection-worthy, but for a different reason. It has the same 200-meter water resistance but comes in a more compact 36mm case. These mid-size watches tend to trade for less than the full-size models. That’s part of the appeal. They still have the same core design and history, just without paying up for the larger, more in-demand versions.

Technical Details and Build Quality

The Tudor Submariner was designed from the start as a professional tool watch. Every element of its construction was engineered to survive the pressures of deep-water use. Below is a breakdown of the key technical features that define these watches.

Materials

Tudor Submariners are made from high-grade stainless steel, including the Oyster case that was supplied directly by Rolex. For many years, these watches carried the Rolex crown logo on the case back. That detail often surprises newer collectors.

Tudor kept the focus on utility, so you won’t find any precious metal versions in this collection. The steel is durable and resistant to corrosion from salt water. Earlier models used acrylic crystals, which are easy to polish but prone to scratching, while the final references upgraded to scratch-resistant sapphire.

Movement

Unlike Rolex, which uses in-house calibers, Tudor equipped its Submariners with modified movements from trusted suppliers like ETA and Fleurier. This approach allowed Tudor to keep retail prices significantly lower without compromising timekeeping accuracy.

The Caliber 390 powered the early models, while later versions relied on the ETA 2824-2. Watchmakers love these movements because they’re durable and easy to service. If you need a service on a Tudor Submariner, finding a qualified watchmaker and sourcing parts is a lot easier than it would be for most vintage watches.

Bezel

The bezel on every Tudor Submariner is designed to track elapsed time during a dive. Early models featured bidirectional bezels that could rotate in both directions, which was the standard design for dive watches of that era.

Later references switched to a unidirectional bezel for improved safety. If the bezel gets knocked, it can only move in one direction, making it appear as if more time has passed, not less. That matters underwater. It reduces the risk of a diver thinking they have more air left than they actually do.

Sizes

The standard Tudor Submariner typically measures 39mm or 40mm across. This size is widely considered the ideal range for a dive watch because it provides strong legibility without overwhelming the wrist.

The collection also has several alternative sizes, including 36mm mid-size models, 33mm mini-subs, and 26mm lady-subs. This range of options is unusual for a vintage dive watch line and makes the Tudor Submariner accessible to almost anyone, regardless of wrist size.

Water Resistance

The earliest Tudor Submariners were rated to 100 meters, which was a strong specification for the mid-1950s. Tudor quickly improved this to 200 meters with the release of the 7924 in 1958. That rating became the standard for the rest of the collection's production run.

Thanks to the screw-down crown and the Oyster case design shared with Rolex, these watches were genuinely capable of handling professional diving duties. If you plan to wear a vintage Tudor Submariner near water today, it’s always a good idea to have the water resistance tested by a qualified watchmaker first.

Watch Bands

Most Tudor Submariners left the factory on stainless steel Oyster bracelets. These bracelets often featured the Rolex crown on the clasp and used either riveted or folded links, depending on the era of production. An original bracelet in good condition can be very valuable.

NATO-style straps are a natural fit for these watches. They tie back to the military history, particularly the models issued to the French and U.S. Navies. A blue snowflake on a grey NATO is a fairly common pairing among avid collectors.

Our Take on the Tudor Submariner

The Tudor Submariner appeals to collectors who care more about substance than flash. It shares the same dive watch silhouette that made the Rolex Submariner famous, but the added design variety and real military use give it a character that feels different.

What makes these watches special is their range. You can collect across eras, from a 1950s big crown with no crown guards to a late 1990s sapphire crystal model. Each one tells a different story. The market has caught on. Interest in Tudor Submariners has been building for a while now, especially as more collectors start to add them to their collections.

Your Trusted Partner for Vintage Tudor

Buying a vintage watch requires trust, especially when you’re looking at rare references like the Tudor Submariner. At Bob's Watches, we take the guesswork out of the process by personally inspecting every timepiece that comes through our doors. Our team verifies every component to make sure that what you are buying is authentic and period-correct.

We’re not just a marketplace. We are enthusiasts who understand the details that matter, from dial patina to crown guard profiles. When you buy from us, you get a luxury watch that has been serviced and is ready to wear. We back every sale with a 100% authenticity guarantee, in-house expertise developed over decades, fast insured shipping, transparent pricing based on current market data, and a comprehensive warranty for your peace of mind.

Get a Fair Quote for Your Tudor Submariner

If you’re ready to sell your Tudor watch, you want a price that reflects its true market value. These watches have seen significant appreciation in recent years, and many owners are surprised at what they’re actually worth today. At Bob's Watches, we provide a straightforward and secure process to help you get a competitive cash offer.

The process is simple. Provide us with some basic information about your watch and its condition, and we will return a quote based on real-time market data. We handle shipping and insurance on our end, so you can sell your timepiece without the risks and hassles of a private sale. It’s really the easiest way to turn a vintage Tudor Submariner into cash you can use toward your next addition.