The Rolex Explorer II is a no-nonsense tool watch that was originally developed in 1971 for cave explorers to be able to tell day from night in complete darkness. Renowned for its legendary white “Polar” dial and GMT function, the Explorer II has evolved into one of Rolex’s most sensible and understated luxury sports watches. This comprehensive review addresses its heritage, specifications, new models, and investment potential to help guide you through deciding whether it’s worth buying.
Key Takeaways
- A True Tool Watch: Originally designed for speleologists, the Explorer II is built for legibility and durability in extreme conditions
- Iconic “Polar” Dial: The crisp white dial, known as the “Rolex Polar” dial, is one of its most distinctive and sought-after features
- GMT Functionality: The 24-hour hand and fixed bezel allow for tracking a second time zone on some models, making it an ideal travel watch
- Multiple References: The Explorer II has evolved through several key references, each with its own unique characteristics and appeal
- Solid Investment: While all Rolex watches tend to hold their value, the Explorer II has seen a significant rise in popularity and value in recent years
Here are the individual sections breaking out each and every component of the Rolex Explorer II from its initiation with a 1971 reference through the current 2021 reference so you will have all of the information you will need to make making an informed buying decision.
The History and Evolution of the Rolex Explorer II
The Rolex Explorer II history spans well over half a century. During its run the timepiece has transformed from an enthusiast potholer’s device to being one of Rolex’s finest-known sports watches. Understanding this evolution goes a long way toward explaining why the Explorer II sits apart from other high-level watches.
From the Caves to the Peaks: The Origins of the Explorer II
Rolex released the Explorer II back in 1971 as an answer to a particular request of cave explorers. Speleologists that were functioning under complete darkness needed an irrefutable method of ascertaining PM and AM, crucial information used for coordinating with surface teams and managing expedition schedules. The original reference 1655 contained the then-famous (“Freccione” or large arrow)) 24-hour hand that functioned as a complementary component of a 24-hour bezel providing the crucial day/night indication.
Unlike its sibling, the Rolex Explorer, designed as a mountain climber’s watch, the Explorer II established a segment of its own as an underground exploratory instrument. Its dramatic orange 24-hour indication and rugged construction caught professionals digging deep under extreme conditions right from the start, though initially flew low under the radar vis-a-vis Rolex’s mass-market items.
Key Milestones in the Explorer II’s History
- 1971 – The Birth of an Icon (Ref. 1655): IntroducedI the first Explorer II and its unique, function-driven design featuring the distinctive orange “Freccione” hand and 24-hour graduated bezel.
- 1985 – A New Generation (Ref. 16550): The introduction of the independent GMT hand, a sapphire crystal, and the first white “Polar” dial marked a significant evolution in the Explorer II’s design philosophy.
- 1989 – The Long-Running Classic (Ref. 16570): A popular reference produced for over 20 years, known for its classic 40mm proportions and reliable Cal. 3185/3186 movement, establishing the Explorer II as a modern classic.
- 2011 – The Modern Era (Ref. 216570): The 40th-anniversary model with a larger 42mm “Super” case and the return of the orange 24-hour hand, paying homage to the original while incorporating contemporary sizing trends.
- 2021 – The Latest Evolution (Ref. 226570): The current model featuring a refined case and lugs, and the new-generation Calibre 3285 movement with improved power reserve and precision.
A Closer Look at the Rolex Explorer II’s Design & Features
The Explorer II’s philosophy is one of legibility and utility, where every detail serves a purpose. Each component ensures it’s a genuine tool watch with the capacity to withstand harsh weather.
The Case: Built for Durability
The Explorer II is made exclusively in stainless steel. Its solid build withstands the watch against the wear and tear of day-to-day use, yet still holds tool watch credentials.
Key Case Specifications
- Material: Stainless steel
- Diameter: 42mm (modern references) / 39mm or 40mm (vintage references)
- Winding Crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproofness system
- Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire with Cyclops lens over the date
- Water Resistance: Waterproof to 100 meters / 330 feet
The Bezel: A Functional 24-Hour Display
The Explorer II features a fixed, satin-finished bezel with graduations for 24 hours, operating synchronously with the typical 24-hour hand. With this system, the wearer may distinguish PM from AM while operating under conditions with no natural light, or keep track of a secondary time zone during travel on some models. In a minimalist, utilitarian fashion, the fixed bezel highlights the tool watch look of the timepiece while providing true utility.
The Dial: The Choice Between Polar White and Classic Black
Two versions are offered with the Explorer II; each possesses a personality and style of their own. White “Polar” has superb readability with PVD gold hour marker surrounds in black that offer superb contrast and superior readability regardless of ambient conditions. The black dial has standard white gold hour markers for a hint of understated sophistication.
Dial Features
- Polar Dial: Crisp white with black PVD-coated gold surrounds for the hour markers
- Black Dial: Classic glossy black with 18k white gold surrounds for the hour markers
- Luminescence: Tritium, Super-LumiNova, or Chromalight, depending on when the watch was made
- Hands: Distinctive “Mercedes” hour hand (except for ref. 1655) and the iconic red or orange 24-hour “Freccione” hand
The Movement: The Heart of the Explorer II
The current Explorer II reference (226570) houses the next-generation Calibre 3285, a significant step up in Rolex’s movement technology. The movement has an extended power reserve, improved accuracy, and greater resistance to magnetic fields compared with their predecessors.
Calibre 3285 Highlights
- Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
- Precision: Superlative Chronometer (-2/+2 sec/day)
- Key Technology: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, Chronergy escapement
The Bracelet: Comfort and Security
The three-link Oyster bracelet has established a reputation of sturdiness and wearability through long-term wear. The entirely brushed/satin finish suits the utilitarian tool watch style of the timepiece while hiding minute scratches that could accumulate with heavy use.
Bracelet & Clasp Features
- Clasp: Folding Oysterlock safety clasp
- Extension System: Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Explorer II Models: A Reference-by-Reference Comparison
While all Explorer II models share core DNA, key differences in size, movement, and aesthetics define each reference and influence their appeal to different collectors and users.
| Feature | Ref. 16570 | Ref. 216570 | Ref. 226570 |
| Production Years | 1989 – 2011 | 2011 – 2021 | 2021 – Present |
| Case Size | 40mm | 42mm | 42mm |
| Movement | Cal. 3185/3186 | Cal. 3187 | Cal. 3285 |
| GMT Hand | Red | Orange | Orange |
| Bracelet/Lugs | More slender lugs | Broader “Super” case | Slightly slimmer lugs, wider bracelet |
| Market Appeal | Neo-vintage charm, excellent value | Modern presence, robust feel | Latest technology, refined design |
The Rolex Explorer II on the Wrist: A Real-World Review
Beyond specifications and technical details, the true measure of any watch lies in how it performs during daily wear. The Explorer II’s practical design translates into genuine everyday usability across different lifestyles and preferences.
How Does the Rolex Explorer II Wear?
Wearability of the Explorer II shifts profoundly from the 40mm to the 42mm models. The 40mm ref. 16570 works with a range of wrist sizes, and is an excellent option for individuals who prefer more proportionate sizes. Today’s 42mm refs. (216570 and 226570) have good wrist presence but remain wearable because of their comparatively slender build and well-thought-out lugs.
Wearability at a Glance
- 40mm (Ref. 16570): Wears true to size, perfect for a wide range of wrists
- 42mm (Refs. 216570/226570): Has significant wrist presence but is balanced by a relatively slim profile
- Daily Comfort: The Oyster bracelet and Easylink extension make it comfortable all day
The “Under the Radar” Rolex
The Explorer II occupies a unique position among Rolex designs as a less flashy alternative to more attention-seeking versions like the Submariner or GMT-Master II. For those with a taste for good timepieces that don’t depend upon overt status indicators, this part of the Explorer II presents an attractive appeal. With the Explorer II comes tangible utility and Rolex quality alongside a comparatively low profile appreciated both at work and at play.
Pros and Cons of Owning a Rolex Explorer II
Pros:
- Unmatched versatility for any occasion
- Extreme durability and reliability
- Superb legibility with the Polar or black dial
- Practical GMT function for travel
- Strong value retention and investment potential
Cons:
- The 42mm size may not suit all wrists
- The fixed bezel is less interactive than a rotating dive bezel
- High demand can make it difficult to acquire at retail
Rolex Explorer II Price & Investment Value
Understanding the market movement of the Explorer II enables one to make a more informed buy. Prices of the watch reflect both how much it’s desired and the current direction of the high-end watch market impacting availability and value.
Understanding the Market: Retail (MSRP) vs. Pre-Owned Prices
Purchasing a Rolex comes through one of two primary means: authorized dealers at Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP), or the used market, where watches are plentiful. Limited inventory and long wait lists at authorized dealers have fueled a profitable used marketplace where Explorer II watches frequently sell above their original retail.
| Model | Retail Price (MSRP) | Pre-Owned Market Price (Approx.) |
| Explorer II Ref. 226570 | ~ $10,050 | ~ $12,500 – $14,500+ |
| Explorer II Ref. 216570 | Discontinued | ~ $9,500 |
| Explorer II Ref. 16570 | Discontinued | ~ $10,000+ |
Is the Rolex Explorer II a Good Investment? Analyzing Value Retention
The Explorer II has demonstrated incredible value retention throughout its history, often selling used at above initial retail. While no watch can truly become a guarantee of a successful investment financially, the Explorer II has a proven track record of good value retention that places it at the top of many collectors’ must-have lists because of both its practicality and potential appreciation.
Factors Influencing Value
- Reference Number: Older and transitional references can be highly collectible
- Condition: The overall state of the case, bracelet, and movement is crucial
- Box & Papers: A “full set” with the original box and documentation commands a premium
- Dial Type: The “Polar” dial is often the most sought-after and can trade at a premium over the black dial
Why the Rolex Explorer II is an Adventurer’s Perfect Watch
Rolex Explorer II is a curiosity of the watch world, a sui generis tool watch with genuine utility combined with the beauty and reliability that are Rolex’s trademark. From a special-purpose original instrument of spelunkers to a solid and classy timepiece that charms travel enthusiasts and fans worldwide, its history reveals the everlasting potency of utilitarian design. With a blend of rugged utility, refined beauty, and horological significance, no other example from the Rolex stable comes with as much appeal.
For those ready to acquire this exceptional timepiece, the pre-owned market offers the best selection and immediate availability. Bob’s Watches provides a trusted, curated collection of Rolex Explorer II watches for sale. Explore our inventory to find the perfect reference for your next adventure.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Rolex Explorer II
These common questions address the most important considerations for potential Explorer II buyers, covering everything from investment potential to practical ownership concerns.
