The best Rolex Submariner depends on the collector and what they’re looking for in a watch. The current ref. 126610LN is the gold standard, offering the latest technology and refined design. It’s perfect for daily wear. Ref. 14060 is the purists’ choice when it comes to an entry-level neo-vintage Submariner that holds value well. Really, the Submariner is more than just another dive watch. It’s laid the foundation for an entire sports watch category. One that Rolex continues to fine-tune more than 70 years later.
Key Takeaways:
- The Evolution: The shift from 40mm to 41mm cases brought refined lugs and the updated Caliber 3235 movement with 70-hour power reserve.
- Investment Value: The discontinued “Hulk” (Ref. 116610LV) has seen 30-40% appreciation since 2020, while vintage Big Crown models command six-figure premiums.
- The Date Debate: No-Date models offer perfect dial symmetry and come in 2mm shorter at 41mm versus 41mm, appealing to purists who value clean design.
- 2025/2026 Pricing: Current MSRP for the steel Submariner Date sits at $11,350, but grey market reality puts most models $2,000-$4,000 above retail.
Let’s explore the technical specifications, Submariner history, and every major reference from 1953 to the present, giving you the knowledge to make an informed purchase.
What Makes a Submariner a Submariner?
The Submariner is a success today because it continues to innovate. Every modern stainless steel Submariner uses 904L Oystersteel instead of the standard 316L steel. Also the Triplock screw-down crown creates 300 meters of water resistance by using three sealed zones between the case and the winding mechanism to seal the case. The Glidelock clasp, which is exclusive to Rolex, allows 20mm of micro-adjustment without tools. This feature is particularly practical for wearing the watch over a wetsuit or adjusting for temperature changes throughout the day.
The modern Submariner follows a formula that Rolex established decades ago but with meaningful upgrades. Compare the current Ref. 126610 against the vintage standard Ref. 5513, and you’ll see how the platform evolved while maintaining its core identity.
| Specification | Modern Standard (Ref. 126610) | Vintage Standard (Ref. 5513) |
| Water Resistance | 300m (1,000 ft) | 200m (660 ft) |
| Movement | Cal. 3235 (70-hour reserve) | Cal. 1520 (42-hour reserve) |
| Crystal | Sapphire with Cyclops | Acrylic (Plexiglass) |
| Case Size | 41mm | 40mm |
| Bezel | Ceramic (Cerachrom) | Aluminum Insert |
Rolex Submariner (No-Date) Reference Guide
The No-Date Submariner represents the watch in its purest form. Without the date complication, the dial achieves perfect symmetry, and the absence of the Cyclops lens maintains the clean profile that defined the original tool watch. These models typically trade at a discount to their Date counterparts but have developed their own collector following for these exact reasons.
The Originals (Ref. 6204, 6205, 6200)
The first Submariners from 1953-1954 featured oversized 8mm crowns without crown guards (reference 6200), earning them the “Rolex Submariner Big Crown” nickname among collectors. These early references used the A.260 movement, borrowed from Rolex’s dress watch line, and featured 100-meter water resistance. Production numbers were extremely limited. Clean examples now sell for $100,000 to $400,000 depending on dial condition and provenance.
The Collector’s Choice (Ref. 5513 & 5512)
Reference 5513 ran from 1962 to 1989, making it the longest-produced Submariner in history. Early examples featured gilt (gold-colored) printing and glossy dials, while later versions switched to matte dials with white gold surrounds on the hour markers. The Rolex 5512 was nearly identical but included a chronometer rated movement. Both references represent the era when Rolex tool watches were actually used as tools, leading to a scarcity of original, unpolished examples. Expect to pay $16,500-$35,000 for a 5513 in decent condition, with gilt dial examples commanding $40,000 or more.
The Neo-Vintage Entry (Ref. 14060 & 14060M)
Produced from 1990 to 2010, the Rolex 14060 bridges vintage charm and modern reliability. Early versions retained the drilled lug holes that Rolex eliminated in the mid-2000s, and the aluminum bezel insert maintains that vintage aesthetic without the fragility of older acrylic crystals. The “M” suffix, introduced in 1999, indicated the upgraded movement with a new hairspring and better shock resistance. These references represent the most accessible entry into Submariner ownership, typically trading between $11,300 and $13,000. The 14060M offers better long-term serviceability due to parts availability.
The Modern 41mm (Ref. 124060)
The current No-Date Submariner launched in 2020 with the updated 41mm case and Caliber 3230 movement. The wider lugs on the Rolex 124060 were refined from the previous “Super Case” design, creating better proportions on smaller wrists. The 70-hour power reserve means the watch runs through an entire weekend without winding. This stylish dive watch trades for $14,000-$16,000 on the pre-owned market.
Rolex Submariner Date Reference Guide
The Rolex Submariner date function adds 2mm to the case thickness and places a magnifying Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o’clock. This practical complication divides collectors, with purists preferring the clean dial and everyday wearers valuing the utility.
The First Date (Ref. 1680)
Reference 1680, produced from 1969 to 1980, introduced the date complication to the Submariner line. Early examples featured red “Submariner” text on the dial, making them highly sought by collectors. As mentioned in our Red Submariner 1680 review, the model number represents one of the most significant transitions in Submariner history. These Rolex 1680 watches originally sold for under $500 but now trade for $10,500 to $35,000 depending on dial configuration and condition. The shift to white text happened around 1974, and while white dial versions are more common, they still command strong prices.
The Aluminum Era (Ref. 16800 & 16610)
The Rolex 16800, produced from 1979 to 1988, was the first Submariner Date with sapphire crystal and 300-meter water resistance and pre-owned market prices can be found around $10,500 to $15,000. Its brief production run makes it less common than the 16610 that followed. The Rolex 16610 dominated from 1988 to 2010, becoming the most recognizable modern Submariner. The aluminum bezel insert fades over time, creating a desirable “vintage patina” that some buyers specifically seek. Clean examples of the 16610 trade for $12,000 to $15,500.
The Super Case Era (Ref. 116610)
Introduced in 2010, the Rolex 116610 brought the ceramic Cerachrom bezel and “Maxi Dial” with larger hour markers and hands. The case lugs grew thicker, giving the watch a more substantial presence but dividing opinions among long-time collectors. The Cal. 3135 movement included Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring, improving shock and magnetic resistance. This reference remained in production until 2020 and represents the most common modern pre-owned option. Current market pricing sits at $12,000 to $22,000.
The Current Generation (Ref. 126610)
The 2020 update on this Rolex 126610 refined the Super Case proportions with slimmer lugs and a slightly wider bracelet. Plus, it grew from 40mm to 41mm. The Cal. 3235 movement brought the 70-hour power reserve and improved precision. Small details like the reshaped crown guards and updated bracelet clasp show Rolex’s commitment to continuous refinement.
Submariner Nicknames & Colors
The Submariner’s color variants earned Rolex nicknames that have become part of watch collecting culture. These terms help quickly identify specific references in discussions and online listings, though some names vary by region or collecting community.
| Nickname | Reference Number(s) | Key Feature | Rarity |
| Hulk | 116610LV | Green dial and green bezel | Discontinued 2020 |
| Starbucks/Cermit | 126610LV | Black dial, green bezel | Current production |
| Kermit | 16610LV | Black dial, green bezel (aluminum) | Discontinued 2010 |
| Smurf | 116619LB | White gold case, blue dial/bezel | Precious metal premium |
| Cookie Monster | 126619LB | White gold case, blue dial/bezel | Current production |
| Bluesy | 116613LB, 126613LB | Rolesor (steel/gold), blue dial/bezel | Two-tone format |
Technical Buying Factors
Understanding the materials, movements, and design details helps you choose the right Submariner for your needs and budget. These technical factors directly impact both the ownership experience and long-term value.
Steel vs. Gold vs. Rolesor (Two-Tone)
Stainless steel Submariners hold value best due to higher demand and lower entry prices. The 904L Oystersteel used since the 1980s resists corrosion better than standard 316L steel, maintaining its finish through years of wear. Yellow gold models like the Ref. 126618LN continue to carry with them a certain level of prestige, positioning them as pure luxury pieces rather than tool watches. The weight alone, nearly double that of steel, creates a different wearing experience. Rolesor models split the difference offering gold accents on the bezel, crown, and center links while keeping the steel case.
Bezel Evolution
Aluminum bezels on vintage and neo-vintage Submariners develop character through fading and scratches, creating a patina that collectors value. The inserts can be replaced during service, but many owners prefer to keep original bezels for authenticity. Ceramic Cerachrom bezels, introduced in 2010, resist scratching and fading, maintaining their appearance indefinitely. The platinum-coated numerals won’t fade like the painted aluminum versions. This durability makes ceramic the practical choice, though some buyers miss the vintage aesthetic of aluminum.
The Clasp
When examining Rolex clasps there are two variations that have been used by the brand. The Oysterlock clasp provides security through a folding mechanism that prevents accidental opening. The Glidelock extension system, standard since 2010, allows adjustment in 2mm increments up to 20mm without removing the bracelet. Earlier models used a simpler fliplock extension with only one position. The Glidelock represents one of those small features that dramatically improves daily comfort, letting you adjust for temperature changes or fit the watch over clothing.
How to Buy Your First Submariner
Purchasing a Submariner requires understanding the market dynamics that create the gap between retail and reality. Your strategy depends on whether you prioritize cost savings or immediate ownership.
- The Authorized Dealer Approach: Building a relationship with an authorized Rolex retailer remains the only way to purchase at MSRP. Most dealers maintain unofficial lists and prioritize customers with purchase history. Starting with less-desired models like an expensive gold watch that isn’t selling well for an AD might help improve your standing. Timeline expectations range from 6 months to over 4 years depending on the specific reference and your location. Some buyers may receive the call.
- Pre-Owned Market Purchase: Established pre-owned Rolex dealers like Bob’s Watches offer immediate availability. You’ll pay current market value and skip the waiting list entirely. Bob’s also provides authentication services and warranties.
- Authentication Basics: Verify the watch through multiple indicators. The movement should beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour, creating a smooth sweep. The Cyclops lens on Date models magnifies 2.5 times, making the date fill the window. Check for the laser-etched crown at 6 o’clock on the crystal, visible at an angle. Serial numbers on modern Submariners appear on the inner rehaut at 6 o’clock. Weight should feel substantial due to the solid steel construction. When buying pre-owned, insist on a recent service history or factor service costs into your budget.
- Box and Papers: Original boxes and warranty papers add value to resale but don’t affect the watch’s functionality. If choosing between a watch with papers at a premium or without papers at a discount, factor in your long-term plans. Collectors buying for enjoyment rather than investment might prioritize condition over documentation.
