Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe History

The history of Patek Philippe began in 1839 when Antoni Patek started making pocket watches in Geneva, eventually forming a partnership with Adrien Philippe, the inventor of the keyless winding system. That combination of business vision and technical innovation set the foundation for what would become the most respected name in watchmaking. Since 1932, the Stern family has owned the company, making it the last independent, family owned luxury watch manufacturer in Geneva. You can explore the full history of Patek Philippe watches to see how royal commissions, world record auction sales, and centuries of innovation have shaped this brand into the gold standard for horology.

Patek Philippe Model Collections

Patek Philippe structures its catalog into clearly defined collections, each with its own focus. Some models are sporty, particularly the steel watches that tend to dominate conversation. Others are classic dress watches with incredible proportion and restraint. And then there’s the complicated models that showcase what the brand does at its highest level. However you approach collecting, there’s usually a collection that aligns with it. Below is a closer look at each one.

Nautilus

When the Nautilus arrived in 1976, it quietly shifted the definition of what a luxury watch could be. Gérald Genta’s porthole-inspired case and integrated bracelet didn’t look like anything else in high watchmaking at the time. It was sporty, yes, but still unmistakably high end. And perhaps most surprising, it was made in stainless steel, at a moment when gold was still the default signal of prestige. That decision felt risky back then. In hindsight, it’s what turned the Nautilus into one of the most important designs of the last half century.

Today, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is arguably the most famous watch in the world. The blue dial 5711 reached legendary status before Patek discontinued it, and even the newer 5811 and vintage 3700 references are incredibly difficult to source. These aren’t watches you simply decide to buy on a whim. For many collectors, securing a Nautilus still feels like a milestone, the kind of watch that marks a certain level in the journey.

Aquanaut

Patek released the Aquanaut in 1997, a bold move for a brand rooted in tradition. It featured a modern, rounded octagon case and a "Tropical" composite strap designed to resist salt water and UV exposure. The result was a watch that felt younger and more adventurous than anything else in the Patek catalog.

The Aquanaut is often compared to the Nautilus, but it’s own niche collection over time. It feels a bit more relaxed. Sportier, more contemporary, especially on the composite strap. References like the 5167A are consistently among the most requested Patek models we see. Part of that comes down to wearability. It’s a watch you can put on every day without overthinking it, while still carrying the weight of the Patek name. And relative to other models in the catalog, it tends to sit at a slightly more approachable entry point.

Calatrava

To understand what a true dress watch looks like, the Calatrava is the place to start. Introduced in 1932, it set the template early on. Restrained dials, slim cases, and proportions that feel deliberate rather than decorative. The Bauhaus idea of form following function is often mentioned in connection with this series, and you can see why. Nothing feels unnecessary. Over time, the Calatrava became more than just another model in the catalog. In many ways, it’s the quiet foundation of Patek Philippe’s identity.

Whether it features the famous hobnail "Clous de Paris" bezel or a simple polished finish, theCalatrava is perfect for formal occasions. It’s slim, measured, and comfortable in formal settings without feeling forced. There’s no oversized case or dramatic complication competing for attention. The appeal is quieter than that. And for anyone who spends time around watches, the details, like the proportions, the finishing, the restraint, tend to speak for themselves.

Grand Complications

This is where Patek Philippe flexes its technical muscle. Grand Complications watches do far more than tell time. They track moon phases, chime the hours with minute repeaters, and maintain perpetual calendars that account for leap years without manual correction for centuries.

Owning a Patek Philippe Grand Complication is like owning a mechanical computer for your wrist. These are the watches that shatter records at international auctions, including the Grandmaster Chime that sold for over $31 million. They represent the absolute summit of what human hands can build.

Complications

While not quite as intricate as the "Grand" versions, the Patek Philippe Complications line is still far ahead of what most other brands can even try to produce. These models often include annual calendars, world time displays, and dual time zones, all of which are genuinely useful for frequent travelers and business professionals.

The Annual Calendar was actually invented by Patek Philippe in 1996, and it only requires a single adjustment each year at the end of February. It’s a great example of the brand making high watchmaking practical for everyday life. A serious mechanical achievement with real world convenience.

Golden Ellipse

The Golden Ellipse is something of an insider's favorite. Its distinctive shape is based on the "golden ratio" found in ancient Greek architecture and Renaissance art, which is why the proportions look so naturally balanced even though the case is neither round nor square.

It is a very thin, very elegant watch that typically comes on a leather strap or a fine gold mesh bracelet. The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse offers something different from the standard round case while remaining unmistakably classic. Its distinctive proportions and restrained design give it a quiet presence that feels thoughtful rather than conventional.

Gondolo

The Gondolo collection channels the funky Art Deco spirit of the early 20th century. These watches come in shaped cases like rectangles and cushions, inspired by the historic Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches that Patek once produced for a prominent Brazilian retailer.

They’re quite beautiful, artistic timepieces that stand apart in a market dominated by round cases. Gondolo watches are an excellent reminder that Patek Philippe has always valued geometry and design as much as the movement beating inside.

Twenty~4

Introduced in 1999, the Twenty~4 marked a shift in how Patek approached its women’s collection. It was developed as a watch that could move easily through the day, Professional settings, evenings out, everything in between, without feeling out of place. The design was practical but still very Patek, and over time the collection proved it had real staying power.

Offered in both the original rectangular quartz format and later round automatic models, the Twenty~4 has evolved in ways that give it real range within the Patek catalog. The bracelet-style “manchette” version, in particular, has become closely associated with the collection. It wears like a piece of fine jewelry first, but with the finishing and precision you expect from Patek.

Cubitus

The Cubitus is the newest addition to the Patek Philippe family, and it has already generated quite the buzz across the watch world. It draws on the sporty DNA of the Nautilus but reinterprets it in a square case with softened corners. The result is a geometric design that feels distinct within the Patek lineup without straying too far from its roots.

It is a fresh interpretation of the luxury sports watch that proves Patek Philippe isn’t afraid to push boundaries. The Patek Philippe Cubitus is perfect for collectors who already own all the other classics.

Neptune

The Neptune is a hidden gem from the 1990s with a dressier, nautical aesthetic compared to the more well known sports models. It features a distinctive engine turned bezel and an integrated bracelet for a flowing, refined look on the wrist.

Discontinued years ago, the Neptune remains a favorite among collectors who appreciate rarity and designs that most people have never encountered. It is a perfect example of Patek Philippe's ability to produce watches that are both sporty and elegantly finished.

Cocktail Watches

Vintage Patek Philippe Cocktail watches sit at the intersection of horology and high jewelry. They were often produced in very limited quantities, featuring exquisite gem setting and hidden dials tucked inside ornate gold bracelets.

Owning a cocktail watch is like owning a piece of mid-century glamour. They go far beyond standard timekeeping, serving as wearable works of art designed for the most formal and exclusive occasions.

Patek Philippe Price Trends: Market Report

Over the past decade, the Patek Philippe market has shifted in noticeable ways. What was once steady, predictable growth has turned into something many collectors now view as long-term, blue-chip territory. Looking at our own sales data at Bob’s Watches, you can see how certain collections have moved over time. Some have been consistent. Others have surprised even seasoned buyers.

Nautilus Market Performance

The Nautilus is still one of the most exciting Patek Philippes on the secondary market. Our data shows that Nautilus references have experienced dramatic price movement over the past several years. A 5711, for example, traded for under $20,000 back in 2017, but by 2023, we saw transactions consistently clearing $100,000, with a peak sale of $139,995 recorded in early 2025. That level of appreciation says a lot about how scarce the model truly is, and how seriously it’s viewed among seasoned collectors around the world.

Even beyond the 5711, the broader Nautilus family commands strong prices. References like the 5712 and the ladies' 7118 continue to hold significant value, while vintage watches like the 3800 have seen renewed interest as collectors look for entry points into the collection. The Nautilus market has cooled slightly from its 2022 and 2023 highs, but pricing remains well above historical norms, and any dip tends to attract buyers quickly.

Aquanaut Market Performance

The Aquanaut collection, especially the popular reference 5167, has followed a trajectory similar to the Nautilus, though at a more accessible price range. Our sales data shows the 5167 trading around $43,000 in 2019 before climbing to an average of approximately $69,000 during the 2022 peak. As of 2025, the Aquanaut market has reached prices around $75,000 across the collection.

Travel time variants and precious metal references, such as the 5164R, have shown their own strength, with individual transactions climbing well into the six figures. The Aquanaut continues to appeal to those who want sport watches, without stepping directly into the intensity that surrounds certain Nautilus references.

Traditional Collections: Steady Appreciation

The appreciation trend extends well beyond the sports models. Calatrava dress watches have seen their average transaction value climb from approximately $11,800 in 2019 to nearly $20,000 in 2025, with certain gold references trading above $35,000. That growth suggests collectors are paying closer attention to Patek’s classic dress watches, recognizing that their appeal isn’t just aesthetic. The value tends to follow the design.

The Twenty~4 collection has experienced one of the most notable climbs in the entire Patek catalog. Models that consistently traded around $7,000 between 2015 and 2017 have reached an average sale price of roughly $19,400 in 2025. Meanwhile, the Complications line has shown strong upward momentum, with average sales increasing from about $27,700 in 2019 to over $47,000 in 2025. These numbers suggest that collectors are increasingly looking at mechanical complexity as a genuine store of value.

Patek Philippe Specifications and Features

Beyond the brand name and design, Patek Philippe watches are defined by the quality of their materials, movements, and finishing. Here is a closer look at the details that separate these timepieces from the rest of the luxury market.

Materials

Patek Philippe primarily works with 18k gold and platinum, though their stainless steel models are, somewhat ironically, among the most coveted watches in the world. The company finishes everything in-house. Every surface is polished to a mirror shine or brushed with meticulous precision.

The brand even developed its own rose gold alloy, formulated to maintain its warmth over time.  Every case is finished by hand, with polishing processes that can require hours of work for a single component.

Movements

Every modern Patek Philippe movement has the Patek Philippe Seal, a quality standard that exceeds the requirements of traditional chronometer certification. What’s more, thebrand is known for its thin, automatic calibers that allow even the most complex watches to sit comfortably under a shirt sleeve.

Through the sapphire casebacks on many models, the movement finishing is fully on display: Geneva stripes, perlage, and carefully beveled edges throughout. What's truly remarkable, though, is that the same level of attention carries into components most owners will never actually see. The standard doesn’t change just because the case is closed.

Annual Calendar and Moon Phase

The Annual Calendar is a signature Patek Philippe invention, requiring only one manual correction each year at the end of February. When it debuted in 1996, it was a revolutionary development that made high complication watchmaking genuinely practical for daily wear.

When paired with the brand's high precision moon phase indicator, which deviates by just one day every 122 years, the result is a masterpiece of mechanical logic. Patek usually houses these complications in elegant gold cases, and they represent the technical heart of the Patek Philippe catalog.

Dials and Complications

Patek Philippe dials are frequently crafted from solid gold or brass and finished with labor intensive techniques like sunburst polishing or gradient "fume" effects. When it comes to complications, from minute repeaters that chime the time audibly to split seconds chronographs, Patek truly sets the industry standard.

The dials are, surprisingly, often the most expensive components of the watch to produce. The precision found in the applied markers, hand painted scales, and hand finished surfaces is a level of detail that other watchmakers can only dream to acheive.

Bezels

Whether it’s the "Clous de Paris" hobnail pattern or the brushed porthole shape of a Nautilus, the bezel defines the character of every Patek Philippe watch. Each one is hand finished to catch the light perfectly as the wrist moves.

On the sports models, the bezel is often the most exposed part of the case, yet it’s still finished with such precision that it looks and feels like fine jewelry. The contrast between polished edges and satin brushed surfaces is a signature of the brand's very famous design language.

Sizes

Patek Philippe watches come in many sizes between 35mm and 39mm. At the same time, newer references like the Cubitus and the updated Nautilus 5811 have moved into the 40mm to 45mm range to suit the preferences of modern collectors.

Because their watches tend to be very thin relative to the diameter, they often wear more comfortably on the wrist than competitors of the same case size. A 40mm Patek Philippe typically feels more refined and balanced than a standard sport watch from another brand.

Water Resistance

The dress watches can handle the occasional splash, but the sportier collections, like the Aquanaut, are rated to 100 meters of water resistance. In practical terms, that’s more than enough for swimming or time near the water. Whether most owners actually test that limit is another story, especially when precious metals are involved.

Keep in mind that leather straps are not intended for water exposure. If you plan on wearing your Patek near the water, make sure it is fitted with a metal bracelet or a composite strap first.

Watch Bands

From hand stitched alligator straps to the signature "Tropical" composite bands on the Aquanaut, the quality of Patek Philippe watch bands is really second to none. Their metal bracelets are widely regarded as some of the most comfortable around, thanks to carefully articulated links and seamless finishing.

The folding clasps often feature the Calatrava Cross, a mark of the brand's commitment to quality. Plus, every link in the bracelet is hand-polished to ensure a smooth feel against the skin.

Expert Opinion

"Patek Philippe remains the absolute peak of watchmaking because they never compromise on the hand finished details that machines simply cannot replicate. If you want a timepiece that will be just as relevant and valuable fifty years from now as it is today, this is the only brand that consistently delivers on that promise."

- Paul Altieri, Founder & CEO of Bob's Watches

Why Choose Bob's Watches for Patek Philippe

Buying a Patek Philippe is a really big decision, and you deserve a partner who treats the transaction with the care it warrants. At Bob's Watches, we’vespent decades building a reputation for transparency, and every watch we sell is physically in our possession and ready for immediate shipping. We do not engage in middleman sales. We only list Patek Philippe watches that our in house team has personally inspected and authenticated.

Our "open book" pricing model means you can see exactly what the market value is for any watch at any given time. We provide a safe, secure, and professional environment for you to acquire the world's finest timepieces without the long waits or uncertainty found at traditional boutiques. When you buy from Bob's Watches, you are not just getting a watch. You are getting the peace of mind that comes with a lifetime authenticity guarantee.

• In Stock Inventory: We only list what we actually have in our vault.
• Expert Authentication: Every watch is verified by our team of trained watchmakers.
• Transparent Pricing: No "price on request" games, just fair market value.
• Next Day Delivery: We ship all orders via fully insured overnight mail.

Sell Your Pre-Owned Patek Philippe Watch

If you are looking to sell your Patek Philippe, you want a process that is as refined as the watch itself. At Bob's Watches, we offer a streamlined, secure way to receive a competitive market offer for your timepiece without the risks of public marketplaces or the delays of auction houses. Whether it is a vintage Calatrava or a modern Nautilus, we provide instant quotes based on real time global demand.

Our process is built on trust and speed. We provide a fully insured shipping label and deliver immediate payment once the watch passes verification. Selling a Patek Philippe has never been easier, and our team is here to help you unlock the value of your investment with total confidence.