Rolex Explorer 1655

History of the Rolex Explorer II 1655

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 made its debut in 1971 as Rolex's answer to the specialized needs of professional spelunkers and cave explorers. Unlike its predecessor, the standard Explorer, this new model featured a distinctive 24-hour display designed to help underground adventurers maintain their circadian rhythms in environments where natural light cues were absent. The watch's bold aesthetic, featuring a bright orange GMT-style hand known as the "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow"), immediately set it apart from anything else in the Rolex catalog.

The nickname "Steve McQueen" became attached to the 1655 through a combination of marketing imagery and collector folklore, though historical records show the Hollywood icon never actually owned or wore this particular model. Despite this misconception, the moniker stuck and has become an integral part of the watch's identity among collectors. The association with McQueen's rugged, adventurous persona perfectly captured the spirit of this unconventional Rolex.

Production of the Explorer II 1655 was relatively limited, spanning just 14 years before Rolex discontinued the model in 1985. During this period, several dial variations emerged, creating distinct "Mark" classifications that collectors prize today. The 1655's unique place in Rolex history was cemented when the brand introduced the modern Explorer II reference 16570 in 1985, featuring a white dial and more conventional styling that marked a significant departure from the original's bold design language.

Rolex 1655 Specifications

The Explorer II 1655 distinguished itself through several unique design elements that made it instantly recognizable among Rolex offerings. The most prominent feature was undoubtedly the bright orange 24-hour hand, officially known as the "Freccione," which swept around the fixed 24-hour bezel to provide a second timezone or day/night indication. This bold color choice was both functional and aesthetic, ensuring maximum visibility in low-light conditions while creating a striking visual focal point.

The 39mm stainless steel case struck an ideal balance between presence and wearability, especially for the early 1970s when watch cases were generally smaller. Rolex paired this case with their reliable Caliber 1575 automatic movement, the same reliable mechanism found in contemporary GMT-Master models. The matte black dial featured applied luminous hour markers and hands, with the distinctive "EXPLORER II" text positioned prominently below the Rolex crown logo.

Essential specifications of the Rolex 1655:

• Case diameter: 39mm stainless steel with brushed finish
• Movement: Caliber 1575 automatic with 42-hour power reserve
• Dial: Matte black with applied luminous markers
• Hands: Mercedes-style hour and minute hands with luminous fill
• 24-hour hand: Distinctive orange "Freccione" hand
• Bezel: Fixed stainless steel with 24-hour graduated markings
• Bracelet: 9315 Oyster bracelet with 380 end links (early models)
• Water resistance: 100 meters with screw-down crown and caseback

Dial and Mark Variations (Mk I-Mk V)

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 underwent subtle but significant dial changes throughout its production run, resulting in five distinct "Mark" variations that collectors meticulously catalog and pursue. These variations primarily involve text positioning, font styles, and minor design elements that evolved as Rolex refined the model over its 14-year production span. Understanding these differences is crucial for collectors, as certain Mark variations command premium prices due to their rarity or distinctive characteristics.

The evolution from Mark I through Mark V reflects Rolex's continuous refinement of the design, with each variation representing a specific production period. Early Mark dials tend to be more valuable among collectors due to their limited production numbers and connection to the model's original specifications. Later Mark variations incorporated subtle improvements while maintaining the overall aesthetic that made the 1655 so distinctive.

Why Collectors Love the Rolex Explorer 1655

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 occupies a unique position in vintage Rolex collecting due to its bold departure from the brand's typically conservative design philosophy. During an era when most luxury watches favored understated elegance, Rolex created something genuinely unconventional with the 1655's bright orange hand and purpose-built functionality. This willingness to prioritize function over traditional aesthetics resulted in a timepiece that perfectly captured the adventurous spirit of the early 1970s.

Collectors are drawn to the 1655's authentic tool watch heritage, as it represents one of the last truly specialized Rolex models designed for a specific professional application. Unlike many modern "sports" watches that primarily serve lifestyle purposes, the Explorer II 1655 was engineered to solve real problems faced by cave explorers and spelunkers. This genuine utility, combined with its relatively short production run, creates a compelling narrative that resonates with serious collectors.

The model's connection to the broader cultural moment of the 1970s adds another layer of appeal. The 1655 emerged during a period of bold experimentation in watch design, and its uncompromising aesthetic reflects the decade's embrace of functional, no-nonsense design. Today's collectors appreciate how the 1655 stands as a time capsule of this era, representing Rolex's willingness to take creative risks that seem almost unthinkable in today's more risk-averse luxury market.

Rolex Explorer 1655 Prices and Value Today

The market for Rolex Explorer II 1655 watches has experienced significant appreciation over the past decade, with prices reflecting both the model's historical importance and its relative scarcity. Current market values vary considerably based on factors including dial variation, overall condition, service history, and the presence of original components. Well-preserved examples with original dials and hands command premium prices, while watches that have been heavily serviced or modified may trade at more accessible levels.

Authenticity remains paramount in 1655 valuation, as the model's popularity has unfortunately led to various forms of modification and outright counterfeiting. Original orange hands are particularly valuable, as many examples have had these distinctive components replaced during service intervals when replacement parts were more readily available. Collectors should also verify the authenticity of dial components, as aftermarket dials have appeared in the marketplace.

Factors that significantly impact value include originality of all components, presence of service documentation, case condition without excessive polishing, and provenance when available. Bob's Watches provides transparent pricing based on thorough evaluation of each timepiece, ensuring customers understand exactly what they're purchasing and why specific examples command their asking prices.

Buying a Rolex Explorer II 1655

Purchasing a Rolex Explorer II 1655 requires careful attention to authenticity and condition details that can significantly impact both value and long-term satisfaction. The most critical element to verify is dial originality, as replacement dials were common during service intervals and can dramatically affect collectibility. Original dials should display consistent aging patterns on luminous markers and hands, with no signs of refinishing or repainting that would compromise authenticity.

Case condition represents another crucial consideration, as many vintage Rolex watches have been over-polished during service, removing the crisp edges and proportions that define the original design. Look for cases that retain sharp lugs and case band definition, with brushed surfaces showing appropriate wear patterns rather than excessive polishing. The distinctive fixed bezel should show normal wear but remain securely attached with clear, legible markings.

Essential buying checklist for the Rolex 1655:

• Verify dial authenticity and consistent aging across all luminous elements
• Confirm original orange "Freccione" hand is present and unmodified
• Check case condition for proper proportions and minimal polishing
• Ensure movement matches reference number and shows appropriate service history
• Verify bracelet authenticity and end link compatibility
• Request documentation of service history and any component replacements
• Confirm water resistance testing if planning regular wear
• Validate seller reputation and authenticity guarantees

Bob's Watches eliminates much of the guesswork involved in vintage Rolex purchasing through our comprehensive authentication process and detailed condition reporting. Our team of experts evaluates every aspect of each timepiece, providing customers with complete transparency about condition, originality, and value. This expertise proves particularly valuable when purchasing high-value vintage references like the 1655, where subtle details can significantly impact authenticity and long-term value.

FAQs about the Rolex Explorer 1655