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Watches & Wonders 2022 First Look & Reactions to Rolex, Tudor, Patek, and More!

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Paul Altieri

Watches & Wonders Geneva is now in full-swing, which means that many of the world’s top luxury watch brands have just unveiled their new models for 2022. A total of 38 brands are exhibiting at the show, and this also happens to be the first year that Watches & Wonders Geneva has been able to exist as a live in-person event. This is arguably the most exciting time of the year for collectors and enthusiasts, so here is your official recap and overview of the most important new releases from Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022.

New Rolex Watches 2022

Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR
Image: @zachxryj

New 2022 Rolex Models

  • Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – stainless steel, black/green bezel
  • Rolex Air-King ref. 126900 – stainless steel
  • Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226658 – 18k yellow gold
  • Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 – 18k white gold, falcon’s eye dial
  • New platinum Rolex Day-Date watches
  • New dial options for the Rolex Day-Date collection
  • New dials for Rolex Datejust watches
  • Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660

The biggest news from Rolex this year is the new stainless steel GMT-Master II 126720VTNR that has a green and black bezel and a left-handed crown. However, the new Rolex Air-King 126900 is also receiving a lot of attention, as it marks the first time that crown-guards have ever appeared on a model from the Air-King collection. Other new additions to Rolex’s sports watch lineup include a yellow gold version of the Yacht-Master 42, a new stone dial option for the white gold model, and a slightly revised version of the Deepsea.

On the classic side of Rolex’s catalog are new platinum Day-Date models that feature fluted bezels (a first for platinum President watches), along with a number of new dial options for both the 36mm and 40mm models. Additionally the Datejust collection has also received a whole range of new dials, including an expansion of the fluted and palm motif dials that were introduced last year, along with new diamond-set dials for the 31mm models that feature a floral pattern on their surfaces.

New Tudor Watches 2022

Tudor Black Bay Pro
Image: Tudor

New 2022 Tudor Models

  • Tudor Black Bay Pro
  • Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
  • Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G
  • New Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 S&G
  • New two-tone Tudor Royal watches

Tudor’s new releases from Watches & Wonders Geneva are largely centered around two-tone models, with new steel and gold versions of the Black Bay Chrono, Black Bay GMT, and Black Bay 31/36/39/41 models debuting this year, along with a couple of new gem-set versions of the Tudor Royal. While the new Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G emulates the Rolex “Root Beer” GMT-Master II, arguably the most discussed new watch from Tudor is the all-new Black Bay Pro.

The Tudor Black Bay Pro is essentially the brand’s version of the vintage Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655. The watch itself is powered by the same movement as the Black Bay GMT, but it instead features a 39mm stainless steel case with a fixed steel bezel. Unlike the vintage Rolex model that serves as its aesthetic inspiration, the new Black Bay Pro is a proper dual-time GMT watch, and even features an independently adjustable local hour hand, just like its Black Bay GMT sibling.

New Patek Philippe Watches 2022

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G-001
Image: Patek Philippe

New 2022 Patek Philippe Models

  • Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5226G-001
  • Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time ref. 5326G-001
  • Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5320G-011
  • Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5172G-010
  • Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5205R-011
  • Patek Philippe Twenty~4 ref. 4910/1200A-011
  • Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5270P-014
  • Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5230P-001
  • Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5231G-001
  • Patek Philippe World Time ref. 7130R-014
  • Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P

Many collectors thought that we might see a new Nautilus unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, but Patek Philippe has instead placed an emphasis on its Calatrava collection and World Time models. While some new models received new dial colors or metal variations, the new watch that has received the most attention is the all-new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time ref. 5326G-001.

Unlike the Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time that debuted in 2018, the new Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G lacks the prominent pushers of its sibling for a much cleaner and more streamlined aesthetic. Additionally, Patek Philippe has also unveiled a new time-and-date version of its classic Calatrava model that incorporates the same aesthetic seen on the new Annual Calendar Travel Time model with its granular-textured gray dial, syringe hands, and smooth bezel.

New Panerai Watches 2022

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Blu Profondo PAM01289
Image: Panerai

New 2022 Panerai Models

  • Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo – PAM01269
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro – PAM01226
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro – PAM01229
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech – PAM01232
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Blu Profondo – PAM01289
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Grigio Roccia – PAM01288
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo – PAM01287
  • Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa – PAM01391

When it comes to its annual new releases, Panerai often tends to focus on one of its collections each year, and it was the Submersible that received the most new additions at Watches & Wonders Geneva. The new Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro models feature 44mm cases crafted from either traditional stainless steel, the brand’s recycled eSteel, or its proprietary carbon-based Carbotech material.

The new 44mm Submersible models fit in between the current 42mm and 47mm watches, expanding the number of options and also reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to sustainable materials. Panerai’s eSteel material has the same properties as conventional stainless steel, including identical chemical behavior, physical structure, and resistance to corrosion. However, as the alloy primarily consists of recycled materials, it is more sustainable than traditional steel and allows Panerai to decrease its environmental impact.

New Cartier Watches 2022

Tank Louis Cartier - Black Dial
Image: Cartier

New 2022 Cartier Models

  • New Cartier Santos-Dumont watches
  • Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise
  • Cartier Libre
  • New Cartier Pasha watches
  • New Cartier Panthère models
  • Cartier Tank Must – black dial
  • New Cartier Tank Louis models
  • Cartier Coussin de Cartier
  • Cartier Crash Métiers d’Art
  • Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

As a brand that is equally renowned for its jewelry as its watches, Cartier always produces elegant timepieces with distinct designs that are emblematic of the brand. For Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Cartier has unveiled a whole batch of new additions across a number of its different collections. Classic fan-favorites such as the Tank, Panthère, and Santos-Dumont all saw new models, in addition to a number of new Cartier Pasha watches, including everything from simple stainless steel models to complex references and even one with a flying tourbillon.

Additionally, Cartier has also leaned into its jewelry side with the new Cartier Libre, which is arguably more of a bracelet than an actual wristwatch. In fact, the watch component of it is reversible, meaning that it can be flipped around to appear as a normal bracelet with an entirely uninterrupted design. Beyond that, the new Cartier Masse Mystérieuse pays tribute to the brand’s history of creating mystery clocks, and features its entire movement as the winding weight, which can be seen rotating inside the case through its clear dial and case-back.

Paul Altieri