The Rolex Cellini was the brand’s dedicated line of dress watches, produced from 1968 until its discontinuation in 2023. Named after Renaissance goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, this collection represented the Rolex’s most elegant and refined timepieces, crafted exclusively in precious metals and designed without the signature Oyster case. These sophisticated dress watches are now exclusively available on the pre-owned market.
Key Takeaways
- Dedicated Dress Watch Line: The Rolex Cellini was the brand’s dedicated line of dress watches, crafted exclusively from solid gold or platinum throughout its production.
- Discontinued in 2023: The entire Rolex Cellini collection was discontinued in 2023, ending 55 years of continuous production.
- Pre-Owned Market Only: All Cellini models, including the modern Time, Date, Dual Time, and Moonphase references, are now exclusively available on the pre-owned market.
- Creative Diversity: The Cellini collection is renowned for its remarkable diversity and served as home to some of Rolex’s most creative and avant-garde designs.
- Perpetual 1908 Successor: The Rolex Perpetual 1908 serves as the successor to the Cellini collection, continuing Rolex’s dress watch tradition under a new name.
The end of the Cellini era marks a significant transition in Rolex’s catalog, transforming these once-overlooked timepieces into sought-after collectibles. Whether you’re drawn to the geometric creativity of vintage models like the Midas and Prince, or prefer the refined consistency of the modern 2014-2024 collection, understanding the Cellini’s place in horological history is essential for making an informed purchase in today’s pre-owned market.
Rolex Cellini History
Introduced in 1968, the Rolex Cellini lineup served as the brand’s home for non-Oyster dress watches throughout its 55-year production run. Rolex named the collection after the Florentine goldsmith, sculptor, and painter, Benvenuto Cellini, who was known for creating masterpieces during the Renaissance period that are still studied and celebrated today.
The first Cellini models were slim gold dress watches with time-only dials powered by manual-winding movements. They were markedly different from the robust Rolex Oyster watches of the era, which included models such as the Submariner, GMT-Master, Day-Date, Datejust, and Explorer. The “Oyster” designation in select Rolex watch models refers to its water-resistant Oyster case.
Conversely, Cellini watches never had Oyster cases and were not built with water resistance in mind. The evolution of Rolex Cellini history reveals how this design philosophy shaped decades of elegant dress watch development.
A Highly Diverse Collection
Over the following decades, Rolex expanded the Cellini line with a bevy of models ranging from the eight-sided Cellini Octagon and the asymmetrical Cellini Midas (modeled after the limited edition Rolex King Midas watch from the mid-1960s) to the cushion-shaped Danaos and Art Deco-inspired Prince. Regardless of the watch silhouette, all Rolex Cellini watches were made from precious metals – most frequently gold but sometimes platinum.
In 2014, Rolex took a page out of the Oyster collection playbook and redesigned the entire Cellini lineup to be more harmonious. All production Cellini watches from 2014 onward featured 39mm cases, double-stepped bezels, flared winding crowns, and leather straps. Three years later, Rolex released its first moonphase watch since the 1950s in the form of the Cellini Moonphase reference 50535.
Rolex Cellini Timeline
- Collection Launch (1968): Rolex introduces the Cellini collection as its dedicated dress watch line, departing from sport-focused Oyster models with slim gold cases and manual movements.
- Experimental Era (1970s): Cellini Midas debuts with bold asymmetrical cases, representing Rolex’s most experimental design period.
- Geometric Exploration (1980s): Cellini Octagon launches with distinctive eight-sided cases, expanding geometric design exploration.
- Major Expansion (1990s): Major expansion brings Cellini Danaos (cushion cases), Cellini Cestello (ultra-thin profile), and Ladies’ Cellini Cellissima.
- Platinum Introduction (2000s): Cellini Cellinium introduces platinum construction, elevating the collection to its most luxurious material tier.
- Heritage Revival (2005): Cellini Prince revives the Art Deco rectangular design from Rolex’s legendary 1928 Prince watch.
- Modern Redesign (2014): Complete collection redesign standardizes around 39mm cases, introducing Cellini Time, Date, and Dual Time with unified aesthetics.
- Technical Pinnacle (2017): Cellini Moonphase debuts as Rolex’s first moonphase watch since the 1950s, featuring meteorite moon displays.
- Collection End (2023): Rolex introduces the Perpetual 1908 as the Cellini’s successor and discontinues the entire Cellini collection after 55 years, officially ending the Cellini era and transforming all models into finite collectibles.
The End of the Cellini & The Perpetual 1908 Successor
After more than five decades in production, Rolex discontinued the entire Cellini collection in 2023 with the simultaneous introduction of the Rolex 1908 as its successor. This changing of the guard marked the end of the Cellini era while establishing a new dress watch line that inherits many of the collection’s core principles under a fresh identity.
The Perpetual 1908 serves as the spiritual successor to the Cellini, carrying forward Rolex’s commitment to elegant dress watches while establishing updated design language. Featuring a 39mm case similar to the modern Cellini but with significant differences, the 1908 is available in both yellow gold and white gold. More importantly, it incorporates Rolex’s modern Perpetual movement with a 66-hour power reserve, compared to the Cellini’s 48-hour reserve.
The transition reflects Rolex’s broader strategy of streamlining its catalog while maintaining presence in the dress watch segment. The 1908’s name pays homage to the year Rolex was officially registered, connecting the new collection to the brand’s foundational history rather than Renaissance artistry. This shift has transformed the Cellini from an active production line into a finite collection, creating new dynamics in the pre-owned market where collectors now view these watches as completed chapters in Rolex’s history.
The Modern Cellini Collection (2014-2024)
Following the 2014 redesign, Rolex standardized the Cellini collection around four main models that remained in production until the line’s discontinuation in 2024. These watches are now exclusively available on the pre-owned market and represent the final expression of Rolex’s Cellini vision.
All modern Cellini watches shared these characteristics:
- Round 39mm cases in either 18k white gold or Everose gold
- Double bezels with smooth and fluted surfaces
- Flared screw-down winding crowns
- “Rolex Genève” and “Cellini” dial inscriptions
- Sapphire crystals
- Fluted casebacks
- Leather straps with matching precious metal buckles
- Automatic movements with chronometer certification and 48-hour power reserve
- 50m water resistance
Cellini Time
The simplest modern Cellini watch, the Cellini Time featured a trio of hands indicating hours, minutes, and seconds. Two references were produced: the ref. 50509 in 18k white gold and the ref. 50505 in 18k Everose gold. Each model was available with brown or black leather straps and matching buckles.
The Cellini Time offered either white or black dials, both featuring oversized Roman numerals at the cardinal positions alongside long baton-style hour markers divided by an inner minute track. The automatic, chronometer-rated Caliber 3132 movement powered these elegant time-only watches. The clean, uncluttered dial design made the Cellini Time the purest expression of the collection’s dress watch philosophy.
Cellini Date
The Cellini Date added date functionality through a subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock rather than the traditional window found on Oyster watches. The two models were the ref. 50519 in white gold and the ref. 50515 in Everose gold.
These watches featured dials decorated with traditional guilloché technique, creating radiating lines from the center toward the periphery. Beyond subtle black and silver options, Rolex offered a striking blue dial version with coordinating blue leather strap. The Caliber 3165 automatic movement powered the date complication, maintaining the collection’s high chronometric standards while adding practical functionality for daily wear.
Cellini Dual Time
The most complex time-related Cellini, the Dual Time allowed wearers to track two time zones simultaneously. Local time appeared via central hands while the secondary time zone was displayed on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Since the second time zone followed a 12-hour rather than 24-hour format, Rolex included a day/night indicator showing a sun or moon within the secondary display.
Available as the ref. 50529 in white gold and ref. 50525 in Everose gold, both models offered black or silver guilloché dials topped with the characteristic elongated applied hour markers. The in-house Caliber 3180 self-winding movement managed the dual time complications while maintaining the collection’s reliability standards.
Cellini Moonphase
Introduced in 2017 as the collection’s finale, the Rolex Cellini Moonphase represented the brand’s first moonphase display since the 1950s. Only one reference was produced: the ref. 50535 in 18k Everose gold with a white lacquer dial.
The moonphase display occupied a blue enameled disc at 6 o’clock, with the moon itself represented by a small meteorite disc. Date indication came via a blue hand with a crescent moon tip pointing to numerals around the dial’s circumference. The self-winding Caliber 3195 movement powered these astronomical complications, making the Cellini Moonphase the most sophisticated expression of the collection’s technical capabilities.
Notable Vintage and Discontinued Models
Beyond the modern 2014-2024 collection, decades of Cellini production yielded numerous distinctive models that showcase Rolex’s experimental approach to dress watch design. These vintage and discontinued references demonstrate the collection’s evolution and offer unique collecting opportunities in the pre-owned market.
Cellini Midas
The Cellini Midas emerged in the 1970s with avant-garde designs characterized by asymmetrical cases inspired by the famous solid gold Rolex King Midas from the mid-1960s. These watches represented Rolex’s most artistic period, featuring unconventional case shapes that challenged traditional watchmaking aesthetics. The Midas models often incorporated textured gold surfaces and unusual proportions that made immediate identification as Rolex watches difficult, embodying the collection’s experimental spirit.
Cellini Classic
Throughout various production periods, the Cellini Classic maintained the line’s foundational principles with round, slim cases housing manual-winding movements and leather straps. These watches represented the purest interpretation of traditional dress watch design within the Rolex catalog, often featuring simple time-only displays with elegant proportions suitable for formal occasions.
Cellini Danaos
The vintage-inspired Rolex Cellini Danaos featured distinctive cushion-shaped cases that evoked early 20th-century watch design. These models demonstrated Rolex’s ability to reinterpret historical forms through modern manufacturing techniques, creating watches that felt both nostalgic and contemporary. The Danaos often incorporated subtle dial textures and applied markers that enhanced their vintage character.
Cellini Cestello
Notable for their ultra-thin construction, Cellini Cestello watches featured flat bezels and hinged lugs that created seamless transitions between case and strap. These models prioritized wearing comfort and discretion, making them ideal for situations requiring subtle elegance. The thin profile required careful engineering to maintain structural integrity while achieving the desired sleek appearance.
Cellini Cellissima
Designed specifically for women, the Cellini Cellissima line offered both round and oblong case options in various sizes. These watches often featured more decorative elements than their masculine counterparts, including gem-set bezels, mother-of-pearl dials, and delicate bracelet designs. The Cellissima models represented Rolex’s commitment to serving the luxury women’s watch market within the dress watch category.
Cellini Prince
Perhaps the most historically significant discontinued Cellini, the Prince featured an Art Deco rectangular case directly inspired by the legendary 1928 Rolex Prince watch. These models recreated the distinctive dual-dial layout with separate time and seconds displays, paying homage to one of the brand’s most important early innovations. The Rolex Cellini Prince connected the modern Cellini collection to Rolex’s foundational heritage in ways that other references could not.
Cellini Cellinium
The Cellinium models offered round platinum cases in both 35mm and 38mm sizes, providing alternatives to the gold-dominant Cellini lineup. Platinum’s density and rarity elevated these watches to the collection’s highest tier, both in terms of materials and pricing. The Cellinium references often featured matching platinum bracelets rather than leather straps, creating cohesive precious metal presentations.
The Refined Rolex Cellini Legacy
The Rolex Cellini collection is truly refinement at its best, and that’s saying a lot for a brand that’s known for over-engineered watches that are built to be worn every day and last multiple lifetimes. Due to its elegance and sheer modernity, the Rolex Cellini should be touted for its polished versatility; however, it often does not receive nearly the level of attention that it deserves simply due to the massive notoriety of its siblings within the Rolex catalog.
Due to its elegance and sheer modernity, the Rolex Cellini should be touted for its polished versatility. Whether or not you ultimately want to add a Rolex Cellini to your collection is an entirely personal decision. However, it still remains a rather undeniable fact that the Rolex Cellini is the brand’s most elegant and refined line of timepieces, and one that offers exceptional value for the money, especially when purchased on the pre-owned market.
With all of that being said, we hope next time you spot a Rolex Cellini you’ll at least take a second look and consider this as more than just a dress watch, but an important part of Rolex’s history and brand identity.
