Audemars Piguet Watches

History of Audemars Piguet

Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded Audemars Piguet in 1875 in the remote Vallee de Joux region of Switzerland. This valley, tucked high in the Jura Mountains, was already home to a concentrated tradition of watchmaking, which the founders certainly took advantage of. From the very beginning, the firm focused on complicated movements, producing minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and split seconds chronographs that earned recognition at international exhibitions. Their early work laid the foundation for what the company stands for today.

A major turning point came in 1972 with the introduction of the Royal Oak. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, it was the first luxury sports watch made from stainless steel, a material that was considered far too common for a high-end timepiece at the time. The gamble paid off spectacularly, though. The Royal Oak not only saved the company during the devastating Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, it created an entirely new category of watchmaking. Decades later, it remains central to Audemars Piguet’s history and identity. Not just as an icon, but as the blueprint for much of what followed.

Audemars Piguet Collections

The Audemars Piguet catalog covers a surprising amount of ground, from sporty chronographs to delicate dress watches. Each collection has its own character and appeal. Having a basic grasp of the lineup is key to finding the right watch for your wrist and your budget.

The Royal Oak

The Royal Oak is where it all started, and it remains the single most important luxury sport watch in the world. When Gérald Genta sketched the Royal Oak in 1972, he gave it an octagonal bezel anchored by eight exposed screws, a detail that still defines the watch at a glance. The textured “Tapisserie” dial, with its distinctive waffle pattern, today, adds depth without relying on ornament. Over the years, the model has shifted in size and configuration, from the original 39mm “Jumbo” to today’s 41mm selfwinding versions, but the core idea has remained intact. The proportions, the bezel, the integrated bracelet. They’re still immediately familiar, even as the watch has evolved.

What makes the Royal Oak such a versatile watch is that it works in virtually any setting. It’s impressive enouogh for high-stakes business meetings and tough enough for a weekend on the water. The integrated bracelet sits flat on the wrist and wears more comfortably than most watches in its class. Whether you choose a time only reference or a chronograph with a date display, the Royal Oak delivers a wearing experience that is difficult to match at any price.

The Royal Oak Offshore

When the Royal Oak Offshore came to market in 1993, it was much larger and more assertive than the original, enough so that collectors quickly gave it the nickname “The Beast.” Case sizes started at 42mm and eventually moved beyond 44mm, shifting the proportions in a way that felt intentional rather than incremental. Materials like rubber, forged carbon, and ceramic further separated it from the classic Royal Oak, giving the collection a more contemporary, athletic character.

Where the original Royal Oak feels measured and architectural, the Offshore carries more weight on the wrist. Chronographs have long been central to the collection, and newer references continue to experiment with color and material in ways that keep it current. It’s still unmistakably AP. Just interpreted with a bit more force.

Code 11.59

The Code 11.59 is Audemars Piguet's most ambitious modern collection, and it took a few years for the watch world to fully appreciate it. The name pays homage to the idea that the next revolution is always one minute away. The case hsa a rather complex construction with an octagonal middle case sandwiched between round outer surfaces, and the double curved sapphire crystal creates a visual depth that is unlike anything else in the AP catalog.

Early reactions to the Code 11.59 were mixed, but the collection has steadily gained respect as collectors have had the chance to see it in person. The finishing on these watches is extraordinary, and the range of available complications, from simple three hand models to grande sonneries, shows that AP sees this line as a long term cornerstone of the brand. If you’re looking beyond the Royal Oak profile, Code 11.59 offers a different expression of AP, one that feels more forward-looking without abandoning the brand’s technical foundation.

Millenary

The Millenary stands apart is unique, thanks to its distinctive oval case shape. Introduced in 1995, the collection was designed to showcase the movement as part of the dial itself. Off centered dial openings expose the inner workings of the caliber, turning each Millenary into a small window into the art of watchmaking.

Even though the Millenary isn’t in production anymore, it’s still quite popular on the secondary market. The bold shape and visible movement make it a conversation piece, and prices for pre owned models tend to be more accessible than the Royal Oak family. The Millenary tends to resonate with those who gravitate toward unconventional shapes and like seeing the mechanics brought to the surface.

Jules Audemars

Named for one of the company’s founders, the Jules Audemars collection is more of a classical expression of Audemars Piguet. The cases are round, the proportions restrained, and the focus shifts away from sport toward traditional complications. Perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and ultra-thin movements feature prominently here, handled with the same technical seriousness found elsewhere in the brand’s catalog. The finishing doesn’t call attention to itself. But it holds up under close inspection, even alongside the Royal Oak.

The Jules Audemars line is also one of the most affordable ways to get into the brand. Pre owned examples with simpler time only movements can be found well below the $10,000 mark, which is remarkable for a watch carrying the Audemars Piguet name. If you want the heritage and the handcraft without the sport watch premium, this collection deserves your attention.

Edward Piguet

The Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet stands as a tribute to one of the brand's founders, showcasing a commitment to classical elegance with its distinctive rectangular case and clean lines. This series captures the essence of timeless design combined with modern horological innovations, offering a sophisticated option for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Its sleek profile and meticulous craftsmanship make the Edward Piguet an exemplary choice for those who value understated luxury and historical richness in their timepieces.

Vintage and Discontinued Models

Audemars Piguet's history stretches back to the 19th century, and the brand's earlier work is becoming increasingly collectible. Vintage 36mm Royal Oaks from the 1970s and 1980s have a charm that modern references simply cannot replicate. They often trade at prices that surprise people given the brand's current reputation. Antique pocket watches from the early 1900s, while rare, represent the true DNA of the company and are prized by serious horological collectors.

Discontinued models also command attention. Earlier examples of the Royal Oak Offshore and limited edition watches tend to appreciate once they leave the catalog, especially when they come with original boxes and documentation. Older and discontinued AP models can be especially compelling, particularly for those willing to spend time studying the details and the history behind them.

Audemars Piguet Specifications

Understanding the technical details behind an Audemars Piguet watch helps explain why these timepieces command the prices they do. Every element, from the case material to the clasp on the bracelet, reflects a level of precision and care that separates AP from the broader luxury market.

Materials

Across its collections, Audemars Piguet works with a focused mix of materials rather than chasing novelty. The dressier watches use 18k rose, yellow, and white gold, while stainless steel and grade 5 titanium anchor much of the sport lineup. Black ceramic has also become an important part of the brand’s modern identity. It’s exceptionally hard and resistant to scratches, but also demanding to shape and finish properly, which makes the final result all the more notable once you see it up close.

Platinum makes occasional appearances in limited and high complication models, and more recent releases have introduced forged carbon and bronze alloys. Regardless of the material, the finishing is always immaculate. AP's commitment to hand polished and hand brushed surfaces is what gives their watches that unmistakable feel on the wrist.

Movement

Audemars Piguet applies a level of finishing to its movements that doesn’t vary much from one tier to the next. Cotes de Geneve striping, hand beveled bridges, and polished screw heads are standard across the brand’s portfolio. The brand has invested heavily in developing modern in house calibers, and the current generation of movements hasimproved power reserves, thinner profiles, and more efficient winding systems compared to earlier generations.

Whether it is a simple three hand automatic or a grand complication with a minute repeater and perpetual calendar, the movement inside an AP watch is meant to be admired. Many models feature exhibition case backs that allow the wearer to see the level of decoration and craftsmanship that goes into every component.

Bezel

The octagonal bezel is the single most recognizable design element in the Audemars Piguet catalog. Introduced with the original Royal Oak in 1972, it features eight hexagonal screws that are both decorative and functional. These screws are made from white gold on steel models and are individually finished to sit perfectly flush with the bezel surface.

Achieving the alternating brushed and polished surfaces on the bezel is a labor intensive process. The crisp transitions between finishes are a hallmark of AP's quality, and they are one of the first things experts look for when authenticating a piece. On the Royal Oak Offshore, the bezel is more robust with added thickness and, in some references, ceramic construction.

Sizes

Audemars Piguet makes its watches in a range of case sizes to suit different wrists and preferences. The Royal Oak line spans from 34mm models designed for smaller wrists up to the 41mm self winding that has become the brand's most popular reference. The Royal Oak Offshore starts at 42mm and stretches to 44mm in its chronograph variants, delivering a bolder presence that suits collectors who prefer a larger watch.

The Code 11.59 sits at 41mm, while the Jules Audemars collection typically ranges from 36mm to 41mm. Audemars Piguet also produces ladies' models across several collections, with sizes starting as small as 33mm. The diversity in sizing means there is an AP for nearly every wrist, though the most popular models tend to cluster in the 39mm to 42mm range.

Water Resistance

Water resistance varies significantly across the Audemars Piguet catalog and is tied directly to each collection's intended use. The standard Royal Oak carries a water resistance rating of 50 meters, which is suitable enough for daily wear and light splashes but is not designed for swimming or diving. It’s a dress sport watch at heart, and the rating reflects that.

The Royal Oak Offshore Diver, on the other hand, is rated to 300 meters and is a legitimate tool watch capable of handling serious water exposure. Models in between, like the standard Offshore chronograph, typically sit at 100 meters. When shopping for a pre owned AP, it is always wise to have the water resistance tested and the gaskets inspected, especially on older dive watches.

Watch Bands

Audemars Piguet's integrated bracelet design is one of the engineering highlights of the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections. The bracelet flows seamlessly from the case, creating a unified look that is both visually striking and remarkably comfortable on the wrist. On the Royal Oak, the steel bracelet features the same brushed and polished finishing found on the case, and the butterfly clasp folds neatly under the wrist.

For leather and rubber options, AP uses high quality alligator straps with a distinctive texture, and the Offshore line has popularized the use of vulcanized rubber straps that are both durable and comfortable in warm weather. Newer references also incorporate quick release systems, making it easy to swap between a bracelet and a strap without tools. This versatility allows owners to dress their watch up or down depending on the occasion.

Expert Opinion

Audemars Piguet is an excellent choice for collectors who values hand finished craftsmanship over mass market appeal. It’s the boldest member of the Holy Trinity and a rock solid addition to any high end watch box.

- Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches

Audemars Piguet Price Trends and Market Report

The Audemars Piguet market has undergone a dramatic transformation over the last several years. Tracking completed sales data from our own inventory gives us a clear picture of where values have been and where they may be heading. Here is what the numbers show.

Overall Price Growth

Average sale prices for Audemars Piguet watches have climbed significantly since the mid 2010s. In 2017, the average AP sold through our platform went for roughly $13,595. By 2024, that figure had nearly tripled to a peak of approximately $38,614. This kind of growth reflects a broader market shift toward independent, high complication watchmakers, but it also speaks to the particular strength of the AP brand among collectors and enthusiasts.

The Royal Oak Premium

The Royal Oak is the engine that drives Audemars Piguet pricing. Across recent sales in 2024 and 2025, the Royal Oak averaged around $41,827, making it the brand's most valuable standard collection by a wide margin. The range is considerable, with entry level steel references starting near $30,000 and top tier pieces, particularly in precious metals or with complications, reaching as high as $110,000. Demand for the Royal Oak shows no signs of weakening, and the model continues to set the pace for the entire brand.

Royal Oak Offshore Values

The Royal Oak Offshore, affectionately known as "The Beast" among collectors, has carved out its own strong position in the market. Recent average prices sit at roughly $30,627. The Offshore attracts buyers who want the AP DNA in a bolder, more modern package, and its larger case sizes and rugged materials give it a personality that is distinct from the Royal Oak. Chronograph variants have averaged around $40,000 in recent transactions, making them a compelling option for collectors who want both a tool watch and a luxury statement.

Entry Points and Value Picks

Not every Audemars Piguet watch requires a six figure budget. The Jules Audemars collection offers one of the most accessible entry points into the brand, with recent average prices of around $20,000. These are classically styled dress watches that carry the same level of movement finishing and heritage as their more famous siblings. For anyone looking to enter the world of AP without the Royal Oak price tag, this collection is worth serious consideration.

2025 Market Stabilization

After years of steady appreciation, 2025 has brought a noticeable cooling in the Audemars Piguet market. Average prices have softened compared to the 2024 peak, settling closer to the $29,000 to $30,000 range across the brand. While some may see this as a correction, experienced collectors view it differently. A period of stabilization after rapid growth is normal and healthy, and it has created some of the best buying opportunities we have seen in years. If you have been waiting for the right moment to add an AP to your collection, the current market is worth a close look.

Popular Audemars Piguet Comparisons

Two of the most common questions we hear are "How does Audemars Piguet compare to Rolex?" and "Is AP better than Patek Philippe?" Both comparisons are fair, but the answer depends on what a collector values most.

Audemars Piguet vs. Rolex

Rolex is the undisputed king of brand recognition. It is the most famous watch name in the world, and its resale market is the largest and most liquid. But when it comes to hand finishing, movement decoration, and overall exclusivity, Audemars Piguet operates on a different level. AP produces far fewer watches per year, and each movement receives hours of hand finishing that Rolex simply does not offer at the same scale. Think of it this way: Rolex is the watch everyone knows, and AP is the watch that watch people know.

Audemars Piguet vs. Patek Philippe

This comparison is closer, since both brands belong to the so called "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking alongside Vacheron Constantin. Patek Philippe tends to be more traditional and conservative in its design language, while Audemars Piguet has always embraced a sportier, more contemporary aesthetic. Patek commands top dollar for ultra complicated dress watches and its legendary perpetual calendar models, but AP dominates the luxury sport watch segment with the Royal Oak. Neither brand is objectively "better" than the other. They serve different tastes within the same elite tier of Swiss watchmaking.

Why Choose Bob's Watches for Your Audemars Piguet?

When you are spending tens of thousands of dollars on an Audemars Piguet watch, trust is everything. The AP market is unfortunately a target for counterfeiters, and even experienced buyers can be fooled by high quality fakes. That is why our in house team inspects, authenticates, and certifies every single watch before it goes up for sale. We own every watch in our inventory, which means we have real skin in the game. If a watch does not meet our standards, it does not make it to the site.

We also believe that buying a luxury watch should not feel like a negotiation at a car dealership. Our pricing is based on real market data from completed sales, not inflated asking prices. Every listing reflects what we believe is a fair value in the current market, and that transparency is something we take seriously. Whether you’re buying your first Audemars Piguet or adding to a collection, we want the process to feel straightforward, honest, and free of the pressure tactics that are too common in this space.

Sell Your Pre Owned Audemars Piguet

If you are looking to sell your Audemars Piguet, we are always buying. Our team stays on top of current market trends and offers competitive quotes that reflect real demand, not lowball numbers designed to maximize our margins. Whether you are selling a Royal Oak, an Offshore, or a vintage complication, we want to make sure you get top dollar for your timepiece.

The process is simple and secure. Start by requesting a free quote through our website, and our team will provide an offer based on the model, condition, and current market value of your Audemars Piguet. If you accept, we provide fully insured shipping so your watch is protected every step of the way. It is the safest and most transparent way to turn a luxury watch into cash, and most transactions are completed within days.